rscecil007 wrote:Someone posted a how-to install from Don over at sounddeadener showdown on the tacoma boards. I'll try to find it for you.
If I remember reading his instructions right, the ccf and mlv are not supposed to be bonded together, that's where my statement came from and thinking them being bonded together wasn't a good idea.
But for my situation, I think the lower cost and higher convenience of the combined material outweigh the disadvantages. I am not looking to be perfect... anything would be better than the nothing I have now!
rscecil007 wrote:Someone posted a how-to install from Don over at sounddeadener showdown on the tacoma boards. I'll try to find it for you.
If I remember reading his instructions right, the ccf and mlv are not supposed to be bonded together, that's where my statement came from and thinking them being bonded together wasn't a good idea.
But for my situation, I think the lower cost and higher convenience of the combined material outweigh the disadvantages. I am not looking to be perfect... anything would be better than the nothing I have now!
Oh I totally understand that, trust me.
Just wasnt' aware of this when I did my truck, and kinda wish I had just so I could have weighed out that option. Didn't want you being in the same situation.
Whatever you do, will be better than your bare naked doors.
j/k
"Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity."
I really like the raammat as far as overall value for a mass layer. I havent worked with fatmat in years but it used to all be asphalt based and really stink. I would imagine they have stepped their game up to a button based product by now, but something to look out for.
Either way you end up going on deadened I would highly recommend using a closed cell foam layer as well. There truly is a synergistic gain when you pair the two together.
rscecil007 wrote:Someone posted a how-to install from Don over at sounddeadener showdown on the tacoma boards. I'll try to find it for you.
If I remember reading his instructions right, the ccf and mlv are not supposed to be bonded together, that's where my statement came from and thinking them being bonded together wasn't a good idea.
But for my situation, I think the lower cost and higher convenience of the combined material outweigh the disadvantages. I am not looking to be perfect... anything would be better than the nothing I have now!
Don at SDS has a great system, the product is as high quality as it gets. I have some here. His approach is to do it smarter and more efficient, where as most everyone else goes with the idea of covering every square inch. Don is fairly local to me, so I see the product and talk to him on a regular basis. Most all of the top guys on my site (SSAudio) use the SDS product.
Well,
I say the more the better..... Make the trip, get yer fix of car audio and then I'll be happy to smash yer ass on the BEERPONG table.....
Those tender little burgers with them little, itty-bitty grilled onions that just explode in ya mouth like flavor crystals every time you bite into one.. just makes me want to burn this muthafuka down.... Come on, Pookie, let's burn this muthafuka down!!!
its really nothing to worry about and if you have some friends to enjoy the time with can be fun.
My only recomendations is to keep track of where the panels lock onto the doors and where the screws go through. If you can cut a small area of it away to make it easy to find when you put the panel back on.
I know the maker of second skin said that you didn't even need to clean the panels but I always at least wiped them down. The old asphault dynamat would fail to hold on after some time but I have not seen this problem from second skin.
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
haha, nice. we should be able to bust this out fast! i have all the tools we will need, but we might buy another roller. i should be good a practiced too....this is what i was up to all weekend
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my ex-girlfriend said "its car audio or me"
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
To cover those door panel holes, I picked up a neat trick from RAAM... he suggests using screen door mesh siliconed to the door panel, which gives you a good surface to stick the material to, without having to screw aluminum panels onto the doors.
stipud wrote:To cover those door panel holes, I picked up a neat trick from RAAM... he suggests using screen door mesh siliconed to the door panel, which gives you a good surface to stick the material to, without having to screw aluminum panels onto the doors.
Tom,
Another option you can also do is use the corrugated plastic signs from a hardware store, like the ones you see at street corners advertising yard sales, elections campaigns, blah blah.
I picked up one at lowe's for $6 or so, and was able to do both my doors with it. I stuck mine on with double sided 3M tape, worked pretty well.
EDIT: Obviously you cut the cardboard to fit over the holes in the door, just to make that clear. Not that anyone was thinking I stuck a whole freaking plastic sign on my door as another layer or something....
