
I hope I dont blow the speakers.

I get the impression you like POWER!STROKD wrote:Ill be using 150x2 to the tweets and 150 x 2 to the mids... 2 ZX600Tis.![]()
Little bit! But the thing is, I have the OffRoads to use, and I don't want just one in the car, so I figured I might as well use as much of the power as I can. I might run the other one bi-amped to the backs as well.gkitching wrote:I get the impression you like POWER!STROKD wrote:Ill be using 150x2 to the tweets and 150 x 2 to the mids... 2 ZX600Tis.![]()
yes but you are killing your imaging. You have a mono signal to the front and one to the backs... best way I can think of is to run the fronts bi amped (2 channels off the 500.4 and the two channel 600.2 actively to the woofers), then run the other 2 channels to the 500.4 rears to the backs with a passive crossover... if the backs are co-ax, then disregard the passive crossover.thedeal7235 wrote:ok, soo ive been playn this afternoon, how about wiring the 2 front 6.5 together, then bridged on front of the 500.4, then wire the 2 rear 6.5 together and bridge to the rear??? wouldnt that be 2ohm stereo(kinda in theory), hasnt gotten hot once this way
150 x 2 on front woofers, 75 x 2 to tweeters, 75 x 2 to rear fill... if thats not enough, add another set of speakers up front and another amp.thedeal7235 wrote:before i went active i did bridge the fronts passively, and the output was very similiar to them active @ 75watts rms, hard to believe but true
i have some ID gear (componants) for sale.. CXS Stuff and XS Stuff 2-ohm.. if you want.. PM if interested... holladako wrote:I run a Tantrum 300.2 to a set of Alpine Type-R comps. It's a decent setup while I look for something with a bit more punch and audiophile quality.
DAMN!gkitching wrote:Tweeters getting 110w/chnl
Mids getting 110w/chnl
Midbass getting 400w/chnl
Total 620w/chnl up front
I believe it, I went active two months or so ago on my Polk SR6500's and OMG, what a diff!!!! Bigger soundstage, louder, cleaner, crisper, everything was an improvement over passive! BTW, anybody looking at a pair of high-end seperates MUST audition a pair of SR's! Set up properly, they are AMAZING!!!thedeal7235 wrote:before i went active i did bridge the fronts passively, and the output was very similiar to them active @ 75watts rms, hard to believe but true
well that's kinda a loaded question or one that is difficult to answer.. as I am really not sure to be honest.. I think they are active/passive if it can be??? I have the HU X'ed at 80 or 125 for the HPF (high pass filter).. but also use the passive xovers (that came with the ID Gear)... so does that make me passsive or active, or is that "passactive" - i dunnno I kinda covered this question in a recent past thread but didnt get a clear answer I dont think.. or i forgot to go back and look...gridracer wrote:Just curious why you wouldn't run the fronts active it would sound better.mhyde71 wrote: passive up front, active for subs (sub outs crossed at 50/80/125 depending and fronts crossed at 80 or 125 ) actu