Stupid rust................
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dobasjvolvo
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2010 12:03 pm
- Location: Sheboygan, Wi
Stupid rust................
Does anyone know what works on gettin rid of this stuff on the Ti series without ruining the finish on the amp?
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- stereo 005n.jpg (71.54 KiB) Viewed 3873 times
I've been trying to figure that out also.
I have been kicking around the idea of using CLR on a sponge.
I think it might be too harsh though.
I used it on some copper straps and it did take the gunk off but it also dulled the copper.
I was going to try to use it on a spot you wouldn't be able to see once installed.
Maybe the back or corner.
If you do find something that works well, Please post up.
I have been kicking around the idea of using CLR on a sponge.
I think it might be too harsh though.
I used it on some copper straps and it did take the gunk off but it also dulled the copper.
I was going to try to use it on a spot you wouldn't be able to see once installed.
Maybe the back or corner.
If you do find something that works well, Please post up.
Kenwood H/U
Elite 961
Elite 61
2X Xmax 15"
2X Ti elite 12D
2X Ti 600.2
Ti 1000.2
Ti 800.1
2X Ti1200.1
Elite 961
Elite 61
2X Xmax 15"
2X Ti elite 12D
2X Ti 600.2
Ti 1000.2
Ti 800.1
2X Ti1200.1
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dobasjvolvo
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2010 12:03 pm
- Location: Sheboygan, Wi
Ya I had a little on my Ti1200.1 and it came off right away with steel wool pad but it was by the mounting screw holes so its not that noticeable but it messed up the brushed finish look a little but its to small to notice. This is my friends Ti1200.1 that im taking since he had 2 i'll have better luck selling the other one since this thing is All like this picture, its gonna be upside down on a rack so you wont see it but still bothers me and i wish i could clean it up.......
getting the lid shot blasted will get it off..
but seriously, the rust is under the laquer so there's not a lot you can do about it!
but seriously, the rust is under the laquer so there's not a lot you can do about it!
Ti1 headunit (unique)
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
Outlaw in crate.
2x original shrouded ms2250's.
Route 66 in box + custom m100 to match.
Roadster 66 in flight case
Octane LE in box.
Reactor #186 in flight case.
Reactor EQ232
Ti400.2 AL
AX204A + EQ232 + ZPX2 + TBA set
ZCS6 component set
Tantrum+Titanium bass cubes
Ti12d Elite sub
DD5 + DD10 + 6 Ti blocks!
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mhyde71
- Dr. Jekyll
- Posts: 6231
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:34 pm
- Location: PG FanBoy in Green Mtn Vermont
- Contact:
Rustoleum puts out a rust remover product that i have had good experience with- comes in small lil bottle w/ a lil scrubby pad included. I have not tried it on the rusty looking Ti stuff yet- dont/didnt have any when i was working with that stuff about year ago- havent had any since i got the sand blaster in the shop...
BUT anywho- YEAH that works well- but will rust return in short order if not then coated or protected with something.
It is my belief that the Ti gear is simply brushed steel with a single stage clear powder coat over it- not anything more- i.e. not two or three coats- hence that the reason these rust up so quick and easy...
If they get stripped like in an acid bath (which is what I use in shop)- it is conceivable that it could stripped and simply de-grease and coated over
- BUT that isnt really how it should be done- any piece previously coated should always get stripped (yes), but also blasted- therefore ruining the brushed steel look- BUT once blasted run some 400G sand paper and just do straight forward motions covering the piece in its complete form to get a brushed look to it- THEN re-coat it
PROBLEM IS: the artwork!-(which is last to go on Dan/GBODY), obviously once you have done all this- you are now lacking the artwork--- thats been my hold up with getting these things "FULLY" restored, while electronics and coating work is relatively simple for me now (thanks eric) once the artwork comes into play we'll be doing big things!
