
us amps tube amp
- Thunderdome
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 4:19 pm
- Location: Ont.
us amps tube amp
anyone know anythiing about this amp, US Amps AX-TU 300C Tube amp......tubes in a car
I would think this would run pretty hot sorry bout the pic only one I had

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Remember: The chart serves only as a starting point. Ultimately you must use your ears as a guide.
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Remember: The chart serves only as a starting point. Ultimately you must use your ears as a guide.
- Thunderdome
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 4:19 pm
- Location: Ont.
this is true and how do they deal with all the heat a couple tubes gives off? I am tempted to pick it up just to check it out, just wondering if anyone had used one or new something about itBfowler wrote:it would seem to me that not only is the vibrations a hazards place for a tube. but any sonic details you are gaining from a tube amp would be lost in a car environment
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Remember: The chart serves only as a starting point. Ultimately you must use your ears as a guide.
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Remember: The chart serves only as a starting point. Ultimately you must use your ears as a guide.
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- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
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those are only input stage tubes.... 12ax7's or thereabouts.
I had two different tube amps by them (US AMPS)
the AX-TU4360 (NO Xover) the best tuber (and amp for that matter) i had ever heard...
AND the AX-TU1000 for the sub duty- and they really fucking rocked.
Their not tube driven, although greg @ USAMPS will state to the contrary... BUT they are (those are) only input stage tubes (known as 12ax7's or a variance thereof) and no way around that- they are not driver tubes (or whatever they are called klike you would see in the Other Audiophile Tube Amps- think those are 6LX's or something- sure there are many driver tubnes out there, but 12ax7's are input stage
and in fact IIRC they did not get hot what-so-ever, maybe a lil warm to touch, but not like a tube driver
The AX-TU4360C is the same amp as the AX-TU4360, but w/ xover- and there is/was no comparison...
I sold the 4360, for good money, then p/u'ed the 4360C thinking i would ahead of the game BUT BOY WAS I WRONG>
If i could ever find the 4360 again... or even like the 600 or the 300 you shared above- i might/could/would be on fence about swapping out my gear to using the 4360 or 600 for front stage.
It was the most warmest/ most full sounding front stage i had ever heard- havent heard much in my time of good SQ... BUT i mean i could hear Bill Withers breathing between versus, Michael Jackson Jerry curl rubbing/jingling on his shoulders- I mean beautiful. BUT Got into PG after the fall out of having the 4360C, and said that's pretty damn close enough for me! BUT the 4360, 300, or 600 tubers are very nice SQ sounding amps.. I must say!
I had two different tube amps by them (US AMPS)
the AX-TU4360 (NO Xover) the best tuber (and amp for that matter) i had ever heard...
AND the AX-TU1000 for the sub duty- and they really fucking rocked.
Their not tube driven, although greg @ USAMPS will state to the contrary... BUT they are (those are) only input stage tubes (known as 12ax7's or a variance thereof) and no way around that- they are not driver tubes (or whatever they are called klike you would see in the Other Audiophile Tube Amps- think those are 6LX's or something- sure there are many driver tubnes out there, but 12ax7's are input stage
and in fact IIRC they did not get hot what-so-ever, maybe a lil warm to touch, but not like a tube driver
The AX-TU4360C is the same amp as the AX-TU4360, but w/ xover- and there is/was no comparison...
I sold the 4360, for good money, then p/u'ed the 4360C thinking i would ahead of the game BUT BOY WAS I WRONG>
If i could ever find the 4360 again... or even like the 600 or the 300 you shared above- i might/could/would be on fence about swapping out my gear to using the 4360 or 600 for front stage.
It was the most warmest/ most full sounding front stage i had ever heard- havent heard much in my time of good SQ... BUT i mean i could hear Bill Withers breathing between versus, Michael Jackson Jerry curl rubbing/jingling on his shoulders- I mean beautiful. BUT Got into PG after the fall out of having the 4360C, and said that's pretty damn close enough for me! BUT the 4360, 300, or 600 tubers are very nice SQ sounding amps.. I must say!
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- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
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but wouldn't there be ( i think there is) some merit to the fact/point/idea of: Cars have also come a long way in suspension, handling, climate control, etc.. all around; and perhaps would be lot easier on them than 15/20 years ago? perhaps, enough to make it /them more viable- maybe, but maybe not i am not too too well versed on the the whole tube discussion, but i would think theres something to that....
AIK is that the 4360 i had was sounding FREE-KING SWEET! I mean real nice full warm sound - i wrote the guy i sold it to - think he was in malaysia (AND WAIT MIGHT HAVE BEEN WENG IN FACT-
) not sure... BUT wrote him like a year after i sold it and asked for it back for more than he paid and he declined....but said he would think of me when/if the time was to ever come about.
m
AIK is that the 4360 i had was sounding FREE-KING SWEET! I mean real nice full warm sound - i wrote the guy i sold it to - think he was in malaysia (AND WAIT MIGHT HAVE BEEN WENG IN FACT-

