Finally got amp. Some more quetions

Post by **Rold Gold** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:46 am

Where- A place with some free space behind it. (like where I said)

How- Use a hole saw!!!! Find one the same size or a touch smaller than the tweeter socket. Cut from the back side. Be careful that the pilot bit doesn't grab the vinyl cus it'll fuk it up. Cut through the plasic only. Use a razorblade to cut an X in the vinyl.

ooober60 · Post by **ooober60** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 11:58 am

one question... how do i get to my speakers. do i pop off that grill loking thing, that whole panel, or the whole door panel?

Post by **Rold Gold** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 12:38 pm

Looks to me like it's the whole thing. Don't just start pulling on things!!!! There's gonna be some screws and clips that hold it on and may be hidden. TAKE YER TIME..................

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 12:44 pm

I would consider putting the tweets in the little sail panel at the top of the door. If you're concerned about screwing something up and then the cost of replacing it, that little sail panel would only run a couple of bucks where as the door panel would run a couple of hundred.

ooober60 · Post by **ooober60** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 12:45 pm

well so far i've takes out three screws... i don't see any more

ooober60 · Post by **ooober60** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 12:58 pm

ok so i have come to the point where the door panel is almost off.. it can wiggle and stuff but all of the wiring and electrics windows and mirror stuff is connected. it seems like theres still one screw or clip in the middle that i cant find

Post by **Rold Gold** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 1:05 pm

Check the handle and the "grab". There is usually a screw there. Unplug all the electrical carefully.

ooober60 · Post by **ooober60** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 1:40 pm

so i have run into a problem. That last screw it underneath all of the windows up and down and locks buttons. i tried to get that panel off and would up breaking off the clip(its alright, nothing superglue cant fix.) But how am i really supposed to get that off..

Post by **Bfowler** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 1:44 pm

the plate with the buttons usually just pops out. with out pics its hard to say.

Post by **Rold Gold** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 2:22 pm

It would have to just "pop out" cus that's the only way to get the panel off.

ooober60 · Post by **ooober60** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 6:41 pm

It doesn't just "pop out" because I tried that and broke the piece.

icehole · Post by **icehole** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 7:33 pm

I don't know about your panel. Maybe it's actually free, and the release handle just needs to be pulled out to get through the hole??? Sorry.

Did you buy speakers and an amp yet? For clean install sake, I seriously suggest coax. The RSD tweet isn't the prettiest thing in the world, particularly against a beige backdrop. Also RSDs have great drivers, but the weaklink is the passive crossover. I can't imagine the coaxes sounding noticeably worse.

If I was doing a budget install in a car without a stock tweet location, I'd do the coaxes run active with a decent (perhaps used) 50x4 amp and research and find a cheap (perhaps used) but functional x-over.

You'll be kicking yourself in the ass if you fuck up your doors.

rlockwood · Post by **rlockwood** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 7:56 pm

actually, i'd suggest a convertable, like the PG xenons or exile xtecs. (I hear the xtecs are better. I have the xenons, and they're decent; better than any standard coaxial ive ever heard)

these allow you most of the benefits of both a convertable and a coaxial, you get to retain the crossover and the quality of having both a true midrange and tweeter, but you dont have to worry about cutting up your doors or otherwise creating a mounting location. You dont get to aim them independantly, so your soundstage suffers slightly from mounting them as seperates.. but you're definately better off going down this route than running a regular coaxial.

as for your door panels, locate a service manual for your vehicle. Very few of us on this board are actually professionals.. so short of the cars we each have, we cant reasonably be expected to know the disassembly procedure for your car!

Post by **stipud** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 8:13 pm

gkitching wrote:I would consider putting the tweets in the little sail panel at the top of the door. If you're concerned about screwing something up and then the cost of replacing it, that little sail panel would only run a couple of bucks where as the door panel would run a couple of hundred.

I like this idea. The area is flat, and you could flush mount them (if there is enough depth) or surface mount them (if not) very easily. Just a trip to the junkyard to get a spare set for a buck or two.

ooober60 · Post by **ooober60** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:12 am

stipud wrote:
gkitching wrote:I would consider putting the tweets in the little sail panel at the top of the door. If you're concerned about screwing something up and then the cost of replacing it, that little sail panel would only run a couple of bucks where as the door panel would run a couple of hundred.
I like this idea. The area is flat, and you could flush mount them (if there is enough depth) or surface mount them (if not) very easily. Just a trip to the junkyard to get a spare set for a buck or two.

this is what im planning on doing.. after i figure out how to get mydoor panels off

ooober60 · Post by **ooober60** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:39 am

Hey guys. I havent posted here in a while but I was hoping you guys could help me out one more time. So for chirstmas I was hoping to get all my stuff bought and installed. This is on my list:

http://www.audiosavings.com/product_det ... d9935b2d6d

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fus ... ct_ID=4874

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetai ... ID=KOL-AK8

Are these good sites to buy from or is there somewhere where I can buy them cheaper? Also, how long to things normally take to ship? Thanks guys

Post by **Rold Gold** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:52 am

I'd look into a different amp and 4g wiring kit so that way you can add/change gear down the road without having to re-wire yer car.

Check out ebay..... I'd buy stuff there first.

Post by **Bfowler** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:16 am

no no no no no no no no! PASS on the profile amp.

a used PG tantrum 300.2 would destroy that, or even the ryvals would a great idea.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PHOENIX-GOLD-V1502- ... 240%3A1318

plus if you do the math on specs of the profile amp 20 amp fuse * 14.4 volts = 288watts x 2 (for the duel fuses) 576watts MAX (not the claimed 600) and that is assuming 100% efficacy (
...its probably closer to 70 (which is still being generious for 2 channel amps) making it about 411 MAX watts.

the PG amp is fused for 2 x 35 and is MUCH cleaner.

friends don't let friends buy profile.

harobkr90 · Post by **harobkr90** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:17 am

i just got in thursday this 4gauge kit from knuknoceptz.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetai ... dID=KLM-K4
i ordered tuesday night and had it in my hands thursday.
for only 3bucks more!

ooober60 · Post by **ooober60** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:44 am

ok so a 4 gauge kit and that amp on ebay is a good set?

Post by **Bfowler** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:50 am

you will be set mang. the rsd's will LOVE that extra power, (and the amp will love the extra power its getting from the battery) and you are stitting at about $13 different then your original plan.

ooober60 · Post by **ooober60** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:51 am

Money isn't really a big problem for me since I will most likely be getting these from my parents from Christmas anyways.

harobkr90 · Post by **harobkr90** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:40 am

money isn't a problem?

TIME FOR OVERKILL

Post by **Bfowler** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:44 am

lol in that case...some genesis amps might be on order

ooober60 · Post by **ooober60** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 3:48 pm

nah ill just stick with these