Phoenix Gold Phorum

HERE's THE PROBLEM:
I have a 2250 (as some may know) and an ti D-Block that supports the AGU fuses. I have blown the fuse two or three times since I have converted to the AGU from the GANL (mini flat wafer type)... The most an AGU fuse comes in is 100amp... manual for 2250 says 110a rating for fusing... SO this could be why i am blowing the fuse... obviously i am hitting up over 100 on a couple/few occasions...

HERE's THE QUESTION:
Can i take a fuse w/ rating of 20 or 40a and solder or piggy back it onto the AGU fuse and thus netting me a rating of 120 or 140 amps maybe not blow fuses again???


know what I mean? I would have to find a fuse of which that would work in that fashion (i.e. allow me to solder it and be able to conceal it on the underside / kitty corner of the AGU so i can still get cover on... BUT that should work right? it's like having 1 input and two outputs each with a 60a fuse rating and thus netting collectively a 120 amp rating... no?


OR maybe i just buy Joerg's D-block he has for sale and sell the one I have now??? I dunno

I would say sell the one you have and get the right one..

dBincognito wrote:Just buy a circuit breaker, and quit buying fuses

true true - humm... interesting.. but could i keep the block in operation.. think i could nothing wrong with that, but to prevent blowing fuses, would i put breaker in front of or behind the d-block??

Not sure i wanna go that route.. ideally I want joergs d-block, but money is tight right now.. and now that I think about it, I think i owe GX55 some money still... damn! I plum forgot about that.. I need send PM (off trak sry)

I have always had trouble with the 80 and 100 amp agu fuses. The quality control on them is terrible. Most of the fuse manufacturers don't even make agu style fuses above the 60 amp rating. I imagine that's about the reasonable limit of that type of fuse. For more current than that I always use a maxi fuse or mini anl.

One thing to keep in mind when it comes to most fuses is that they will typically pass up to 200% of their rated current for a brief period of time without blowing. I think you're likely dealing with some poor fuses as opposed to the 100 amp limitation tripping you up here. Unfortunately, that range of amperage isn't handled properly by AGU fuses and you'll still have to swap to a different type. Also remember that circuit breakers have their downsides as well. In the 12 volt world every volt counts and a typical breaker that has been tripped and reset a few times will show a voltage drop across its terminals.

i see, interesting...
Sounds as though i should just change my block to the one i really need then..

Your principle works in theory but you would want to use a pair of 60's instead of a 100 and a 20.

so im a little anal on this stuff...so what I would do is use a peice of copper pipe to essentially bypass the agu fuse, then buy a kf fuse holder that is just after the agu fuse block. then you can use the correct fuse

I may be way off here but won't two the current travel through the path of least resistance in the case of using a pair of fuses to "add up" to a higher fuse rating? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

as i understand it...

the current will travel through 1 fuse, then as the current gets higher, the current will create heat, thus raising the resistance of the fuse, the other fuse will then become point of least resistance and they will eventually balance out.

stipud wrote:Your principle works in theory but you would want to use a pair of 60's instead of a 100 and a 20.

It will work to a point. The method is wrong as you pointed out Tom. 2 fuses of equal value and they have to be ran in parallel, as seen on some amps that have multiple fuses.

They make some distros just for that purpose. It's been a awhile sense I've seen one though.

I'm w/the other quote above, just buy a circuit breaker or get a wafer fuse.