m
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I have just bought a pair of TRU tech tube amps, got one and the other is in shipping now. One of them is a C-7.2AT all tube amp, pure class A, 2x13W, the other is a C7.2T, hybrid with tube pre-stage and transistor output stage. Going to use one for tweeters and one for midranges (Focal audiom), sure hope this won't suck 





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- Itchy Tomato
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This car is from the Tru website, its their old democar. I drive a VW Lupo
I got the amps from the former Tru distributor in Norway, both NIB (well, the AT was tested a couple of hours indoors by a car audio mag doing a story on it).
I got the 7.2T about a week ago, the AT is in shipping now. They retailed for $6000 a piece here in 2005, I got both of them for a little over $2000 in total
Some pics of unboxing the C-7.2T:










And just had to break out the screwdriver and do a little digging


[/QUOTE]

I got the 7.2T about a week ago, the AT is in shipping now. They retailed for $6000 a piece here in 2005, I got both of them for a little over $2000 in total

Some pics of unboxing the C-7.2T:










And just had to break out the screwdriver and do a little digging




I did not notice this when I had the amp open, so I took of the lid again to inspect, and it seems the brown/copper coloured plastic coating has melted and run a bit, probably someone has been a little eager with the soldering iron on the other side of the board. Took another pic with a q-tip for size reference


ttocs wrote:tubes were used for a short time, and I think for a reason. A car is hard enough on solid state electronics let alone tubs.
Ran my older TU-300 (black florida heatsink) in my suzuki samurai for four years. Offroading in some of the toughest environments ,I can tell you this......samurai's are tough as nails ,ask anyone who has had one, and my US AMPS TU-300 didn't miss a beat. The samurai needed repair now and then where my Tube amp did not.
Today apox 6 years after buying it , it's now in my sq setup (4runner) and runs like a top. The only repair on it was the output transistors had to be replaced (by US Amps) due to some wanker who stole it from my Samurai and crossed the speaker terminals while stealing it. A day after it was lifted I found it at a local pawn shop and went in with the original box with matching serial numbers and asked what they were doing with my amp LOL. Needless to say I got my amp back and well the scum bag got his too.
Anyways ,I find their SQ to be sweet and as close to nirvana for the $$$ as you can get.Their not Millbert's ,Tru Copper 7.2AT's or Zelos but then again their not $2500.00 Plus either.
All and all id take a newer ax-tu model over the older stuff as I've heard both and both Rock Hard, SQ wise their the same other than the newer AX line has a few more Watts per channel than its predecessor. Which I happen to like.
AX-TU 4360C
AX-TU 300C
TU-300 (older black heatsink)
And possibly comming soon AX-TU 1000C
- mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
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^ very simliar set up i had once
AXTU-1000C
AX-TU4360 (no xover)
Like the 4360 w/o xover better- at that time i ran the USX3 and that was one of the best sounding xovers i had ever heard even till this day.
Think i am repeating myself though here... BUT yes, the hybrid tubers from US amps back in the day (IMO) were/are better than the newer ones w/ xovers...BUT having the xovers built in is nice feature... BUT i'm one of those guys that, the better part of me, thinks/feels that an amp should amplify and thats it. I know that there are exceptions to that- like the ZX's and TRU's, brax, etc.. that have robust Xovers in them... BUT was always pretty much a fan of amp's amplify, xovers crossover, etc... and whatnot
AXTU-1000C
AX-TU4360 (no xover)
Like the 4360 w/o xover better- at that time i ran the USX3 and that was one of the best sounding xovers i had ever heard even till this day.
Think i am repeating myself though here... BUT yes, the hybrid tubers from US amps back in the day (IMO) were/are better than the newer ones w/ xovers...BUT having the xovers built in is nice feature... BUT i'm one of those guys that, the better part of me, thinks/feels that an amp should amplify and thats it. I know that there are exceptions to that- like the ZX's and TRU's, brax, etc.. that have robust Xovers in them... BUT was always pretty much a fan of amp's amplify, xovers crossover, etc... and whatnot
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- Thunderdome
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 4:19 pm
- Location: Ont.
Hey welcome aboard Chris nice to see you drop bysands1 wrote:ttocs wrote:tubes were used for a short time, and I think for a reason. A car is hard enough on solid state electronics let alone tubs.
Ran my older TU-300 (black florida heatsink) in my suzuki samurai for four years. Offroading in some of the toughest environments ,I can tell you this......samurai's are tough as nails ,ask anyone who has had one, and my US AMPS TU-300 didn't miss a beat. The samurai needed repair now and then where my Tube amp did not.
Today apox 6 years after buying it , it's now in my sq setup (4runner) and runs like a top. The only repair on it was the output transistors had to be replaced (by US Amps) due to some wanker who stole it from my Samurai and crossed the speaker terminals while stealing it. A day after it was lifted I found it at a local pawn shop and went in with the original box with matching serial numbers and asked what they were doing with my amp LOL. Needless to say I got my amp back and well the scum bag got his too.
Anyways ,I find their SQ to be sweet and as close to nirvana for the $$$ as you can get.Their not Millbert's ,Tru Copper 7.2AT's or Zelos but then again their not $2500.00 Plus either.
All and all id take a newer ax-tu model over the older stuff as I've heard both and both Rock Hard, SQ wise their the same other than the newer AX line has a few more Watts per channel than its predecessor. Which I happen to like.
AX-TU 4360C
AX-TU 300C
TU-300 (older black heatsink)
And possibly comming soon AX-TU 1000C

