Phoenix Gold Phorum

I have a simple system, prefab box with a pair of IDQ 10's in the hatch. Now my little hatch is quick enough that when I accelerate the box goes flying. What I did to fix this thinking I was so smart, was to put a bungee cord across the sub box holding it in place. I pulled the cord up around the top edge of the subs and its kept it in place nicely.

Well today something went wrong, seems the bungee cord started to dig into one of the subs and starting pulling the surround off the frame. Now there's air escaping out this section, you can easily hear it pushing on the sub . Can I just glue this back and be done with it ? If so what is the best product to use ? If I push it closed with my hand , there's no more air escaping so I know its fixable.

Have no fear...... you should be fine we jsut need to find out what type of adhesive to use ......denim should be able to help out seeing as he builds subs try giving him a PM .......... just dont get inpatient and use something that might cause a bigger problem down the road

Oh no, I'm going to wait until I hear what the correct product to use. I know better than to "make it worse" Thnx !

some black silicone should do nicely. you should be able to find it at just about any automotive parts store. and while you're there grab a ratcheting tie-down and strap it over the top of the box to prevent future damage.

http://www.autobarn.net/per81158.html

http://www.strapworks.com/SearchResults ... DAodyBv-bQ

and ditch the bungies if it needed to be said..........

is that a cargo mat in the back or a solid part of the rear cargo area? if the latter, you can always do 4 4" strips of industrial strength velcro on the bottom of the enclosure; one strip for each corner area. as long as what you're affixing it to is a solid part of the interior, that stuff works wonders.

bungies and velcro? Have you ever considered what could happen if you were to roll that thing? it happens every day.......

ttocs wrote:bungies and velcro? Have you ever considered what could happen if you were to roll that thing? it happens every day.......

Happened to me. Luckily everything was bolted down.

Yes the bungee cord is going to go. As for accidents, I've worked in a bodyshop so I've seen lots of aftermath. Bottom line, any subbox in a hatch unless drilled into the floor is going to go flying around, and even then it may just tear out of the floor with the centrifugal force.

For my application I need a box that can easily/quickly be removed so I can make use of the cargo room. I don't think velcro would help as the box tips over as it flys towards the back during acceleration. I do have a cargo mat, its a no slip which is great with groceries but not with something top heavy like a sub box.

As for the black silicon, isn't there an issue with some silicons and breaking down the adhesive on the sub cone itself ?

you just need a rubber cement, or if you use a silicone, use a neutral cure one, also called non corrosive

... so put a bar in place, 2" high, from side to side, bolted in. Then you have a place to stash the groceries next to the sub box, too......

Bret

^^ won't work for me. I have to haul stuff around quite often using the entire hatch so a bar across the side is out of the question. That's teh only reason I'm running a removeable sub box in the first place.

mount some threaded inserts inside the box, a fairly large size that will allow a good size bolt. If you go to ace hardware, you can get a bolt that has a large knob style handle that allows you to tighten and loosen it by hand. Use some L-brackets on the side mounted to the floor of the car to allow these to tighten up on and still be easily removable. The L-brackets might get in the way, you can mount them towards the front of the vehicle but as long as there is something half solid holding that thing down.

Do you know that by having the bunjee across the woofer you are changing the resistance of the woofer when it plays, this can damage the amps as well as the woofers, they need to move to cool the coils, if you playing them and the cord is holding the suspention it will affect not just how it sounds, but how it reacts as well.

shaheen wrote:Do you know that by having the bunjee across the woofer you are changing the resistance of the woofer when it plays, this can damage the amps as well as the woofers, they need to move to cool the coils, if you playing them and the cord is holding the suspention it will affect not just how it sounds, but how it reacts as well.

Interesting. But.... the pic you see above is just a demonstration of what everything looksl like. To create tension, I had the bungee cord pulled around the top end of the subs so it was pulling down and back, that's why it cut into the top of the surround. When it was installed it did not touch the surface of the woofer. Interesting information none the less.

Me-262 wrote:Interesting. But.... the pic you see above is just a demonstration of what everything looksl like. To create tension, I had the bungee cord pulled around the top end of the subs so it was pulling down and back, that's why it cut into the top of the surround. When it was installed it did not touch the surface of the woofer. Interesting information none the less.

All you have to do then is screw some clamps down to keep the bungee from sliding around. I've been doing that in my cars for ages, since I also need to be able to pull the sub.

For example on my box I have two eyelets screwed into the back. I then connect the two ends of the bungee cord to them, while the middle is slung around one of my seat hinges. Not really the classiest setup but it works great, and doesn't hinder removal whatsoever.

I got four bungees attached to eyelets at each of the four top corners of my sub box with each bungee pulling down and away from the sub box. It's not perfect and I suspect the bungees would easily break in an accident but it does keep the box stable over speed bumps and normal dirt road/off road conditions. I want to replace them with ratchet straps however as it's never perfectly tight to the floor with bungee cords.

I was hoping that with the caliber of equipment we were using here we were above bungies

ttocs wrote:I was hoping that with the caliber of equipment we were using here we were above bungies

Apparently, not.

Did I tell you my amp is held in place with twist ties ? I've been staring at the box/rear of the car for a better solution. Are those tie down straps much better than a bungee cord ?

yes, they are. you can ratchet that sucker in place so it won't move at all unless you need to remove it. just make sure not to over-tighten them or you may overwhelm those light-duty anchors in the cargo area.

it moves the install hack-rating from ghetto, to redneck. I am not saying it is a move up, just a move.

You can't throw some L-brackets anywhere in there?

L brackets w/ 2 half circle brackets and some masterlocks, then you could unlock the box from the floor and youve got easy removal.

oldskoolmseriesfan wrote:L brackets w/ 2 half circle brackets and some masterlocks, then you could unlock the box from the floor and youve got easy removal.

And a ton of rattle! Metal on metal with a vibrating box is no good sir!

Sorry tape up all the metal with electricians tape, Ive done this before and it worked great, believe me I HATE RATTLES