Think I have a big problem

Blad09 · Post by **Blad09** » Sat Mar 31, 2012 6:53 am

00goobs wrote:I think if you have a volt/multi meter, you could do a diode test across the leads of the capacitor. It should only conduct (beep) one way when you test in correct polarity and reverse polarity. It is easy to do this test before you hook the batt up to the amp...

Don't know if I've done this right, but I'm getting the same reading no matter which lead of the caps (pos or neg) I put either probe to(red or black). I've got it set to diode test, it starts with open line, then every cap reads 0.0001 when I touch the other probe. Is this what I want to see? Hope that makes sense lol.

Blad09 · Post by **Blad09** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:13 am

I'm getting a short across B+ and B- terminals. Anyone know what that could mean? Haven't powered it, just using my meter.

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:53 am

Sorry for the late response, but I believe you should try switching the leads around when you test for the short. There are diodes which are supposed to help protect the amp in case someone were to install the pos and neg leads incorrectly. So if it shows a short in one test, it shouldn't show a short when you test with the leads in the opposite locations. If you still get a short when you switch leads, your may have soldered the top and bottom of the board accidentally.

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:55 am

Blad09 wrote:
00goobs wrote:I think if you have a volt/multi meter, you could do a diode test across the leads of the capacitor. It should only conduct (beep) one way when you test in correct polarity and reverse polarity. It is easy to do this test before you hook the batt up to the amp...
Don't know if I've done this right, but I'm getting the same reading no matter which lead of the caps (pos or neg) I put either probe to(red or black). I've got it set to diode test, it starts with open line, then every cap reads 0.0001 when I touch the other probe. Is this what I want to see? Hope that makes sense lol.

It seems like you've done the test right, try it again just using the continuity checker. The diode test on my fluke has similar results when checking a working amp.

Blad09 · Post by **Blad09** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:45 am

Diode test shows same reading on all caps no matter what probe goes where, 0.0001
Then, using 200ohms setting, I put black probe into (-) terminal on amp and used the red probe on the cap leads and I get cont. on all 8 leads. Same reading with probe in (+) terminal on amp.
With same setting on meter, I put black probe to (-), red probe to (+) terminals on amp, I have continuity as well. So a short right?
Anything else I could check that might help determine where my problem(s) are?

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 1:49 pm

I would think short if tested this way. A quick test would be remove the caps and check again, or apply 12 volts with a 5 amp fuse in line. All my working amps have continuity one way, but a high resistance the other way. I had 500 ohms on most of them and short the opposite way.

Try with the fuse and if it blows, remove the damaged thru hole repair and capacitor and do the test again.

Blad09 · Post by **Blad09** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 3:47 pm

K I will try powering it up hopefully tomorrow, before I start takin caps off again. I appreciate your help 00goobs. I know walkin an amateur (me

) through something like this, over the computer, can prob get difficult and/or annoying to say the least. So thanks for stickin with me. I'll let u know how the power test goes once it's done.

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:22 pm

I am interested in making a video of a quick test, just looking for someone with nice hands, hehehe. We love PG, so I'll help as much as I can...

Blad09 · Post by **Blad09** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:46 pm

Well, it's shorting out. Popped a 5 amp fuse instantly

. So one more thing before I tear out the caps, in between the caps and the internal fuse there are four black components. Are they diodes? cuz they read no resistance both ways as well.

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:31 pm

Blad09 wrote:Well, it's shorting out. Popped a 5 amp fuse instantly . So one more thing before I tear out the caps, in between the caps and the internal fuse there are four black components. Are they diodes? cuz they read no resistance both ways as well.

I believe they are diodes, do they have a white stripe on one end only? If the amp was ever hooked up backwards, the diodes may blow. They should have continuity one way only. The only way to really test them is out of the circuit. When the cap/hole blew, was the amp playing then suddenly stopped or went into protect? If the power mosfets are dead/shorted, then it would cause the situation you are having. If the amp was still working, but sounded bad and wasn't in protection mode, then it may just be your soldering of the cap and affected area...

Safest/easiest thing to check, remove the cap in the damaged area and remove the solder in the hole until you see the board without solder... Then test again for continuity both ways...

Blad09 · Post by **Blad09** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:55 am

I bought the amp with the blown cap so I'm not sure how/if it worked afterwards. I'll take the caps back off starting with the bad one and test it after each one has been pulled. Hopefully it is that bad cap/solder job cuz I've only got 2 spare caps left, but I guess if they all come off and it's still shorting then I've got a whole other issue so.... I will let u know how it goes.

Blad09 · Post by **Blad09** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:05 am

I pulled the cap where the damage was and re-tested + to - and it's still shorted. Haven't pulled any other caps cuz I dont think they're the problem, I'm confident I did a good job on them. If there's any other tests I could do I will try anything about now, otherwise I'll just start saving some dough to ship this thing away to be fixed by someone who knows exactly what they're doing. So like I say if there's anything else I can try, I will and again I appreciate all the help!

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 5:46 pm

Shipping out would probably be best, have the valeks go through it and do the repairs. I've seen some TI600.2s lately going for $150-200. Start with a decent used working amp and do the caps. Build up your experience and learn to repair them and you may be able to DIY repair this amp. For it to be shorted, you could remove the power mosfets and test them individually. This amp may have been damaged before you bought it, or the hole where your cap repair was may have shorted to the chassis then shorted out the power section...