Getting AC to the back/cargo area of SUV

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri May 16, 2008 3:10 pm

Some of you may be aware of what it is I am setting up for my install and some maybe not, perhaps.... for those of you that are not.. Below is a picture...

I have a fan uinder there as you can see (in one of the pic's), but the problem i feel that is happening is that even though/as the fan is properly working under there, there is no circulation of any new air, exspecially cooler air...
I have heard of people running off their Air Condition and hosing it somehow to the back area of where they have amps installed. I am considering this, but how does one go about doing that???
I kinda feel that it's such a small area that the amp reside in, it really doesnt need to be so much, and any amount is better than none. When i drive around and doing my deliveries, travcel to mom/dads house etc... maybe there is stuff in back area, or maybe there isn't, but I prefer to ravel with the swing door closed, and the fan certainly works, but it's just circulating the very same warmn air around in there... I think it would be nice to have a way to get new air to be able to get in there.

Any ideas, maybe from someone that has done this, or knows of someone that has, etc.. would be a big help and greatly appreciated...

Pls Thx
Matt

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri May 16, 2008 3:17 pm

i can't see where the fan is, but i think taping into the A/C is a unnessicary idea

you just need to cut some vents, and position the fan(s) to push air in one side and pull the warm air out on the other side of the fins.

Post by **Francious70** » Fri May 16, 2008 3:43 pm

I agree with Brian here. You don't need cooled air, you just need airflow.

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Fri May 16, 2008 3:54 pm

Looking at your build pics in the install forum, it looks like the tub the amp resides in is completely enclosed and the floor you put down meets the area all the way around. If you were to run a/c to that area, would there be any where to do it with out raising the floor?

To use the vehicles a/c to cool, you could get hosing at lowes/home depot and run it to that location from the closest point in the rear of the vehicle that you can 'tap into' a vent duct. Problem is it will blow hot air in the winter when your heater is on.

It's tuff to tell going by the pics you have but is there a way to get something under the floor? If so maybe another fan like the one you have mounted in the side panel of the vehicle blowing under the floor to get some kind of circulation going to that amp spot. Or a fan at the end of a hose that can reach that spot.

Again it's tuff to suggest something without seeing what you have left to work with.

Post by **mhyde71** » Fri May 16, 2008 4:08 pm

fan is supported where the posts of threaded rod are... here is a better look...
It's hard to get ventilatation as it is such an air tight/closed off area.. maybe if I poke/slit a number of slits in the board/door just about of where the fan is.. or maybe even better on both sides of amp for intake and exhaust?? but that'sgonna be difficult and possibly not so good looking.. Maybe I could pull out a crew or two in the floor that reaches outside and run a rubber hose in there? I dont know grabbin' at straws really...

Here is better look of where/how the fan is set up..

INCIDENTLY.. No longer a 2250TA.. Last Night I chenged it over to a 2250 Original.. I kinda liked the look the TA had a little better, but I will eventually swap out the blus caps for the newer black ones, as that blue doesnt go with anything.... (updated in install gallery as well)

But just so you know it is not a TA anylonger, and it is running 2 ohm stereo.. and it got pretty hot today after running it for a few hours.. Not so so hot I couldnt lay hand on it, but certainly was noticible a bit.

andy600rr · Post by **andy600rr** » Fri May 16, 2008 4:56 pm

Matt, I'm with Greg on this one.

I looks like you need to raise the whole false floor in the cargo area by an inch or so to allow a bit more air to circulate. I know this is a pain in the ass since you just finished doing the floor, and it also means you'll lose a bit of cargo space but I'm sure the 2250 would be much happier in the long run. It also then means that if you `do' want to tap into an a/c duct then it gives you room to run pipework under the floor.

If you do this and want to stop hot air hitting the amp in winter when warm air is coming through the vents, put a 12volt solenoid valve in the pipework (the kind you'd use in a backyard watering system) which enables you to turn the ducted air on or off with a hidden switch.

