The ideal enclosure for the Ti12d's (not elites)

[thefowlerfam]

I just got my 1st set of PG subs. They are the Ti12d's (not the elites). So far im very imprressed, but I have a feeling they have alot more potential. Right now they are in a small sealed box (maybe 1cf per sub or less). Not I do like my musice loud & my last 5 systems have been ported, but im really like the sound these have sealed. What are your thoughts...should I go w/ a ported box around 2cf per sub tuned around 30-32hz? Or should I go w/ a larger sealed box aroundd 1.25-1.50cf per sub? I have a Hifonics BRZ1700.1 running them @ 1ohm, but have my gains set to just over 1200 watts rms. Also how are these Ti12d's compared to the Ti2's? As always any & all replies are welcome...Thanks, Jeremy

[kg1961]

here is the owner namual
http://download.phoenixphorum.com/Manua ... manual.pdf

[Bfowler]

i havnt run them ported yet...

[kg1961]

from what im told (never tried them) the t2 are like the RSDC
now the RSDC are IMO a better sub than the TI
louder cleaner newer

[stipud]

I'd go with 1-1.25 sealed. I ported my 10's, and while they were stupidly loud, I found them to be slow and sloppy. When sealed, they were really tight and fast.

[thefowlerfam]

I have them in a sealed box now. I just think its to small. I believe its 1cf per chamber before displacement. They do sound better & louder than my old Alpine, but im worried on how reliable they will be. I have my Hifonics BRZ1700.1 running at 1ohm but I set it w/ my dmm for just over 1200 watts. How reliable are the Ti12d's? I know the Alpines weren't the best but they would take a beating. Thanks for everyones help...

[stipud]

They are reliable, but any clipping at 1200w will shorten their lifespan, just like any other sub. I'd probably suggest filling your box with 2lb of polyfill (simulates a 20% larger box), but beyond that, making it much bigger will only make them boomier.

[Food4Woofers]

Hi. Id like to give my experience with the Ti subs. I had the 10's and 15's. I used them both in sealed and vented. Vented enclosures, with these models are forgiving. You can throw these in anything from small to really huge ported enclosures and they will jam. If you go ported, use a subsonic filter. These can handle lots of power. Waaaay over there rated specs. But at the bottom end they tend to sound not so good when pushing them hard ported UNLESS you use a subsonic filter at the right frequency.
I have the 10's in a ported box right now with a subsonic 18db cut off at about 30 hz. They sound like they are in a sealed enclosure. But with the loudness of a ported enclosure.
The Ti series in my opinion are not a Flat response sub. Id cut them off at 60 hz or even 50hz. Anything higher and they sound bad.
One thing about the Ti series is the glue that was used to glue the surround to the frame looses its adhesion. You may not know it but if you unscrew the sub you may find the rubber surround coming up and off the frame. You can easily pull the surround up if this is the case. My 10's were NIB and werent even used till recently and before I even put them in the enclosure I noticed the surround was coming unglued. I found a fantastic fix. I used Gorilla super glue and redid the entire surround. I lifted the surround up and applied a good bit. I pressed down for a few minutes and VOILA. If I had not done this the sub would have had massive air leaks and probably some sort of cone or voice coil damage. This didnt affect the movement at all. In fact if I didnot do this The subs would have been useless. The 10's were notorious for having the surround overlap the screw holes. When people would screw the subs in place the surround would buckle. I have no idea why PG picked such a wide surround for the 10's. the 15's didnt have that problem.
Id check your surrounds to see if they are in need of a re-glue job. The surrounds are super hard and tough unlike other brands. The glue I choose doesnt melt the rubber like with other foam surrounds.
But back to an enclosure recomendation, Id go with a ported using a subsonic filter.
One enclosure Id love to hear with these is a bandpass.
BTW. This is the OLDER Ti subs Im talking about. Circa year 2000 or so with the aluminum cones.

