My new toy! Iota dls-55 Power Supply

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:21 pm

So, I know alot of u guys already have nice ps, but this is the first one for me, and I got such a deal on it today at the local pawn shop-65bux! granted it only goes upto 13.6 volts dc, it does what I need it to do, and that is check amps for power, output, after tinkering with them- I want to thank jacampb2, and Cojones for their Input and suggestions- I wanted to get a Pyramid ps; but evrytime I went to bid on a nice one on the bay (starting from 10-20 bux) they usually ended up arounf 30-50 range, none the less I called Iota, spoke to a tech guy, and even he couldnt believe it was at a pawn shop for 65-he said ita almost a five year old model, but it looks clean, and works PERFECT!!!

Post by **stipud** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:24 pm

Get yourself a proper black wire before you fuck something up

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:32 pm

hahahaha, yes, yes i know , but thats what i had laying around- i think im gonna go to the shack and just grab some gator clips with wire going from one end to the other-( they sale a bag of 4, 1 red, 1 balck, 1 green, 1 yellow-( but to cover the bases , i twisted the power and remote together so I WOULDNT screw up, but theres still time!!!!!

Thumper88 · Post by **Thumper88** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 5:35 pm

not bad, not bad.

I got my cascade 75 amp for $50...lol.
Dude said it wasn't working, I was prepared to fix it, but it works great.

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:45 pm

i think more cb/ham radios guys use these, and they use alot of higher frequencies,which makes me wonder if thats why they give them an issue??? i dont know, i only know so much, and am still learning-btw, i just picked up 2 gator clamps from the shack , rated@ handeling 40amps current, so i may go ahead and come up with a wiring of them from the ps 2 an amp-(one is REd, one is BLACK; this ps has the screw down output terminals; gonna have 'em screwed in , then the gator clamps at the end, for easy "snap on, snap off when checking amps-

Post by **Jacampb2** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 10:54 am

Looks good! Fuse the power though, I think that supply is only current limited at it's max output. You could destroy an amp before the supply limits current...

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:07 am

yeah ive already checked four amps, no issues(except my zx450 had no output- front/rear rca inputs show no resistance?????), and yeah i thought about it, im just gonna pick up some 8gauge, and a small 20amp ato fuse( i have an extra ato fuse holder layn around someplace; im not crancking out to max either via the ipod; more like im trying to HEAR a difference between amps(kinda why im pissed about the zx450,oh well....electronics

Grim0013 · Post by **Grim0013** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:11 am

Didn't think of that. I'll have to swing by the pawn shop next week and see if I can luck into a decent PS too. Of course, the trick is leaving the pawn shop without buying another gun.

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:22 am

hear u on that, i saw a pretty decent s&w( knockoff, kinda glouck looking handgun), its worth a shot 2 check the pawn shops; i went to 3, first 2 said they normally had them, but lots of people recently been buying'em up, so they said

nico boom · Post by **nico boom** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:22 am

You also could use a 1 Farad capacitor connected to it, to minimize ripple, since it's a switching power-supply.
I have a automatic one connected to my 120A ps as well.
Makes it easier on the power supply in your amps to deliver a clean current.... so I'm told by someone who drives a SAAB...

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:27 am

didnt think aboout the cap...., hmmmm....., Wish we had a 3 car garage, so I can stop using the kitchen table(dont u just luv my map of the states?, I guess my wife thinks I may forget whats where, or she may quiz me on the capitals one day-lol

( it has soldering holes evrywhere

nico boom · Post by **nico boom** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:33 am

thedeal7235 wrote:didnt think aboout the cap...., hmmmm....., Wish we had a 3 car garage, so I can stop using the kitchen table(dont u just luv my map of the states?, I guess my wife thinks I may forget whats where, or she may quiz me on the capitals one day-lol ( it has soldering holes evrywhere

HAHA! Know the problem.. I always have a deadline when working on amps; in the morning the table I work on has to be used for breakfast again

.

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:38 am

hahahahahaha, EXACTLY Nico, btw, do u fuse before the amp as Jason has suggested? I guess u cant be too safe?! hes never steered me wrong once, always VERY Helpful, so i think im gonna go get me some 8 gauge ( currently using 12gauge, and get the ato 40 amp fuse for the fuse holder I already have-

nico boom · Post by **nico boom** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:46 am

...FUSE IT.

I added a 60A fuse between the wire coming from the ps and the positive powerbar on the side of my audio-rack; when it blows, something's really wrong..

[better safe than sorry].

GX3 · Post by **GX3** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:23 pm

nico boom wrote:You also could use a 1 Farad capacitor connected to it, to minimize ripple, since it's a switching power-supply.
I have a automatic one connected to my 120A ps as well.
Makes it easier on the power supply in your amps to deliver a clean current.... so I'm told by someone who drives a SAAB...

have you ever figured how much electricity it take per Hr to run that Ps..... I am going to start putting a home system together and was wondering how much the big Ps will consume

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:48 pm

No clue, i think the longest ive played it, at moderate levels, has been 2-3 hours-

nico boom · Post by **nico boom** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:16 pm

Switching power supplies have a very efficient way of transforming.
If you look at the conventional ps ,the transformer ones use a lot of current continously, plus having a very poor efficiency,therefore they produce a lot of heat.
Switching ones only start to use current when power is demanded on the regulated side; they stay cool because of their very high efficiency.
Most of them having no heatsinks, but temp. regulated fans.
I have yet not heard the fans in my ps making any extra revs because of any heat produced in it while I'm listening to my install, with 3 MS2250's playing.
I have stopped using BIG, HEAVY oldfashioned PS's.
Go for a switched one with like 70A, and in most cases you'll be fine.
[I bought my 120A one for the project I'm working on now]

GX3 · Post by **GX3** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:09 am

nico boom wrote:Switching power supplies have a very efficient way of transforming.
If you look at the conventional ps ,the transformer ones use a lot of current continously, plus having a very poor efficiency,therefore they produce a lot of heat.
Switching ones only start to use current when power is demanded on the regulated side; they stay cool because of their very high efficiency.
Most of them having no heatsinks, but temp. regulated fans.
I have yet not heard the fans in my ps making any extra revs because of any heat produced in it while I'm listening to my install, with 3 MS2250's playing.
I have stopped using BIG, HEAVY oldfashioned PS's.
Go for a switched one with like 70A, and in most cases you'll be fine.
[I bought my 120A one for the project I'm working on now]

Thanks thats a big help knowing what to look for now i just have find and price one out