do people use Speaker Baffles with there components?

KillerX · Post by **KillerX** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 6:13 am

I have never used them, but considering I get my car oils every year im sure its not gonna be good for the speakers, but a bigger issue then that, is the speakers gonna sound better or worse with them on?

Post by **Bfowler** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 8:23 am

i've always liked the way they made the speakers sound. they help isolate the back wave for better midbass. plus they aren't all the way air tight after you poke a hole for speaker wire, so they shouldn't be compressing and acting like a passive radiator.

Disarmer · Post by **Disarmer** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:27 pm

Agree with BFowler. I've got a set of the XTC ones on my RSD6.5cs and I love the way they sound

gridracer · Post by **gridracer** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:36 pm

I will be putting the XTC foam bafffles in my doors for my RSD65cs

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:38 pm

the foam baffles are for nothing more then to keep the speaker dry. I attempted to use them a couple of times on the request of customers but they are made for really really small speakers and would never fit.

I use enclosures on my componants woofers and like the results they give.

gridracer · Post by **gridracer** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:40 am

ttocs wrote:the foam baffles are for nothing more then to keep the speaker dry. I attempted to use them a couple of times on the request of customers but they are made for really really small speakers and would never fit.

I use enclosures on my componants woofers and like the results they give.

I should have added the biggest reason I will use them is to keep speaker dry my stock speakers have a little plastic visor on them now to stay dry.

12voltjunky · Post by **12voltjunky** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 3:42 pm

ttocs wrote: I use enclosures on my componants woofers and like the results they give.

are there any tutorials on building enlosures for the components woofer?
i would like to learn more about this. i have built many sub enclosures and have heard of people using enclosures in their doors but have not tried it myself.

holmis · Post by **holmis** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 3:48 pm

you can do it the same way you do kick panels.....

http://phoenixphorum.com/how-to-build-k ... vt287.html

Post by **ttocs** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:39 pm

never seen anything about how to do it, just heard about it. I used some stiff tupperware that I reinforced with sound dampin material. They make them in almost every size/shape, they are airtight and stiff enough for componant woofers. I can see what pics I have of mine but it is not as hard as you might think.

12voltjunky · Post by **12voltjunky** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 6:49 pm

^ damn, never thought of using tupperware

...would love to see pics. man, that's uber clever!!!

12voltjunky · Post by **12voltjunky** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 6:52 pm

ttocs wrote:never seen anything about how to do it, just heard about it. I used some stiff tupperware that I reinforced with sound dampin material. They make them in almost every size/shape, they are airtight and stiff enough for componant woofers. I can see what pics I have of mine but it is not as hard as you might think.

how do you determine which size tupperware?
do you go by airspace requirements, and if so, how do you determine the airspace requirements for a 6.5"??

or do you look and "see" what will fit in the door?

ZTwenty8SSR · Post by **ZTwenty8SSR** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 5:37 pm

12voltjunky wrote:
ttocs wrote:never seen anything about how to do it, just heard about it. I used some stiff tupperware that I reinforced with sound dampin material. They make them in almost every size/shape, they are airtight and stiff enough for componant woofers. I can see what pics I have of mine but it is not as hard as you might think.
how do you determine which size tupperware?
do you go by airspace requirements, and if so, how do you determine the airspace requirements for a 6.5"??

or do you look and "see" what will fit in the door?

I was thinking the same thing.

Post by **ttocs** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:42 pm

it is a mix of the two. Of course the tupperware has its volume listed right on the label although it might need converting into Cu ft. I can't remember what I used in my mustang but it was close to the recomended(which took some digging).

I have been considering using two pieces of the tupperware as a mold to make a full glass enclosures that would suffer from NONE of the flexing issues that the tupperware does but it really is not a big deal. The only part of it that will flex is the flat bottom part and by stiffening it up with the damplifier pro it didn't flex at all.

You will need to find 5.25 or 6.5 foam speaker gaskets as well which can take some digging.

ZTwenty8SSR · Post by **ZTwenty8SSR** » Thu Aug 19, 2010 5:58 pm

What is the proper size enclosure for the RSD65cs.

gridracer · Post by **gridracer** » Thu Aug 19, 2010 6:27 pm

ZTwenty8SSR wrote:What is the proper size enclosure for the RSD65cs.

not sure off hand but the thiele small parameters are in the manual that comes with the speakers. so you can just enter the proper values into winisd and it should calculate the proper size enclosure.

marko · Post by **marko** » Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:36 pm

most 6" midbass drivers are designed to work IB, ie- ina door or vented in the A pillars, stuffing them in a tupperware bowl won't do them any favours.. unless your going AP (not a bad idea).

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:42 pm

I have always wanted to try AP as it would not be hard to cut the flat bottom on it and mount the membrain from the inside.....

dedlyjedly · Post by **dedlyjedly** » Fri Aug 20, 2010 12:32 am

marko wrote:most 6" midbass drivers are designed to work IB, ie- ina door or vented in the A pillars, stuffing them in a tupperware bowl won't do them any favours.. unless your going AP (not a bad idea).

x2!!! And I think this advice is even more applicable to midrange drivers. A small sealed enclosure will only choke off the upper extension of your frequency response.

If you're using an XTC type baffle or tupperware as protection from moisture I would recommend cutting or drilling a hole on the bottom side of the "enclosure" that's big enough that it won't act as a port. Keeping it on the bottom side will also help to drain any excess moisture inside.

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Aug 20, 2010 12:58 am

it is easy enough to attach one to see if you like the change that it makes. I tried it on mine and liked the sound but when we tried it with a friends infinities it just made them sound worse as if its possible.. In that case we just removed the enclosure and then mounted it, but you will never know until you try.

dontlookatme · Post by **dontlookatme** » Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:27 am

whatever u do dont ever buy the hard plastic baffles. they dry out with heat. when they all shot out (around the same time) i thought i blew all my speakers because of that rattle they were making. ive used the foam ones before i felt like it gave me a little more mid range sound but they def didnt sound as loud

12voltjunky · Post by **12voltjunky** » Sun Aug 22, 2010 11:06 am

marko wrote:most 6" midbass drivers are designed to work IB, ie- ina door or vented in the A pillars, stuffing them in a tupperware bowl won't do them any favours.. unless your going AP (not a bad idea).

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is AP?
I just installed a set of the new Ti 6.5 comps and would like to do everything i can to maximize their sound. I am stoked so far with the performance. I used dynamat xtreme in the doors and am playing with the tuning as i just got them wired last night. My tweeters aren't permanently mounted yet as I am playing with locations (using velcro).
I prefer a very strong, punchy mid-bass but dont't have the resources for a 3 way setup. any suggestions?

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Aug 22, 2010 1:02 pm

aperiodic membrain(SP?) - you use something that allows some air to flow through but still offers some restricion like gauze, cotten, ect. IT requres tuning the membrain and enclosure which I have never been that clear on.