[thefowlerfam]

Hi. Id like to give my experience with the Ti subs. I had the 10's and 15's. I used them both in sealed and vented. Vented enclosures, with these models are forgiving. You can throw these in anything from small to really huge ported enclosures and they will jam. If you go ported, use a subsonic filter. These can handle lots of power. Waaaay over there rated specs. But at the bottom end they tend to sound not so good when pushing them hard ported UNLESS you use a subsonic filter at the right frequency.
I have the 10's in a ported box right now with a subsonic 18db cut off at about 30 hz. They sound like they are in a sealed enclosure. But with the loudness of a ported enclosure.
The Ti series in my opinion are not a Flat response sub. Id cut them off at 60 hz or even 50hz. Anything higher and they sound bad.
One thing about the Ti series is the glue that was used to glue the surround to the frame looses its adhesion. You may not know it but if you unscrew the sub you may find the rubber surround coming up and off the frame. You can easily pull the surround up if this is the case. My 10's were NIB and werent even used till recently and before I even put them in the enclosure I noticed the surround was coming unglued. I found a fantastic fix. I used Gorilla super glue and redid the entire surround. I lifted the surround up and applied a good bit. I pressed down for a few minutes and VOILA. If I had not done this the sub would have had massive air leaks and probably some sort of cone or voice coil damage. This didnt affect the movement at all. In fact if I didnot do this The subs would have been useless. The 10's were notorious for having the surround overlap the screw holes. When people would screw the subs in place the surround would buckle. I have no idea why PG picked such a wide surround for the 10's. the 15's didnt have that problem.
Id check your surrounds to see if they are in need of a re-glue job. The surrounds are super hard and tough unlike other brands. The glue I choose doesnt melt the rubber like with other foam surrounds.
But back to an enclosure recomendation, Id go with a ported using a subsonic filter.
One enclosure Id love to hear with these is a bandpass.
BTW. This is the OLDER Ti subs Im talking about. Circa year 2000 or so with the aluminum cones.

Thanks for the reply. I'm gonna build a 2cf per sub ported box and tune it to 34hz. Also I do have 1 of my subs surround buckling right by one of the mounting screws. I checked the surround and it's not coming unglued, but it does buckle at loud volumes. What can I do to stop that? Other than that they sound great. Im running them on a Hifonics BRZ1700.1 @ 1ohm with my lp filter at 60hz. Once I put them in the ported box, I will set the subsonic at 30hz. I'm just worried about the buckle in the surround on 1 of the subs. Thanks for everyone's replies...

[Food4Woofers]

The buckling doesnt affect the sound but may be a hint there is an air leak waiting to happen.
You should try to fix this.

Take the screw out where its buckling.
Use a flash light and inspect the screw whole and use a pointy object to see if you can pry up the surround where the screw was. Usually the area where the surround starts to pull up is right where the screw is and you can see where the screw has been pushed into the rubber.
When you remove the screw the buckling will release.

You need to trim some of the rubber away from the screw hole. This rubber is really hard. You need to be very careful and go slow.
Use an exacto blade or something precise. Dont use a kitchen knife and dont use a heated object.
Once you trimmed the rubber back from the screw hole , again make sure the rubber is well glued to the frame. If it isnt you will need to apply the Gorilla Glue I used. It will not melt the rubber surround or warp it like other SUper Glue's Ive used on other types of surrounds. PG used a very highly durable surround but its just to wide and covers the screw wholes.
After you inspect the glue and trimmed the rubber as needed, place the screw back in, tight. Take some socks. Plug up the Ports on your enclosure and make sure NO air is allowed to leave the ports. Now press on one of the speaker cones. Try to listen for any air leaks around the screw holes. You may even hear air leaks on other parts of the enclosure. If you hear any leaks seal them up with clear silicone. Just a dab. not much. Let it dry completely. Make sure to remove the socks. Then Jam away.
I had to do a complete re-glue of my 10's. The entire surrounds were coming unglued and they werent even used!
Now they are sealed and like new again but they wont be loosing there adhesion again. That glue is awesome.