rsdc 10,s vented

Thunderdome · Post by **Thunderdome** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 1:25 pm

would anyone know the best size vented box for an rsdc 10 inch, would you go with the recomendation on the owners manual from PG or something else. I mostly listen to classic rock and like deep bass also this is a spl car. and one more thing has anyone ever heard of building a vented box with 4 subs sharing the same air space like they do with sealed some times or would this be to hard to figure out?

Post by **stipud** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 2:28 pm

I usually go off of PG's SQ recommendation from the manual. They always seem to sound very good!

Yes you can do four subs in a single box, with 4 ports or one big slot. Up to you!

bogart · Post by **bogart** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 3:19 pm

I did a box with three octane zr 10 in 2.25 net tuned to 36hz all three sharing the same space with about an inch of matting inside and it did pretty good. The longer the port the less port velocity...in most cases...smoother transition with the sub..

for spl I would go with the largest enclosure you can fit and tune the enclosure into the upper bass frequency range and try to stay out of the cancellation arena...as much as possible anyway....narrow the frequency around both sides of the center and throw all the power the amps will throw at em...tune per ac voltage on the amp to save it from nightmare senereo of course.

most true spl enclosures that I have built are centered between 45 and 60hz and just stay out of the 100/200 cycle area with the subs all the way around. note...you will need a very stiff sub sonic filter if this is the plan and invest in a good set of mid bass drivers as they will end up carrying 98 percent of any real bottom end acoustical value the system has for sq.

Thunderdome · Post by **Thunderdome** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 5:56 pm

bogart wrote:I did a box with three octane zr 10 in 2.25 net tuned to 36hz all three sharing the same space with about an inch of matting inside and it did pretty good. The longer the port the less port velocity...in most cases...smoother transition with the sub..

for spl I would go with the largest enclosure you can fit and tune the enclosure into the upper bass frequency range and try to stay out of the cancellation arena...as much as possible anyway....narrow the frequency around both sides of the center and throw all the power the amps will throw at em...tune per ac voltage on the amp to save it from nightmare senereo of course.

most true spl enclosures that I have built are centered between 45 and 60hz and just stay out of the 100/200 cycle area with the subs all the way around. note...you will need a very stiff sub sonic filter if this is the plan and invest in a good set of mid bass drivers as they will end up carrying 98 percent of any real bottom end acoustical value the system has for sq.

Just wondering how you figure out your tuning frequencies box sizes port sizes etc is there a certain program that you use to figure this? I,ve always went sealed so I don,t know much about tuning boxes or could you shoot me some specs for one big box with 4 rsdc 10,s 4ohm if possible?

bogart · Post by **bogart** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 6:06 pm

what I can give you are the basis, I start there and use an audio oscillator to fine tune the port to the appropriate and desired reasonant frequency depending upon the values of the system. I really don't just build boxes...spl compitition has taught me a thing or two about tuning an enclosure and that is that there is a great big f@#@@ difference between what any calculator will tell you and what it is actually doing.....best to do it right and get the performance that you expect out it.....otherwise what's the use?

Ok...Now as the local yokles and a few of our canadian freinds know and have experienced, I know a thing or two about building loud ass enclosures...and I would love to help you out...let me do some math and crunch some numbers....then I will assist you via web on how to fine tune it yourself so that you can really get her up and humming

bogart · Post by **bogart** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 6:08 pm

I will need to know the max external specs you have to work with and keep clearances in mind as she has to go in one way or another...building it into the car is feasible but a big ole bitch

Thunderdome · Post by **Thunderdome** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 6:39 pm

Hi thanks for the help I,ll get back to you with some specs thanks again

Thunderdome · Post by **Thunderdome** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:45 pm

OK finally got a chance to measure the car the space I have is 40wide 35 long and 12 high at the back near where the hatch latches I,ll put in a pic so you can get an image thanks again

bogart · Post by **bogart** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:54 pm

ok..so oh wide is it from the inner lip of the tire well to the same on the opposite side? Is that the 40 or is it tighter then that...without being there to measure and template everything that would be the easiest way to design it...still plenty of room....I am assuming that you want to maintain a rear veiw, if not how tall to the roof from the lowest point above the back of seat measured at 90 and then a 45 if you can...give me an idea of the contour of the back....are you handy with glass?...be a nice one for it!!!! I see a wall of 10in rsdc's beating the shit out of that car...but I tend to go crazy with stuff