Options, options... what do you recommend?

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:42 am

Well, I've been contemplating a few different ideas to spice up the in-vehicle musical enjoyment. Now I need your opinions on what direction you would choose. This is really just a big feeler to see what other skilled and knowledgeable people would do or recommend. So have at it.

The current setup:

Right now I'm rocking the M100 to 2 x RSd12D2 running at 2 ohms, one to each channel. An M44 is bridged to RSd 6" components up front and my rear 5" Dayton Audio reference series are powered from the Alpine HU, but these are of little consequence as they go relatively unused. Some other things are thrown in the mix there including an EQ-230, AX-204A, etc.

The amps are mounted to the backs of the rear seats, but the amp rack (if you can even call it that) is pretty ghetto and while it's very hidden so you can't see it's ghetto-ness, it's not prime.

So far I'm fairly pleased with the system. I have no major gripes although I haven't experienced enough systems and installs to know what I'm missing, yet.

So I've been mulling over a few ideas for changes/upgrades some of which involving adding and/or changing gear and others that don't.

####

Option 1)

- Build a real amp rack that basically replaces the rear panels on my back seats. It would be carpeted to match and be a hell of a lot more solid than what I'm hiding underneath the stock rear panels.

- Install two M-series fan units I have sitting around on the amp rack (no shrouds though...)

- Finally get around to installing the TBAt to go with the EQ-230.

- Wire up the HU, TBAt, CB and fans to the TiDD10.

Option 2)

- Do all items in Option 1.

- Replace RSd speakers and woofers with RSd Competition gear (whenever the RSdC components are released). This could be a major change though depending on what the RSdC comps are like. If they are a 3 way setup, I would have to drastically change my front stage setup and that could be overkill or just plain too much for a hobbyist like myself.

Option 3)

- Do all items in Option 1.

- Buy an M25 and AX-406A and go active, using the M25 for tweets, M44 bridged to mids. (Or if there is enough space, an M50!)

- Potentially combine Option 2.

Option 4)

- Something else?

####

As you can see, I'm fairly set on eventually doing something about my amp rack and getting all accessories wired up to the TiDD10 instead of just some of them... perhaps baby steps are best and I should move a head with Option 1 and then start thinking about other options.

Tom suggested that the M44 would be plenty enough for going active. I would like to agree but the thought of more power is always fun!

Any suggestions on building a simple plank-of-MDF amp rack? I was thinking at first that I would build it in two sections so that my seats could go down independently but the more I think about it, the less that seems to be of any benefit. In fact, if I make one solid piece across the back and attach it to both seat backs, I get more mounting space and options...

Of course, I'm asking because this is all up in the air and I'm open to suggestions, criticism and of course your wrath.

So, what do you guys think?

Post by **Rold Gold** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:46 am

THIS THREAD IS USELESS WITHOUT PIX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You know the rules Ryan......

I'm going active. I'll be running the M100 for subs, M44 will power 4 6's, each M50 will power 2 8's up front and the M25 will power 4 tweets.

Post by **Bfowler** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:50 am

lol, he has pics in the instal section!

i didnt even listen to it while you were here! if you like the way it sounds, just go with #1.

i you are lacking something....whatcha lacking?

Post by **Rold Gold** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:11 am

Well, goddanmit!!!!!!!!!!! Can we get a link!!!!!!

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:14 am

http://phoenixphorum.com/pg-4runner-vt272.html

There it is. You'll have to hit at least page 3 before it even gets to the point where I bought an M100 and 2 x 12".

Post by **Rold Gold** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:52 am

Well then............

If it was me, I'd build a new box that spans the whole width of the back of yer Runner. Maybe just panels that make it apear to be that wide. For the front panel, a piece of 1/2" to "sink" the subs and get rid of those grills. For the back panel, I'd build a coffin (putting the amps together) to hold the amps. At which point I'd cut a face panel out of 1/4" that would cover the wires/connections and only show face/sink of the amps. I LOVE the M's cuz they look klean in just about ANY install. I'm also with Fowler...If it sounds how ya want it to but you just want a different look, I say redo it all.

JMO....

Post by **stipud** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:02 pm

I say #1/2 for now. Your stereo sounds good enough as-is. Running active would require a lot of processing that you don't really have yet, and probably wouldn't offer any major advantages over your current setup.

As for the RSDC subs... yeah, they are awesome, and two 12's would be nice and snappy off of your M100. I haven't got a single problem with mine running at 250 RMS. However, I don't think they offer a substantial enough improvement over your RSDs to race out and swap them just yet.

Personally I would spend more time tuning the system, or improving your install with sound deadening, etc. Once you've got your current install finished, THEN you can worry about changing it up.

Post by **Rold Gold** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:10 pm

Yer right about that Tom......... You can't tell what to change until you've completed the entire build.

That is the MAIN deciding factor of it being a hobby or a project.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:17 pm

FuzzyHoNutz wrote:Well then............

If it was me, I'd build a new box that spans the whole width of the back of yer Runner. Maybe just panels that make it apear to be that wide. For the front panel, a piece of 1/2" to "sink" the subs and get rid of those grills. For the back panel, I'd build a coffin (putting the amps together) to hold the amps. At which point I'd cut a face panel out of 1/4" that would cover the wires/connections and only show face/sink of the amps. I LOVE the M's cuz they look klean in just about ANY install. I'm also with Fowler...If it sounds how ya want it to but you just want a different look, I say redo it all.

JMO....

I have different grills now and they stick out even more than the old school ones I had on the XS subs.

I never thought of the coffin idea... that sure would clean up the wiring a lot, even though most of it is going straight down and under the carpeting. It would also showcase the amps a little more when the seats are down, although that happens rarely.

I like your idea of making the box wider, or rather, just adding panelling on to the side but I also really like that area above the wheel wells for storing shit like a power chord, WW fluid, etc. If I don't totally suck I could maybe build those up into proper cubbies instead, function AND form!

Any suggestions on going with a single plank for the amp rack across both seats or splitting it up so I can raise/lower the driver's side rear seat independently?

Post by **stipud** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:23 pm

You need to post some new pics as well... show off that nice DD10 and RSD subs

Post by **Rold Gold** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:46 pm

I've done the "back of the seat" mounting thing a few times. I mostly worry about the movement of the wiring in general. I've never had an issue but it's the idea that something could happen. Building the coffin might also give ya alittle more room in the back as you'd be able to move the box more toward the seats.

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:49 pm

You could leave them as they are and fab covers to go over them. Sorta like Harold describes except 2 individual pcs. Make a top and sides with a window for the amp's profile and secure the cover over them. You wouldn't need to undo anything, just build over top. Hide all the wiring. Cover with vinyl or fabric to match the vehicle.

or

Build a new sub box with the amp rack integrated into the back of the box. Have the amps viewable when you fold the seat but not attached to the seats.

Did you ever add the EQ & tba? What's the pocket in the back of the sub enclosure for? Sorry if you posted this already, I didn't see it in the install thread.

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:54 pm

gkitching wrote:You could leave them as they are and fab covers to go over them. Sorta like Harold describes except 2 individual pcs. Make a top and sides with a window for the amp's profile and secure the cover over them. You wouldn't need to undo anything, just build over top. Hide all the wiring. Cover with vinyl or fabric to match the vehicle.

or

Build a new sub box with the amp rack integrated into the back of the box. Have the amps viewable when you fold the seat but not attached to the seats.

Did you ever add the EQ & tba? What's the pocket in the back of the sub enclosure for? Sorry if you posted this already, I didn't see it in the install thread.

Yep, the EQ-230 and the AX-204A are mounted into the pocket on the sub box.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate it!