capacitors and batteries

schroedes · Post by **schroedes** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 4:16 pm

just wondering what you guys think of capacitors and their usefullness, ill be running about 1500w rms after my install this weekend and decided to get a suppposedly 8 farad cap,which im sure isnt really 8 farads, coulda just got another damn battery for the same price,also any tips on running 2 batteries,is a isolator always necessary and do you run em series or parallel?? thanks

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 4:39 pm

Personally I do not put much faith in caps no matter big or small. The smaller ones are just a band-aid for a much bigger problem and the larger ones have caused some strange problems on the factory charging system in some cases. I would recomend putting the money into a bigger batter and upgrade your big-3 cables, and then into an alt before spending a dime on a cap.

schroedes · Post by **schroedes** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 4:45 pm

too late! lol , just wondering what the big 3 upgrade is? im a newbie,sort of, and what kind of probs larger caps caused on elec systems?

KHPower · Post by **KHPower** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:38 pm

Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring. This instruction is to add cables to existing OEM wiring.

vin78 · Post by **vin78** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:51 pm

http://phoenixphorum.com/proper-power-vt181.html

schroedes · Post by **schroedes** » Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:23 am

that makes sense, they put restrictive wiring on there, thanks man

schroedes · Post by **schroedes** » Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:24 am

i have 1/0 kicker power wire, would i be able to use that? thanks

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Sep 19, 2009 5:53 am

you can use it but the hardest part of using big cable is getting the large gauge terminals to fit on small connections like the alternator. In that case I recoment opening up a 4 awg connector enough to allow the bigger wire. Crimp it AND solder it and it is no problem. I recomend soldering all the power connections for these to ensure that they do not corrode.

The factory ground wires are a major choke point in the electrical system. Even if you run 0 awg to your amp it would be limited to the amperage that these wires can carry.

todd217 · Post by **todd217** » Sat Sep 19, 2009 8:27 am

you dont need 1/0 for a short run like that. just use some 4awg and save the big stuff.

schroedes · Post by **schroedes** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:11 pm

where is the engine ground to chassis located usually? i have a 05 grand prix comp g

drivingdadevil · Post by **drivingdadevil** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 3:15 pm

Usually their are a few grounds on the back of the engine to the firewall.

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:54 pm

I used a bolt that held the alternator onto the motor myself. IT was not only easy to run both the power and ground next to each other but as far as chassis goes, you can't get much closer then the alternators chassis.

schroedes · Post by **schroedes** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 11:19 am

thanks, i was just wondering also, the power wire from alt to the battery runs with other wires that are wrapped up and take a long route all the way around the engine to the battery when the alternator is right next to the battery,kind of dumb cause this cause even mopre resistance in the 8awg thats used factory, can i just run a new wire straight to the battery from alternator and just leave this factory mess thats on there? current will just take the least resistive path anyways right? thanks