Last edited by rscecil007 on Tue May 18, 2010 9:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity."
...........................
I got acouple rollers to bring down.
Those tender little burgers with them little, itty-bitty grilled onions that just explode in ya mouth like flavor crystals every time you bite into one.. just makes me want to burn this muthafuka down.... Come on, Pookie, let's burn this muthafuka down!!!
I used Fatmat on my early vehicles and SecondSkin products on my Infiniti. Without a doubt, go with Secondskin. The adhesive is great and you don't get the same smell like Fatmat....
bruther wrote:I used Fatmat on my early vehicles and SecondSkin products on my Infiniti. Without a doubt, go with Secondskin. The adhesive is great and you don't get the same smell like Fatmat....
This definitely brings back memories of stripping out my Scion Tc and deadening. The doors were the worst part hands down. I ended up doing the aluminum flashing along with short self-tapping sheet metal screws and expanding foam here and there. Total night and day difference with the RSD mids, and my doors have a nice and helfty dead thwack to 'em now.
bruther wrote:I used Fatmat on my early vehicles and SecondSkin products on my Infiniti. Without a doubt, go with Secondskin. The adhesive is great and you don't get the same smell like Fatmat....
nobody listens here for some reason. I tried as well.
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
I wouldn't flame ya Bri and I too love DE but my budget says this:
SS damplifier pro $160 36.5^ X3 = $480 plus shipping
SS Spectrum $300 100^ plus $30 for the spray gun
Dynamat Extreme $135 36^ x3 = $400
FATMAT $130 shipped 100^ @ 50mil / 50^ @ 100mil
Not that I don't listen or read yer post ttoc's but unless yer gonna buy it for me......
Trust me, I'd like to use some spectrum as it looks awesome as hell and I know it works great.... I'd luv to have the entire car covered in LINE-X too but can't afford that either.....
BEST BANG FOR THE BUK IMO has to be the FM......From what I've read, The smell goes away after a month or so and we don't get over 100* around here very often.....We'll take extra care to apply it the right way....
Last edited by Rold Gold on Tue May 18, 2010 8:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Those tender little burgers with them little, itty-bitty grilled onions that just explode in ya mouth like flavor crystals every time you bite into one.. just makes me want to burn this muthafuka down.... Come on, Pookie, let's burn this muthafuka down!!!
I use to use extreme, also had my hands on fatmat and brown bread and a few others. I made my decision when I hada piece of each product in my hand and was able to make my decision. The damplifier pro make extreme look like the original dynomat when you are holding 2nd skin in the other hand, there really is no compairison and I will use nothing less on any of my own vehicles until I find something better.
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
Just got my order of RAAMmat in. Ordered a roll of BXT and 3 yards of the peal and stick ensolite.
I opened the box, checked the square footage of the deadener (I'm a numbers kind of guy)....37.5 sq ft. They sent me the BXT II instead of the BXT...which is more expensive. I guess I'm cool with that.
The RAAMmat BXT II appears to be priced to compete with secondskin damplifier (not the pro).
Damplifier is 40 mil and BXT II is 65 mil.
Damplifier is .35 lbs per sq ft and BXT II is .52 lbs per sq ft
40 sq ft of Damplifier is $104.98 and 37.5 sq ft of BXT II is $129.96
Shipping estimates to me for Damplifier was $20.58 and BXT II was $20.54
A while back I used a fair share of the older BXT and ensolite, both personally and at a shop I used to run. I'm not sure on pricing now, but at the time I felt strongly that RAAMmat was one of the best values available in sound treatment materials.
That's been a few years though, and there's new players in the deadener game. Hell, at the time I remember referring people to SDS just as a reference site that I felt supported my opinions on RAAMmat! Obviously Don has parlayed the web traffic into a business. At first it struck me as if he were just trying to make a quick buck, but after thinking about it, I'm all for it. I bet that Don's, Rick's (RAAMmat) and Ant's (SecondSkin) customers all benefit greatly from dealing with entrepreneurs that are both knowledgeable and passionate about their products and applications. I know I've learned a bit from each of them!
