here's one for you guys/guru's

Post by **mhyde71** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:27 pm

okay so here's one for you...
watch video (me in my install trying to tie in the pcore15...)

NOW once i got past the video, and got core tied in:
1) Why is it that when i hooked up the pcore i did NOT get a spark of any size/amount? This is the pcore that we bought the new modules for and i installed and all that- so why no spark...

2) Now that it is hooked up, 2a) 1 i have much more engine/alternator whine- WHATS THAT ABOUT??? 2b) AND now on the remote TI-display- i only get/show/reading 12.6-12.8 volts- whereas the other two volt meters in car are reading 13.8-14.4. Whats that about??

More info= i left the batcap 800 in there connected to the d-blocks.

HoseHead · Post by **HoseHead** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:59 pm

Gotta drawing?

HH

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 3:49 pm

HoseHead wrote:Gotta drawing?

HH

x2 that made no sense to me at all

Try connecting and disconnecting the remote wire on the powercore to see what happens.

Post by **mhyde71** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:34 pm

okay here it is- as cruse as it is... but hopefully you can interrupt it.
this is what i have now, now that the pc is tied in.

the scenerio i had last night is was same thing, but the + from optima was the wire in my hand that i was connecting/disconnecting to the power d-block and it was turning everything on, when i REMOVED it from the d-block... when i connected it to the d-block it would shut things down- just the way they should have been- key was out of ignition...

AND AND AND i think perhaps a bigger concern/issue is the fact I 1) got no spark whatsoever when connected the pc15 up to juice. In every time/case i have ever done that before i always got some kind of "spark"-
2 the voltage difference now between the ti-remote display and the two other voltage meters in the car (HU and from Cig lighter on radar detector)

Post by **Jacampb2** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:12 am

Well, I can't make any sense of your drawing, but I can help with this, the PC is relay isolated, until the remote is powered, the cap is not in circuit. That's why no spark when you hooked it up. If you had powered the remote lead, and then applied power you would have had a hell of an arc while it charged.

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:34 am

Jacampb2 wrote:Well, I can't make any sense of your drawing, but I can help with this, the PC is relay isolated, until the remote is powered, the cap is not in circuit. That's why no spark when you hooked it up. If you had powered the remote lead, and then applied power you would have had a hell of an arc while it charged.

Yeah sorry for the crude drawing (at best)- i could do something a little better but at that time my son was all over me and was making it difficult....

should that have been the way i should have hooked it up??? i did remote and ground for remote last... the 0g G + P went in first and in that order....

how to know/tell whether or not the cap is capacitizing (working)??
I find it weird that ever since i hooked it up, i have not once seen the ti-remote display show more than 12.6V...? whereas before it would be in sync (or just about anyways) with the other two V-displays/meters in car...?
what is about that cap that is causing it to only adminster 12.6 (aprx) volts now back there from the power d-block?

Post by **stipud** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:05 am

Something in your system is putting power on a remote wire when you disconnect your battery. Since it only started happening when you installed the cap, I would assume that's the culprit.

Unhook the remote wire going into your cap and put a multimeter at the remote terminal, then connect and disconnect your battery. See if there's still voltage at the terminal. If not, check on the remote wire itself, and trace that back until you find the source.

When you installed the new cap did you do anything differently? What did you do with the little wire that came out of it?

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:40 am

stipud wrote:Something in your system is putting power on a remote wire when you disconnect your battery. Since it only started happening when you installed the cap, I would assume that's the culprit.

Unhook the remote wire going into your cap and put a multimeter at the remote terminal, then connect and disconnect your battery. See if there's still voltage at the terminal. If not, check on the remote wire itself, and trace that back until you find the source.

When you installed the new cap did you do anything differently? What did you do with the little wire that came out of it?

well in theory that sounds maybe right...BUT the cap wasnt fully/completely hooked up when this was going on... only thing to the cap was the ground from the chassis. But thats what is puzzeling to me...IS how could something or where would be something tripping power to the remote when i remove the power from battery from the d-block...? wouldnt it also be tripping the remote with the power to the bloock regardless - know what i mean?

it's awfully weird. BUT i can/will try again (when i have time) maybe this wknd, and remove cap completely and see what happens...but i just dont get how removing the power from d-block why it would fire things up- i would think that the juice going to remote when i remove the power wire would also be there when the power wire is connected just the same?

huh?!

Post by **kg1961** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:00 am

Matt watched the video last night and read what Tom has said
that is weird
has anyone else tried the new caps sinces you got them maybe theres a problem or a resistor or something needed to make these work in the pg one's
soyy man best of luck

Post by **stipud** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:11 am

I have no idea what's going on but just troubleshoot it. Make the problem happen and keep disconnecting items one at a time down the chain until you find what's causing the issue.

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:17 am

stipud wrote:I have no idea what's going on but just troubleshoot it. Make the problem happen and keep disconnecting items one at a time down the chain until you find what's causing the issue.

yeah will do... when/if i get it figured i'll post up...
Not sure if i will have time this weekend, i have to get caught up on something in the shop, and get lots of coating work prepared for a couple of guys.

AND BITCH- it is like 0* out, and my heat aint all that great at the shop...

BUT i will pinn it down... just awfully puzzling

Post by **kg1961** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 12:44 pm

did you have any time this week end to find out what is wrong?

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:36 pm

^^ havent had time since you posted that post mike ^^

I connected everything up and everything seems to be running okay

BUT havent had time to fool with it- too much work going on in shop lately/since

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:49 pm

in your drawing, it shows everything grounded to the battcap, but doesn't show any chassis ground. Where is all of this grounded at?

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:54 pm

see the word chassis in the middle of all that mess-

everything ties into the core, but then core to chassis

twisted · Post by **twisted** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:33 pm

is your power core getting 12v constant instead of remote from dd10? if so it could be powering the core. thats the way it appears in drawing.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 6:11 pm

just out of curiosity, do it agan and try measuring between the remote and the pos to see what the voltage is, as well as between the remote and ground. Is it possible that something is seeking a ground through the remote or something and causing a problem....

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:16 pm

twisted wrote:is your power core getting 12v constant instead of remote from dd10? if so it could be powering the core. thats the way it appears in drawing.

I will double check, but believe it is set up like this
the 12+ has constant direct from battery- AND the remote is running off the DD10's remote switch/es that runs the delayed turn off/on

TiEcs · Post by **TiEcs** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 12:26 am

ttocs wrote:Is it possible that something is seeking a ground through the remote or something and causing a problem....

Can it be that the screws used to fix component touch metal plate of the car. And takes its ground that way?

Post by **kg1961** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:49 am

so what was the problem matt?

here's one for you guys/guru's

here's one for you guys/guru's

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