Ti 1000.2 install info help

FourFists · Post by **FourFists** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:19 am

I just picked up a ti1000.2 I also maybe picking up a ti500.4 to replace my kaption 4 channel that I'm currently using.
I've heard different things about how much power the ti1000.2 takes from the alternator between 80 to 150 amps my factory alternator is only 60 amps I need to know what's true and whats not.
How big of an alternator should I go running a ti1000.2 & a ti500.4 (I do like having my system blasting for long periods of time while I'm driving)
Whats the best way to hook up two alpine swr-1222D subs to this amp (it's the first time I've ever had dvc subs so kinda lost with the wiring cause there's so many ways and I don't want to damage the amp.
Does anyone know a link to the full owners manual for the ti1000.2

Thanks for any help.

Post by **Rold Gold** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:50 am

Before you install anything...............
Do the "Big 3" electrical upgrade. But I'd look into a 200amp alt if you can find one for your car and a deep-cell battery aswell....maybe 2.

gbody805 · Post by **gbody805** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:51 am

Welcome to the phorum.

Here is a link to the manual for the 1000.2

As for the other questions. I'm going to let some of the other guys chime in on those.
But I myself always thought of a bigger Alt. as one of the first changes to make.
You never know what you might get into when you start building a system.
Another first step would be to do a big 3 upgrade.
Just in case you've never heard that before, it is where you upgrade the power wires in the engine compartment.
0/1 ga wire is the norm.
You replace the wire from you Alt to the battery.
Replace the battery ground to the engine block.
Replace the chassis ground to the engine block.

Some of the others will be by soon to help with the other questions.
They will more then likely get into better detail.

Again Welcome man.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:54 am

The Ti1000.2 is a class A/B amp, if I recall correctly. Basically means it's less efficient than modern Class D sub amps and so it draws a lot of current.

The manual is available here:

http://download.phoenixphorum.com/Manua ... Manual.pdf

The recommended fuse size is 80A so if you're going to be running this amp alongside another amp such as the 500.4 I would certainly recommend an alternator upgrade along with the proper power wiring. You don't want to run a 1000.2 and 500.4 on an inferior charging system.

According to the manual, the amp makes 1000W at 4ohms bridged or 500W x 2 at 2ohms. With 2ohm DVC subs, you can't wire them bridged for 4ohm or stereo for 2ohm so it's not the best match. I don't know if the 1000.2 is considered stable at 2ohms bridged so someone else should probably chime in.

Post by **stipud** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 9:43 am

I reckon you can always change the alternator when the stock one burns out. Upgrade the big 3 first, run your setup for awhile and swap alternators later if need be. Alternators are soo expensive, and you would need the big 3 to support one anyways.

FourFists · Post by **FourFists** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:53 am

Thanks for the welcoming, the big 3 I was planning on doing first, the system is going into an Integra and the factory wires are way to thin.
I work for a pool company so we deal with a lot of electric motors and we have a guy that rewinds motors for us he said that he can help me out with rebuilding my alternator to the size that I want for a good price.
I'm using the alpine subs because they were new and stupid cheap but if change the subs what would be good for that amp ohms wise.
It would still be good to know the best way to hook up the ones that I have.

Also is that the only manual pdf for this amp that's the same one I keep finding.

gbody805 · Post by **gbody805** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 12:00 pm

That is the factory manual.

What were you looking for that it dosen't cover?

FourFists · Post by **FourFists** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 12:17 pm

I just thought that I would a little more then two pages.
I just like to read up on the little options that specific amps come with.

Stryker · Post by **Stryker** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 2:31 pm

Okay i'm gonna be upfront here

. your factory Alt will not be sufficent with the 1000.2 and a 500.4. You definately need a minimum of a 200 amp alt. if not more.
having your pal rewind a stock type alt for more amperage is great but it will not put out much at idle(like when your sittin at a light), and will most likely
Once you start running 1.5k+, electrical upgrades are a must, not an option. 0 ga wire, High amp Alt, big 3, deep cycle battery(s) I would run the 1000.2 bridged at 2ohm cause it can do it without a problem, but only if you are able to feed it the power it requires, it is a power hungry amp due to it being class A/B. That about covers it.
welcome aboard homie.

FourFists · Post by **FourFists** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:29 pm

I like upfront info, I didn't expect to have to go with 0 gauge I thought that 2 gauge would have been fine...but hay what do I know.
I have no problem doing it rite the first time so ill take my time if must be.
The alternator not doing what I need it to below 1500k that much I know, I'm not to worried about that because I really never drive my stereo hard at idle.
As for the battery's and needing multiple I thought that was only done for when the car is off with the system running to stop it from draining the main battery that start's the car, pretty much I have always been lead to believe that the alternator was the part doing all the work while the car is running.

At this point I'm starting to think that I mite end up running one w7 instead of 2 swr1222d's just to save some space.

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:57 pm

stipud wrote:I reckon you can always change the alternator when the stock one burns out. Upgrade the big 3 first, run your setup for awhile and swap alternators later if need be. Alternators are soo expensive, and you would need the big 3 to support one anyways.

This is the route I took and I just had to "upgrade" my alt when it failed about a month ago. My system killed my stock alt in about 6 months, that's what 1200 watts RMS will do to a 55amp alt

I knew it was going to happen, so I was paying attention and caught the alt before it really failed on me and left me stranded. My "upgraded" alt is only a 90amper, but just installing that guy has made a HUGE difference in my car. The lights don't really dim anymore and my voltage rarely drops. My old alt was 55amps, so almost doubling it made a big difference.

So with that being said, I would do the big 3, charge your battery, and then let it ride until something fails (either the battery or the alt), as it will, it's just a matter of time

As long as you are aware that it can and will fail and you can look out for the warning signs of something failing, you should be ok. I was at least...

If you are not cool with that much risk, then I would replace the battery and the alt now on top of doing the big 3, then you don't have to worry about it failing in the future. It all depends on how much money you want to spend now and if the risk is acceptable to you.

Welcome to the phorum!