Q&A for me

[Eric D]

no protection mode shuts the amp down to keep it from blowing. You should be able to take the speaker wires, short them out and the light will come on and the amp will be fine.

This is just in theory though. I have seen some amps work just fine with this situation, but I have seen others go "poof". My results have been pretty brand independent as well.

PG amps seem to try and play music out of that speaker wire, but end up cooking in the process. But sometimes they do go into overload and protect themselves.

[00goobs]

I've direct shorted a 600.2 by accident and it went into protection until the 4th or 5th attempt. It seemed to work well until it burned the output transistors. I've had a few accidents and my TI amps haven't had any other issues aside from when I direct shorted and tried to turn the amp up...


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[Drock]

I was curious about this because I just pulled out my jl audio C3650's and put my ti6 comps in today. My JL's clipped at about half volume, but the ti's will take it all the way up. I was worried about blowing the JL's and then burning up my 500.4.

I got my drivers door all deadened today . Thanks to mike for hooking me up with the deadener. I can't believe how solid the door sounds now. And the ti6 is amazing. It's the hardest hitting 6" I've ever heard. I also managed to tilt the tweeter so it's almost pointing straight at me. Made a huge difference. I also still have a set of ti tweets in the A pillars to raise the stage. Even without the subs on, it pounds pretty good. So far it sound better than I have ever had.
Thanks for all the advice from everyone.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1350354820.871012.jpg (109.8 KiB) Viewed 8890 times

Deadened inside and out.
Hope I can get the other door done tomorrow if its warm enough.

[kg1961]

man you sent me a text about doing your door but that like 40pound per door in matting..lol
if you need the link i will lokk it up for some more.
As for Erics post that what i said about Pg amps ..

[Drock]

It was actually closer to 8lbs including the driver. I'm not to concerned with the weight anyway as I pull a 6000lbs trailer everywhere I go. Lol

[Drock]

Kind of scared to bring this up, I've been reading all the threads on caps. I don't want a debate on them. I just would like feedback on my install.
I have used caps in smaller systems, just to help with the dancing lights. And I know this works because typically the main wire run is to small in these budget systems. However my system will not be small by any means. I want to go all out because I want to and I can. Until I joined this Phorum I did not even know there was a power core15 or 20. I recently acquired one and will have a second soon I hope. I will be opening them up right away to make sure they are ok.

My electrical upgrade:
I have done the big three in 2/0 which is huge. I added a second deep cycle battery and upgraded all wiring to 0ga. I have 2 0ga runs to the distros. And charging is now handled by a 250amp alt. now I'm telling this because I think it was Stipid that said the cap will work with the right system. I think my power supply is good. This is a 3/4 ton truck with 2 big ass batteries. With two ti500.4's and two ti800.1's currently installed there are no signs of power shortages, no dimming lights. Changed out the last of the old jl comps yesterday. So there is three sets of Ti comps installed now. And with the avicz140bh h/u. It's pretty clean sounding.
I want to add two more ti800.1's. One for each ti10d4.
With this setup. Would you say I could benefit from using the pc15's. And if so, how and where would I put them? If like its been mentioned in other threads that it can help filter noise would I put the pc15's on the 500's? Or use them two ti800 on each pc15? Would two 800's be to much for pc15? If I did that would the cap then be more of a problem in the system. I know the 800's are more than enough for the subs I'm using, so not sure there is a benefit there other than the pc15 is just fn cool.



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[Drock]

Just had another though. Ttocs mention earlier on another thread, something about a battery isolator.
I am unclear what the difference between an isolator and a solonoid is. And what are the proper uses? I have installed a solonoid before my second battery. Under the recommendation of a mechanic guy. He said that gm has a isolator installed at the altinator from factory.


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[Drock]

I'm curious, I've read different ideas on powering big subs. The one that is interesting is people keep suggesting running an amp to each coil of say a 1600 watt rms DVC sub. I did not even think this could be done. Has anyone ever actually done this? What happens if the amps are not perfectly matched? What happens to the sub? How would you match the amps outputs perfect?
I was advised by someone I trust 100% that it was smarter to just buy a big class d amp.


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[ttocs]

they both do the same thing just have different ways/advantages of doing it. In a nut-shell all they do is connect the two batteries to allow them to charge with the key on and seperate them with the key off so that you can either use one with out worrying about draining the other. The PG isolators are the Diode/solid state type of electronics. The advantage to this system is that it is all solid state electronics with no moving parts so they should last for damn near ever with no moving parts. The disadvantage is that like all diodes they drop .7 volts across them when they are working so you end up dropping .7 volts from the alt to the battery. The only other advantage of the selenoid to speak is that they are smaller.

[LowandLoud]

A PG battery isolator showed up on the Bay today

[Drock]

A PG battery isolator showed up on the Bay today

Thanks. I'm still not sure i need one yet

[ttocs]

if you are doing two batteries it is better if you do. If ya do hit me up I have a couple extra....

[RobertJr79]

I'm curious, I've read different ideas on powering big subs. The one that is interesting is people keep suggesting running an amp to each coil of say a 1600 watt rms DVC sub. I did not even think this could be done. Has anyone ever actually done this? What happens if the amps are not perfectly matched? What happens to the sub? How would you match the amps outputs perfect?
I was advised by someone I trust 100% that it was smarter to just buy a big class d amp.


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I would also think a single amp would be better then one per coil, but if you wanted to try it and have 2 amp that strap-able that could also work one. I never did this but I think you just set the master amp and the slave runs off the master. But I never tried this so I could be wrong.

[Drock]

if you are doing two batteries it is better if you do. If ya do hit me up I have a couple extra....

