ti block question...

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mhyde71
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ti block question...

Post by mhyde71 »

some of you may know that I am up the creek with this here d-block issue I have myself into (wrong d-block - need four outs not 2)...

but it dawned on me that given I have the powercore, all i really need is a fuse block perhaps... I can distribute off the powercore, but would then still be in need of fused protection for the amp's.

Question #1: Joerg pointed out or thought that maybe the p.core has fuses in it for it's outputs? does/can anyone confirm that, and if so can they be changed...
In Lieu of that, that there are no fuses in the pcore... all i really would need is a fuse block 4-4ga in -> to -> 4-4ga out (fused)...

SOOO Question #2) is there such a beast?? A unit that has the Ti-Finish... guess it'd be a Ti finished fuse-block??? Cant recall ever seeing one... might someone know of that and/or have one for sale/avail???

pls thx
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stipud
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Post by stipud »

Powercore doesn't have built in fuses. I would just use an in-line before each amp. The closer the fuse the better.
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Post by Bfowler »

yeah, i have never heard of anything like that, even in the dealer book. i'm with tom, just but 4 regular fuse holders and put em out of sight
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vin78
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Post by vin78 »

IIRC Erin told me that fuses before the PC is optional (although must be fused @ batt) and fuses after the cap is not recommended
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mhyde71
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Post by mhyde71 »

vin78 wrote:fuses after the cap is not recommended
really...? never would have thought... so does that mean that if one uses a PC that a fused d-block is NOT "recomended"???

i dont get... I am lost then.... b/c as the PC is "multi-functional" (i.e. cap and d-block), how does one fuse the amps properly if not recomended after the core???
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mhyde71
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Post by mhyde71 »

so should I use something like this for the inline... or smaller...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Phoenix-Gold-100A ... 240%3A1318

hard to keep inconspicious with like that... but it is / that even done? has anyone else done inline fuse process with amps like that?? never even considered it...
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Post by vin78 »

Not totally sure, I guess because of the burst of current that the PC can produce the fuse might pop?

I didnt get much details about it when I asked him about how to properly wire the cap. It made sense to me, so I didnt enquire much about it.

Honestly, in your set-up all you really need is a fuse at the battery. I had a similar set-up in the past, and just used 1 main fuse at the battery.

You could put a fuse block after the cap if you like to see if the fuse blows?
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Post by vin78 »

If you really need a fuse block with multiple inputs most of the PG ti 4 way blocks has 3 inputs.
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Post by stipud »

vin78 wrote:If you really need a fuse block with multiple inputs most of the PG ti 4 way blocks has 3 inputs.
Though they are wired in parallel... you might as well just wire the powercore into that block with 0g, and leave all the 4g connectors unhooked.

Matt, your MS amps have built in fuses anyways, so you don't need to do jack.
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Post by mhyde71 »

stipud wrote:
vin78 wrote: Matt, your MS amps have built in fuses anyways, so you don't need to do jack.
I wondered about that... Prob is perhaps for me and I am only thinking premptively... But those amps are fucked up to get in out, just actually really ackward to get inside to the board. Have to remove them from their suspension, and all that... so if a fuse was to blow, i'd have to get inside... but playing devils advocate, perhaps it would still be a non-issue given I have yet to blow a fuse since I installed all the gear anyways.

Right? WOuldn't that be indicitive that chances of fuse blowing are next to nothing??? seeing how I havent blown one yet?
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Post by mhyde71 »

vin78 wrote:If you really need a fuse block with multiple inputs most of the PG ti 4 way blocks has 3 inputs.
in same breath though... 3 is ecatly all I would need/like- for inputs anyways... just hate to have the ground- which I dont need either techinically as I can use PC for that as well...

So.. geese... But then as equipment is removed and dropped from the equation, it starts to not get/be quite as pretty looking and the cool factor has been reduced... :shock:
Removing the gear makes for less of it... consequentaly maybe less is better functionaly-wise... but I think what you loose functionaly speaking, one makes up for it in asthetics... IMO -no?? maybe?? I'm fucked?? i dunno?
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Post by fuzzysnuggleduck »

Fuses are only supposed to blow when things go wrong. They are a safety net, a protection mechanism. We don't install them expecting them to blow. We install them expecting they will not blow, unless something goes wrong.

The question of accessible fuses is entirely up to you. Do you carry spare fuses in the car? Is driving home with a blown fuse after an incident going to bother you or is it ok if you have to go home and spend some time getting the amps open to replace the fuses?

I have one fuse at the battery and then my amps, DD5 and HU are individually fused through their own built-in mechanisms. No other external fuses or fuse blocks. No failures yet. I'm willing to live with the pain of having to remove one of my amps if a fuse blows in the back, but that's just me.

If you're competing, you will want highly accessible fuses as it's part of the IASCA (SQ, SPL or both?) judging process I believe.
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Post by stipud »

If you put in accessible fuses, it would probably blow the internal ones anyways, so it really doesn't matter.

Generally you don't blow fuses if you don't mess with things. Just be nice and careful hooking up the powercore, and I'm sure you'll be fine.
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Post by ttocs »

I agree that the fuses are there to protect if something goes wrong. So what I like to consider is what will happen if the wire I am running shorts out. I you only have one fuse at the battery and the wire goes to the power core, what will happen if the wire grounds out at the firewall? The fuse by the battery will certianly blow, but the power core is still completely shorted out and will throw a couple of sparks and make some heat somewhere. Now what happens if the output of the PC gets grounded out between the PC and the amp? will the fuse under the hood blow and protect everything? I was not aware that the PC had any kind of fuses on the inside of them so if the power wires into and out-of the PC are not fused and end up shorting out I would not like to be inside the vehicle while it was running but it would be fun to watch(since its not my car).
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Post by kg1961 »

I have seen your old install
if you had a glass fuse(or something) in the 2 areas the ms275 are that easy to hide
how close is your box to the rear of your seats? you could make something that looked good if you drop the seat and still use it?
just a idea
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Post by mhyde71 »

seats go somewhat pretty much flush with the box...
but yeah, i'm sure i could come up with somethinng... that looks decent... like flush with the floor or something behind the box or up with all the other accessories that will be going in...

and now that i think about it.. i did have one fuse blow back when i had green ta. same wiring and stuff back then, just different positioning for amps.. so I have to partially retract that earlier comment about never having a blown fuse before... happened once with green TA.
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