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Block fuses?
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 7:36 am
by baddog671
I bought a KnuKonceptz block and instead of sending me two 120amp mini-ANL fuses, I received a 120 and a 150.
I assume that this wont cause any problems and that one route will simply have a higher rated fuse than the other?
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 7:43 am
by joerg
What gauge wire are u runnig of that 150 Amps fuse?
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 7:44 am
by baddog671
zero
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 7:45 am
by joerg
No problem! You could use up to 200 Amp fuses!
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:01 am
by baddog671
Ok, well, if I'm running a 0gauge wire up to the block, and a short piece of 4gauge up to my amp, I should use the 150amp route then? I'm not going to abuse it just yet...
Eventually I'll probably use the other route, I guess the 120amp, for my other amp which runs my components. Sound good?
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:05 am
by joerg
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Do not fuse your 4 gauge with 150 Amps!
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:08 am
by baddog671
Cliffs please?
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:15 am
by joerg
What the heck are cliffs?
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:15 am
by baddog671
cliff notes
I'm a newb, thats all greek to me
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:24 am
by joerg
The easiest way is to convert the gauge crap into the metric system! Take the metric number and multiply it by 4 and u have the max size fuze to use with your cable
AWG 0 is metric 53.5mm²
53.5mm² x 4 ís 215
So the maximum size fuse is 215 Amps But because there is no such fuse u take 200Amps max.
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:31 am
by baddog671
Well that wasnt an option given to me by that company. Largest they carried was 150....
Regardless though, like I said I'm a newb, and what you said made no sense to me becuase I have no concept of how amps work..
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:36 am
by joerg
You can always take a smaller fuse! But if u take a bigger one your cable might fail because of thermal destruction if u draw a too high current for too long.
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:40 am
by baddog671
Would 120 be ok then?
And i dont know if I worded this correctly or not earlier, but this isn't an "in-line" fuse, it is in the distribution block. 0 gauge in, fuse, 4 gauge out...
120 better be ok, or i'm going to have a bad day
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 9:07 am
by joerg
3 or 4 gauge is almost eqaul to 25mm² in the metric system
If u have a 0 gauge input a inline 200Amps fuse is fine for that part!
You decrease the gauge size after the input to 4 gauge what makes it
25mm² x 4 is 100Amps
I wouldn´t use a bigger fuse than 100Amps for your 4 gauge wire!!!
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 9:21 am
by baddog671
I bought a 0gauge PG kit, it comes with 250amp (two 125's)
Can I buy 100amp mini-ANL fuses locally, or am I going to be screwed and have to find some on the internet?
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 9:52 am
by joerg
Is the zero gauge wire connected to input and output sides???
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 1:38 pm
by baddog671
On the block? Only input..
If you mean something else, I don't know what your talking about...
I'm about ready just to put everything in the garbage and do something else
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 1:57 pm
by joerg
Take a pic of how u want to install it!
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 2:10 pm
by dBincognito
Do you have a inline fuse ?
you need 1....under the hood....then another within 18 inches of your amps
This sounds all wrong to me....you don't fuse according to wire size!!!!!!
You fuse according to the amperage that will be drawn....what is the total rated RMS power for the system ?
You should have seperate fuses for each amp as well as a inline fuse on the 0 gauge
Wire size only determines how easily the current will be able to move from point to another......and hopefully your ground is 0 gauge b/c all of the power in your car actually moves through the negative not the positive side
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 2:31 pm
by dBincognito
Personally.....I suggest circuit breaker's....they are more expensive....but worth the money.
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 2:37 pm
by joerg
The fuses in this block do not protect the 0 gauge wire at the input side! Those fuses are there to protect the wire at the output side. If u use a wire that is 4 gauge the max constant current the wire can transmitt to your amp is 100Amps! Everything above that may cause thermal destruction of the wire! That´s why u use a 100Amps fuse for a 4 gauge wire!
This means u run a 50mm² wire with an inline fuse of 200Amps from your batterie to the distro block! If u got a distro with 2 outputs u should put two fuses with 100Amps in there and run a 25mm² from each output to the two amps u have!
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 3:12 pm
by ttocs
dBincognito wrote:Do you have a inline fuse ?
you need 1....under the hood....then another within 18 inches of your amps
This sounds all wrong to me....you don't fuse according to wire size!!!!!!
You fuse according to the amperage that will be drawn....what is the total rated RMS power for the system ?
You should have seperate fuses for each amp as well as a inline fuse on the 0 gauge
Wire size only determines how easily the current will be able to move from point to another......and hopefully your ground is 0 gauge b/c all of the power in your car actually moves through the negative not the positive side
why 18 inches from the amp? thats new to me. I was always taught that the only fuse that was reqired was at the battery. There have only been a couple of occasions where amps are not fused internally and would have needed one directly infront of it.
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 3:17 pm
by dBincognito
ttocs wrote:dBincognito wrote:Do you have a inline fuse ?
you need 1....under the hood....then another within 18 inches of your amps
This sounds all wrong to me....you don't fuse according to wire size!!!!!!
You fuse according to the amperage that will be drawn....what is the total rated RMS power for the system ?
You should have seperate fuses for each amp as well as a inline fuse on the 0 gauge
Wire size only determines how easily the current will be able to move from point to another......and hopefully your ground is 0 gauge b/c all of the power in your car actually moves through the negative not the positive side
why 18 inches from the amp? thats new to me. I was always taught that the only fuse that was reqired was at the battery. There have only been a couple of occasions where amps are not fused internally and would have needed one directly infront of it.
You should fuse as close as physically possible to your amp.....THESE ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT FUSES.....if you get rear ended your other fuses are not going to do SHIT for saving your amps.....everything will blow....and the 1 fuse you are using will not even be popped
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 3:19 pm
by dBincognito
You should have 1 inline fuse under the hood.....and right before all of your amps...there should be a distribuition block.....otherwise your whole fusing process is pointless and is doing absolutely nothing
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 3:19 pm
by dako
running 4ga power wire, i have a 150amp fuse within 12 inches of the battery and then after the distribution block, have an 80amp and a 60amp mini fuse for each amp respectively within 18 inches (in my case within 10 inches) of each amp. i've never had an issue with overload, fuses blowing or amps going into protection mode.
i would also think that unless this guy has a 150 or 200 amp alternator, his amp(s) will realistically never see the amperage or a spike that the inline fuses are designed to handle in the first place.