The silk-screening, Dan, is last to go on- and i had considered maybe being able to do touch ups on Ti pieces for people- i.e. spots on side or whatever that have spider-webbed out with rust- i had thought maybe of trying to do some spot work- BUT not so sure how well the ink would hold up to the cure schedule in oven...? maybe I will have to just give it a try- I think i have a rusty 475 in the shop- I could try to do some spot re-finishing and maybe be able to keep artwork on there- perhaps in next week or so i could do that and see how it goes
ONE THING too while we're on it-
I had always thought that these Ti pieces need to be cathodically protected in some fashion- whether an impressed Cathodic Protection (CP) or just regular CP system- BUT had always thought/considered that to be a possibility of protecting the chassis of these Ti pieces... BUT to take it a step further- WHY NOT have the entire car cathodically protected...? think there are some or there are company's that do similar type protocols, but IT WOULD BE NEAT to never have to worry about rust on your car or electronic gear-
I used to work for Tanknology, Inc. and we sold CP for UST (underground storage tank) owners. AND had always thought of applying that to "my" world or applications relating to my needs & wants... but never put it together
BUT all this, and what I am leading up to, doest help in your case where the rust is already present- BUT more so if you have a new piece w/ NO rust and would like to keep it that way... AND brings me to the idea/suggestion of maybe running a CP system somehow (which might be pretty easy with DC in the car as it is), to the car or electronics gear- MY MAJOR CONCERN would be shorting out somewhere/somehow with a charge being applied to the chassis/covers to the pieces- they would have to be completely isolated from any devices/components/etc that have or carry any other type of charge. (see pic's of what a CP system looks like- pertaining to a UST)
BUT anywho- YEAH that works well- but will rust return in short order if not then coated or protected with something.
It is my belief that the Ti gear is simply brushed steel with a single stage clear powder coat over it- not anything more- i.e. not two or three coats- hence that the reason these rust up so quick and easy...
If they get stripped like in an acid bath (which is what I use in shop)- it is conceivable that it could stripped and simply de-grease and coated over
- BUT that isnt really how it should be done- any piece previously coated should always get stripped (yes), but also blasted- therefore ruining the brushed steel look- BUT once blasted run some 400G sand paper and just do straight forward motions covering the piece in its complete form to get a brushed look to it- THEN re-coat it
PROBLEM IS: the artwork!-(which is last to go on Dan/GBODY), obviously once you have done all this- you are now lacking the artwork--- thats been my hold up with getting these things "FULLY" restored, while electronics and coating work is relatively simple for me now (thanks eric) once the artwork comes into play we'll be doing big things!
The silk-screening, Dan, is last to go on- and i had considered maybe being able to do touch ups on Ti pieces for people- i.e. spots on side or whatever that have spider-webbed out with rust- i had thought maybe of trying to do some spot work- BUT not so sure how well the ink would hold up to the cure schedule in oven...? maybe I will have to just give it a try- I think i have a rusty 475 in the shop- I could try to do some spot re-finishing and maybe be able to keep artwork on there- perhaps in next week or so i could do that and see how it goes
ONE THING too while we're on it-
I had always thought that these Ti pieces need to be cathodically protected in some fashion- whether an impressed Cathodic Protection (CP) or just regular CP system- BUT had always thought/considered that to be a possibility of protecting the chassis of these Ti pieces... BUT to take it a step further- WHY NOT have the entire car cathodically protected...? think there are some or there are company's that do similar type protocols, but IT WOULD BE NEAT to never have to worry about rust on your car or electronic gear-
I used to work for Tanknology, Inc. and we sold CP for UST (underground storage tank) owners. AND had always thought of applying that to "my" world or applications relating to my needs & wants... but never put it together
BUT all this, and what I am leading up to, doest help in your case where the rust is already present- BUT more so if you have a new piece w/ NO rust and would like to keep it that way... AND brings me to the idea/suggestion of maybe running a CP system somehow (which might be pretty easy with DC in the car as it is), to the car or electronics gear- MY MAJOR CONCERN would be shorting out somewhere/somehow with a charge being applied to the chassis/covers to the pieces- they would have to be completely isolated from any devices/components/etc that have or carry any other type of charge. (see pic's of what a CP system looks like- pertaining to a UST)
- Attachments
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- cathodic_protection.jpg (17.8 KiB) Viewed 3801 times
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