Out of interest, do you notice any audible difference between the 2250TA and the 2250??

Andrew.

andy600rr · Post by **andy600rr** » Fri May 16, 2008 4:56 pm

oops.... double post

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Fri May 16, 2008 6:21 pm

Here's an idea for what it's worth. You could spin the fan around to point up and blow the air out. Slot the amp mounting panel and put a grill over it. Meaning, you would be gathering air from that 'cavity' and expelling it.

Sooo .. you would need a second opening to allow air back in. However it doesn't look like you have the room for a slot in the panel on the other side of the amp. All the wiring is tight there. That's where you would know better what might work to allow air in to circulate.

Those fans move a surprising amount of air. It would probably be enough to keep it from overheating. And it would be easy enough vs. something drastic.

Post by **mhyde71** » Sat May 17, 2008 3:11 am

Hey guys thanx, yeah and it sounds as though there are a couple options.. I really wouldn't want to go thru the raisning of the florr process and stuff. but might have too. Or maybe there is a way to drill some holes in the floor floor that goes to the under carrige of vehichle and put a rubber gromet there and allow air to fly up into the cavity.. i dunno.

but somethign needs to be done for sure.. I will look at it and maybe take more pic's today...

There is a little room under the floor for running stuf in from other places, I can even raise it about 3/4" with a felt pad cut out to match. or use the felt pad and then cut out channels within the felt to run tubing/duct work to the back.

Also on another note I havent been getting topic replyy notifications??

Second.. Between the TA and the orig 2250, all I notice really is a little more power/punch.. defiantely more punch, as far as SQ or anything, no difference for me between the two.. I just liked the look of the TA versus the Orig.. I think I might put a TA plexi on it, thro some black Caps in it, and change the LED's to TA LEDS. I dunno though, that's kinda really altering the orig look, but those blue caps are UGLY!

Post by **mhyde71** » Tue May 20, 2008 4:15 am

hey guys thanks for input.. but here's what I have recently discovered over the weekend... have a stab at this.. and/in which I think might be the best resolve,... lemme know what you guys think??? I noticed that there is a 1" (maybe 3/4") diameter hole in the corner of my cubby space that goes directly to the outside of car.. looks as though it might be for draining or something.. anywho.. maybe a great idea... I can drill the hole a little bigger and secure some threaded rod (a 4-post setup) through the metal and suspend/secure a fan underneath as an exhaust fan. I would think as it is pulling from cubby and pushing outwards I wouldnt be so concerned with exhaust fumes from vehicle, right? maybe even do an added measure of sometype of sealant/fill for the fan to be flush against the underside of vehicle. that way there would be the popssibility of having fumes snake around the fan and inside to cubby.

So the stinger fan on lift door is pushing air to that end of the cubby and the computer fan will be pulling it out of cubbby and onto(into) the outside/street.... how does that sound and what concerns might I be overlooking???

Again I can and probably would want to drill the hole just a 1/4" - 1/2" bigger in diameter for maxium air flow... right? or do you guys think that hole the way it is now would be sufficient?

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Tue May 20, 2008 5:49 am

I would be mostly concerned with water getting into that cavity. That pan is probably one of the lowest points in the section of floor and most likely to take on water.

One solution to that might be to extend a tube down about 2-3 inches. That would help keep splashes from reaching too far up the tube. And to make it more effective, a type of louver on the end of the tube would keep even more moisture out.

Then the other question is where will the air be coming from? Is there sufficiant room/channels under the floor to allow air to circulate to the cavity? Maybe putting a slot vent above the amp fan would be the trick.

tipracer · Post by **tipracer** » Tue May 20, 2008 12:40 pm

If you want to use the hole enlarge it and use a one way flapper type valve...or make slots on oposite sides of the amp then trim them...presto happy amp.

tipracer · Post by **tipracer** » Tue May 20, 2008 12:41 pm

If you want to use the hole enlarge it and use a one way flapper type valve(venting out only)...or make slots on oposite sides of the amp then trim them...presto happy amp.