Help hooking my PG Ti 600.2 to a single Alpine Type R!

[godisanatheist]

Ok so I have a PG ti 600.2 amp and a single 4ohm DVC Type R (rated 200-500rms). I initially connected this by bridging the PG amp to 4 ohms and to the sub in parallel giving it a 2 ohms load. The amp kept going into thermal mode and blew 2 60a fuses and a 80a fuse. I only then realized that it was pushing 1200 w RMS to the type r! (correct? I had gain almost 3/4 and bass boost slightly up too). So I then rewired sub in series giving it a 8ohm load. Now it isnt as loud and I really have to crank the gain and bass boost to get it loud. I understand its giving the sub 300 rms now? But now it isnt heating at all or blowing fuses.

So what should I do?

1) Leave it how it is. 4 ohm bridged, 8 ohms load. Doesnt sound loud enough and i need to put gain up more than 3/4 and bass boost is around 5 db.

2) Rewire back to 2 ohms load. 1200 rms too dangerous? I can put bass boost off and set Gain less than 1/2. Will it sound better than option 1?

3) Trade the Alpine Type R 4ohmDVC model to 2ohmDVC model and wire at 4ohm load to get 600rms.

4) Trade the PG amp for another MONO amp thats stable at 2ohms which pushes around 500rms. Alpine MRD M500 and MRP M500 I can get for $150 and $200.

[12voltjunky]

a Ti 600.2 should have no problem pushing an alpne 12" type R.
If it were mine, I would run the voice coils of the sub in parallel for a 2 ohm load
and back off the bass boost. I use a Ti 600.2 to push a JL 12w6v2. Admittedly,
I am using a line driver and a great box, but my bass boost is All the way Down and
i have plenty of low end...

use option 2...and it should be fine, although it might not be 1200 actual watts.
option 3 is also a good idea, if you want to change subs.
option 4 is a terrible idea IMO.

[godisanatheist]

a Ti 600.2 should have no problem pushing an alpne 12" type R.
If it were mine, I would run the voice coils of the sub in parallel for a 2 ohm load
and back off the bass boost. I use a Ti 600.2 to push a JL 12w6v2. Admittedly,
I am using a line driver and a great box, but my bass boost is All the way Down and
i have plenty of low end...

use option 2...and it should be fine, although it might not be 1200 actual watts.

Just wanna point out that its one 10" Type R actually. Its rated 200-500rms and my only concern is that I had this setup before and the amp kept going into thermal and eventually blew fuses. You think this was because of the bass boost and gain being too high? Someone hinted me that it may be a weak battery hmm..

[Audiophiliac]

The bass boost could have easily caused the amp to draw enough current to blow a fuse and/or heat up enough to thermal. I am not sure, but I am guessing PG's bass boost is centered at 45Hz....seems to be the industry norm. Remember that it takes DOUBLE the power for every 3dB increase in SPL. Let us say for reference, that your amp is giving your sub ~1200 watts. Well, when you turn up the bass boost +3dB, the amp will try to make ~2400 watts....that is an estimate given the 45Hz center frequency and the material you are listening too and how loud you have it turned up. But do the math on the current draw in that scenario and you will see that that little bass boost knob can cause all kinds of problems if it is misused. Imagine if it was turned to +12dB!

Moral of the story? Keep those bass boost knobs at zero, and set the gains properly. Chances are you are probably clipping the amp and high volumes as well. If you need more bass than your system can give you when it is properly set up, add more cone area, tune the enclosure(s) properly, and if needed, add more power.

[godisanatheist]

Ok I wired back to 2ohms, and I set the gain properly with a multimeter. Put the voltage around 36V. (Calculation I got for 650 w RMS, 2ohms)

Still doesn't sound loud enough, idk maybe I could go higher?

Either way.. I think this should be safe.

[kg1961]

if you have a line driver im sure you will have more than you need?

[godisanatheist]

if you have a line driver im sure you will have more than you need?

whats a line driver? lol


edit: i dont have one

[kg1961]

if you have a line driver im sure you will have more than you need?

whats a line driver? lol


edit: i dont have one

if your deck or rca don't get to the 4-8 volt you will not get the amp to reach what it was made to do
a line drive pg make many one pld1 it make the rca fron2-4 up to 8volts
im thining if the 600.2 does not have the power or doesn't move your sub than you need more signal or better electical.