But if I already have a solenoid, didn't you already say they do the same thing?

[Drock]

I'm curious, I've read different ideas on powering big subs. The one that is interesting is people keep suggesting running an amp to each coil of say a 1600 watt rms DVC sub. I did not even think this could be done. Has anyone ever actually done this? What happens if the amps are not perfectly matched? What happens to the sub? How would you match the amps outputs perfect?
I was advised by someone I trust 100% that it was smarter to just buy a big class d amp.


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I would also think a single amp would be better then one per coil, but if you wanted to try it and have 2 amp that strap-able that could also work one. I never did this but I think you just set the master amp and the slave runs off the master. But I never tried this so I could be wrong.

Well, looked it stapping two ti800.1's as they are the only ones that can do it.
A) strapped I believe that would be 1600watts rms. if the sub (it's a dd 12 I think it's a 3500 series. I could be wrong) is 1600rms. Even strapped I think that the stared 800's would not be enough.
B) I don't really understand what's going on with the amps when they are strap able. From what I understand, strapping amps is like adding a turbo charger. It will give a lot more power, but might decrease the life of two amps.
I would love to try it, but it would kill me if I fucked up two perfect amps. I think the 800's are just to small to bother.
C) one rsd1200.1 will do 1300 on its own, so it's so close to the power needed for the dd. running one RSD to each coil sounds cool. But I see it not working out so well. And I've been told there are lots of huge class d amp out there. So I'll keep looking.

[RobertJr79]

I'm curious, I've read different ideas on powering big subs. The one that is interesting is people keep suggesting running an amp to each coil of say a 1600 watt rms DVC sub. I did not even think this could be done. Has anyone ever actually done this? What happens if the amps are not perfectly matched? What happens to the sub? How would you match the amps outputs perfect?
I was advised by someone I trust 100% that it was smarter to just buy a big class d amp.


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I would also think a single amp would be better then one per coil, but if you wanted to try it and have 2 amp that strap-able that could also work one. I never did this but I think you just set the master amp and the slave runs off the master. But I never tried this so I could be wrong.

Well, looked it stapping two ti800.1's as they are the only ones that can do it.
A) strapped I believe that would be 1600watts rms. if the sub (it's a dd 12 I think it's a 3500 series. I could be wrong) is 1600rms. Even strapped I think that the stared 800's would not be enough.
B) I don't really understand what's going on with the amps when they are strap able. From what I understand, strapping amps is like adding a turbo charger. It will give a lot more power, but might decrease the life of two amps.
I would love to try it, but it would kill me if I fucked up two perfect amps. I think the 800's are just to small to bother.
C) one rsd1200.1 will do 1300 on its own, so it's so close to the power needed for the dd. running one RSD to each coil sounds cool. But I see it not working out so well. And I've been told there are lots of huge class d amp out there. So I'll keep looking.

I think you have the 3512, from what I can tell from the picture. You can strap two 800 for 1600 watts at 4 ohms. Where what I found last night. Ya maybe you're better off finding a 2-2500 rms amp for the DD subs, its a monster subs and power hungry. You can try the 1200.1 and see what happens.

[RobertJr79]

Never mind I saw looked at it again and its for a single coil sub and not a dual coil.

[Drock]

Does anyone have any of the blue led's for a power core? I bought mine off a member a little while ago. I just wanted to try it out today so I decided to open it up just to be on the safe side. All looks good to me so I'm a bit relieved. But one of the things I did notice was with the cover on it looked like a led was missing. When I opened it up to check the led was just pushed in. But one leg was busted off.

[audiophyle_247]

Strapping amps that are designed to function that way is no harder on the amp then running it at 2ohms.
Think about a 2 ch amp, inside the channels are actually backwards of each other. When you bridge the 2ch one channel becomes a positive output and the second becomes the negative. Since each channel can now dedicate its entire transistor array to a single polarity the output essentially doubles, and you are not working them any harder than you would in stereo. Strapping amps is essentially the same concept, except each channel you are bridging just happens to be in separate amp cases, effectively bridging a huge 2ch amp into a single channel. It does not make the amps work any harder, it just alters the polarities of the transistors so they all work together in each amp making one amp a pos speak lead & the second a neg speaker lead.

You can run any sub & voice coil configuration you want with the amps strapped, so long as the final impedance the amp sees stays at 4ohms.

If you cannot get a 4ohm final load (ie have a dual 4ohm sub), you could run 1 amp to each voice coil unstrapped but you need to use a DMM to set the gains so both amps are putting out as close to the same amount of power as possible (aka "gain matching"). The signals on each voice coil do not need to be exact, just as close as possible. Setting it up will take a little extra time, but a great option if strapping isn't possible. (Not very many amps are strappable)

[audiophyle_247]

LEDs should just be 3mm ones, pretty easy to find but you should replace all 3 at the same time due to how they are wired (all 3 need to be identical).

The battery solenoid you have is fine, you don't need to get a PG isolator. I actually prefer solenoids over solid state isolators anyway.

[Drock]

Thanks for the info. I am going to lookup more info on strapping the ti 800.1's

[Drock]

Finally have some power for building a sound board in the shop as soon as it built.

Kinetic 80 amp power supply. Thanks for the suggestion DVNT.

[dvnt88]

^^^^ Anytime Bro ...great unit and works like a charm , especially when you add a battery if ur gonna test or run anything pulling more than 80amps ...just a heads up.

[Drock]

I picked up two yellow top optima batteries a couple weeks ago. And with two pc15's I'm sure I will have no power issues.

[Drock]

Grrrr, I just went to try out the power supply and to my surprise the plug won't fit the wall receptical. What did you do with yours? Did you run into this issue?