ZX 600TI Bridged at 1 ohm load?

[M-Couper]

New member, long time PG enthusiast.

I'm setting up my 2000 Wrangler with my old 500.4ti running JBL 508gti fronts & 608gti rears and my zx600ti running two RE SEx v2 4 ohm dvc subs.

My question is will I be better suited exchanging the 4 ohm dvc's for 2 ohmers and series them out for a net 2 ohm load or will I be ok paralleling my 4 ohmers down to 1 ohm?

If the amp can take it I'd love to keep things where they're at using the twin 4 ohm dvc's but wanted to check with you guys before going down that road.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

[Eric D]

Series the coils, and parallel the woofers for a 4 ohm load on the "bridged" output of the amp.

[M-Couper]

Series the coils, and parallel the woofers for a 4 ohm load on the "bridged" output of the amp.

Thanks for chiming in.

I figured I could go that route but I'd really like to extract the most out of the amp. I know the stated stats say that bridged is rated for two ohm but curious if anyone knows whether the 600 can hang in 1 ohm or should I go to the trouble of swapping out the subs as mentioned to 2 ohmers and series those back to a net 2 ohm load. Unless you think I'll get plenty of kick running @ 4??

[wash with gasoline]

Last time I ran a ti600 into a 1 ohm load (13 or so years ago) it overheated and shut down in around 10 minutes.
Bridged at 2ohms they pull a lot of amps and run hot but will hang in there as long as you have air space around the amp.

you can always try at 4 ohms and see what you think

[M-Couper]

Last time I ran a ti600 into a 1 ohm load (13 or so years ago) it overheated and shut down in around 10 minutes.
Bridged at 2ohms they pull a lot of amps and run hot but will hang in there as long as you have air space around the amp.

you can always try at 4 ohms and see what you think

I guess it wont hurt to give 4 ohm a try. Thanks for the feedback

[vladthebad]

4 ohm is where it should be bridged. The 2 ohm bridged is PG saying "it's durable as hell, it'll take some abuse if you feed it and cool it." You don't gain that much more, other than twice the heat, and 50% more power. Lots higher risk of blowing it up. That's also why they toned down the MS2250TA big time. Original is basically guaranteed death at 2 ohm mono. TA will live, but run hot. TA was only 250x2 though at 4 ohm, original was 340ishx2 at 4 ohm.

[M-Couper]

4 ohm is where it should be bridged. The 2 ohm bridged is PG saying "it's durable as hell, it'll take some abuse if you feed it and cool it." You don't gain that much more, other than twice the heat, and 50% more power. Lots higher risk of blowing it up. That's also why they toned down the MS2250TA big time. Original is basically guaranteed death at 2 ohm mono. TA will live, but run hot. TA was only 250x2 though at 4 ohm, original was 340ishx2 at 4 ohm.

Good, Advice. I dunno why I was really pushing for either 1 or 2 ohm anyway. In a Jeep I think a 4 ohm load should be plenty sufficient. My only real concern was my sealed enclosure due to size restrictions in a TJ. I'll be setting things up tonight and report back. Thanks.

Cheers