[godisanatheist]

I've heard that even at 2ohm, the ti 600.2 wont produce extra power than if it was a 4 ohm load. http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads ... 36/fpart/2

if this is true then would i have to set gain again higher. (I think calculation works out to 48v)

[godisanatheist]

Do I set gain with Sub output level on my HU at 0 or at +15 (max)?

[12voltjunky]

what gauge wiring are you using and are there any other amps in the setup?

[ttocs]

pitch the meter and trust your ears. Get a cd that you are familiar with and set it so that it sounds good.... If you notice clipping anytime later turn it down asap, and then turn it down....

[godisanatheist]

4 gauge wires. no other amps.

I set gain using multimeter again at 49 volts.

No fuse blown yet but went into thermal a couple of times..

[ttocs]

is the fan running and do you have a couple of inches of space around it to allow it to breath?

[godisanatheist]

is the fan running and do you have a couple of inches of space around it to allow it to breath?

Fans working on it and yes in sitting in my hatch, it literally has a couple feet.

Seems like on bass heavy songs it only happens. Gain still set too high?

Not to mention this is happening during a canadian winter..

[godisanatheist]

Just wanna point out that some songs, the blue light on top of the amp flickers and goes really low sometimes too..

[brenzbmr@sb]

sounds like u have voltage issues with your amp, flickers i would start checking voltage at amp while its being beaten hard on. second what type of enclosure is this 10 in ? the third thing is that maybe after u figure all of this out that the 10 is just not big enough of a woofer for you..but check the flicker part first because i could see where u may have some issues with the fuses blowing if u had a bad connection or loose one.
make sure you have adequete wiring size and that your ground is not just stuck ont the closest bolt u could find.
sand the paint off of the ground and take time to make sure all your connections are tight and have good contact area.

[Stryker]

sounds like there is something wrong with your amp. I ran a 400Ti on 2 15's forever at 2 ohms and then a 600Ti after that on the same subs.
was plenty loud and hit hard. There may be a diode that is shot on the board. how long does it take to go into thermal protection?
I say this because it's cold outside and there is no way it should be doing that. Electrical may also be something to look at. I used bass boost and had my gain set at just past half for a number of years.

[godisanatheist]

10" is in a ported prefab box.

Voltage issue would be what.. a prob with my capacitor and battery?

I wanna point out that when I hooked it up 8ohms mono I had no problem whatsoever. No blow fuses, no thermal mode, no light flickering.

Today it only went into thermal once. But I was playing at almost 3/4 volume and I had the subwoofer output on my deck @ +7.

I'm thinking of trading this in for a 12" type r 2ohmdvc model so that I can wire it at 4ohms mono..

[godisanatheist]

wanna update:

top left of the amp gets hot then it goes into thermal.

voltage i measure while it went into thermal.. on heavy bass it would drop down to 8-9volts, once amp goes itno thermal it will spring back up to 12-13. while bass is hitting, voltage at the amp hovers around 9-12.

The AC voltage at the sub output isnt even going close to the 49v that i initially set the gain as though..

Is this normal.. or something wrong with the amp. or is my 1 farad cap giving this prob.

[godisanatheist]

Fukkkit

just sold the sub and bought a 12" 2ohm dvc model, in series at 4ohms.

works perfectly.

[Jacampb2]

FWIW, I think you still have a problem. I think you have an issue with the power distribution in your vehicle. Either a poor ground, or your wire is undersized for the length of the run. 9V is far to much voltage drop, the amp will still run, but it will draw MUCH more current to make up for the lower supply voltage. More current = more heat, and maybe the reasons for your issues. The upper left side of the amp is where the output transistors are located. I would not be surprised to find that area hot when you are beating on it. Anyhow, going to a 4 ohm mono load will definitely alleviate the problem, but you should really find what caused the issues in the first place. I too have run the Ti's into 2ohm and lower and never had issues, but you can't be retarded about it either. Anyhow, good luck, and try to track down what was the real issue.

Later,
Jason

[Jacampb2]

Oh, and needing a line driver is pure nonsense. The preamp can take as low as .2V and the amp will still make full power if the gains are adjusted right.

[HifiDon]

Consider doing a "Big 3" upgrade on your wiring. You can find alot of information online but here a link to get you started. Worth the extra effort!!
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/for ... 73496~PN~1