Box Building... New router..What bit?

KHPower · Post by **KHPower** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:19 am

I purchased a new plunge router that accepts 1/4 '' and 1/2 inch shanks /bits and my first project for my router will be cutting out the speaker holes using a Jasper jig in the boxes I will be building.

I am new to this and I didnt get any bits for my router yet because I am a novice but from other forums I have heard the best bit to use is a upspiraling bit , the only problem is when I am at the store I cannot find one thats says that exactly. So what kind of bit or bits can I use to cut my subwoower holes? I use 1'' mdf

Any advice would be great! I could always go to Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap set but I would like "better" longlasting quality and features of a more expesive bit. But I am clueless

Help?

Post by **Bfowler** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:37 am

the stright upspiraling bit is the right bit to use....

http://routerbitworld.com/2-Flute-Up-Cu ... s/1240.htm

make sure the "blade" part is long enough to accomodate the entire thickness of your mdf

KHPower · Post by **KHPower** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:04 am

Thanks alot I now know what I can get

Does the shank size matter? 1/4 or 1/2?

Post by **Bfowler** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:09 am

1/4 is better for this application imo, a 1/2 inch bore is cutting alot of wood as you move all the way around the circle.

Post by **Bfowler** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:14 am

also, since it sounds like you are using a plunge router you should take a look at pics 9 and 10 of my box building tutotial.

http://phoenixphorum.com/bfowler-s-big- ... vt310.html

what happens is, since your jasper jig is pivitong on the surface you are cutting out....as you near the end it becomes a little unstable.

to counter this, i used clamps to hold the circle in place until i was done.

Thumper88 · Post by **Thumper88** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:45 pm

Bfowler wrote:also, since it sounds like you are using a plunge router you should take a look at pics 9 and 10 of my box building tutotial.

http://phoenixphorum.com/bfowler-s-big- ... vt310.html

what happens is, since your jasper jig is pivitong on the surface you are cutting out....as you near the end it becomes a little unstable.

to counter this, i used clamps to hold the circle in place until i was done.

Or just use a sacrificial piece of wood underneath....

I have a piece of wood for this purpose and have used it several times...the pivot pin goes through the piece you're cutting as well as the sacrificial piece of wood...keeps everything in place. I also clamp the outer edge of the piece I plan to keep as well....makes a perfect circle since everything stays put.

dedlyjedly · Post by **dedlyjedly** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:45 pm

Yeah, 1/4" will be good for a handheld router w/ a circle jig. Just be sure to take a couple of passes at the material. You don't want to try to cut the entire thickness at once. Just go a round a few times plunging an additional 1/4"-1/3" each time. Nice and easy.

It takes more time this way, but it's well worth it in the end. It's important to remember that a router is a precision cutting tool. Your bits will last a lot longer when you're not abusing them and it's a lot safer when you're not placing a lot of unnecessary stress on a small piece of carbide steel while it's spinning at 30krpm!

As far as bits, I only use Whiteside. They're one-piece solid carbide construction. I'd recommend a double flute spiral down cut bit for your application...and these seem to be about the best prices out there... http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbit ... 068_7668+9

Amana also makes very nice bits and I'm sure there are other reputable manufacturers. Stay away from most of the bits you'll find at Home Depot or Lowes. Router bits are an investment. Cheap bits will dull fast and need replacement and you'll spend more in the long run to go along with all the heartache of dealing with their bullshit performance.

HoseHead · Post by **HoseHead** » Wed Jun 04, 2008 6:25 am

Yeah, what Thumper and Dedly said.

I actually drill two counter sunk holes through the "circle" piece I'll be discarding. Two screws through here into the scrap piece underneath holds everything in place, especially when finishing the cut. I generally use 4 passes to complete a circle in 3/4" MDF.

Quality router bits are well worth the expense. You will spend more overall on replacing generic Korean steel bits than it costs for a performance bit. In addition, as mentioned, the finished product is always perfect.

HH

Thumper88 · Post by **Thumper88** » Wed Jun 04, 2008 10:41 am

HoseHead wrote:Yeah, what Thumper and Dedly said.

I actually drill two counter sunk holes through the "circle" piece I'll be discarding. Two screws through here into the scrap piece underneath holds everything in place, especially when finishing the cut. I generally use 4 passes to complete a circle in 3/4" MDF.

Quality router bits are well worth the expense. You will spend more overall on replacing generic Korean steel bits than it costs for a performance bit. In addition, as mentioned, the finished product is always perfect.

HH

Ah yes, forgot to mention the screws in the center piece...I use 4 passes as well.

KHPower · Post by **KHPower** » Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:05 am

Thanks for all the advice! I will check into those bits and fully decide. I also heard the Bosh solid carbide up or down spirals are good and available at Lowes

Post by **Bfowler** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 2:37 pm

they are

those are the bits i went with

KHPower · Post by **KHPower** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 2:47 pm

Bfowler wrote:they are those are the bits i went with

I just picked up some yesterday

I couldnt decide which one so I bought both 1 upspiral and 1 downspiral Bosch bits.

I should receive the Jasper Jig by wednesday so I can start construction on my box. I need to practice with the router on some scrap MDF

rlockwood · Post by **rlockwood** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 4:12 pm

a good flush trim bit and a corner rounding bit go a LONG ways in the car audio world, also.