-
-
-
Remember: The chart serves only as a starting point. Ultimately you must use your ears as a guide.
-
-
Remember: The chart serves only as a starting point. Ultimately you must use your ears as a guide.
I hear what your saying mhyde and I would agree to some extent.
And by the way can you give me your opinion on your AX-TU1000C, Id really like to hear your account of the amp as I may be going in that direction soon.
Less is sometimes more, but I just don't understand where you have a fully defeatable crossover by setting to full on the amp and then that signal isn't really modified at all ,what would be the difference?
I've even read people saying that adding something like a Tru line driver to a rca chain, when not needed (4volts already),would/can muddy the signal. I just can't see it though. Quality built parts and the engineering that goes into them, its not the same as degrading the signal quality with some cheapo snake oil type thing or having a loud button on a deadhead.
And by the way can you give me your opinion on your AX-TU1000C, Id really like to hear your account of the amp as I may be going in that direction soon.
Less is sometimes more, but I just don't understand where you have a fully defeatable crossover by setting to full on the amp and then that signal isn't really modified at all ,what would be the difference?
I've even read people saying that adding something like a Tru line driver to a rca chain, when not needed (4volts already),would/can muddy the signal. I just can't see it though. Quality built parts and the engineering that goes into them, its not the same as degrading the signal quality with some cheapo snake oil type thing or having a loud button on a deadhead.
Thunderdome wrote:Hey welcome aboard Chris nice to see you drop bysands1 wrote:ttocs wrote:tubes were used for a short time, and I think for a reason. A car is hard enough on solid state electronics let alone tubs.
Ran my older TU-300 (black florida heatsink) in my suzuki samurai for four years. Offroading in some of the toughest environments ,I can tell you this......samurai's are tough as nails ,ask anyone who has had one, and my US AMPS TU-300 didn't miss a beat. The samurai needed repair now and then where my Tube amp did not.
Today apox 6 years after buying it , it's now in my sq setup (4runner) and runs like a top. The only repair on it was the output transistors had to be replaced (by US Amps) due to some wanker who stole it from my Samurai and crossed the speaker terminals while stealing it. A day after it was lifted I found it at a local pawn shop and went in with the original box with matching serial numbers and asked what they were doing with my amp LOL. Needless to say I got my amp back and well the scum bag got his too.
Anyways ,I find their SQ to be sweet and as close to nirvana for the $$$ as you can get.Their not Millbert's ,Tru Copper 7.2AT's or Zelos but then again their not $2500.00 Plus either.
All and all id take a newer ax-tu model over the older stuff as I've heard both and both Rock Hard, SQ wise their the same other than the newer AX line has a few more Watts per channel than its predecessor. Which I happen to like.
AX-TU 4360C
AX-TU 300C
TU-300 (older black heatsink)
And possibly comming soon AX-TU 1000C
Thanks for the invite Tim, this is a pretty kickin board, great stuff here.
