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ZPA0.5 Needs work
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 12:19 pm
by jbob0124
I bought a used zpa0.5 and it came in today, the first thing I did was take the cover off and look at the boards. I found a few spots that are questionable. Unfortunately I don't know enough about the boards to know whats what, although I know whats out of place. I snapped a few pics, looking for opinions on it. Going to go hook it up to see if it works.
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 12:24 pm
by stipud
Random, ugly jumpers are pretty common actually in the older PG amps. I don't see anything really concerning, but I am no ZPA expert.
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 1:57 pm
by Stryker
I'm no expert at all, but shouldn't those caps be replaced first?
They look questionable to me.....
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 2:15 pm
by jbob0124
The caps themselves look pretty clean, the board under it looks a little on the dirty side, but not bad.
I've got another pic of the board near the balance connection and R channel connection. I noticed two pieces that look like they have melted. (not sure if they are or not)
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 2:23 pm
by todd217
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 2:30 pm
by jbob0124
Im not denying the fact that they are probably old and need to be replaced, but before I go replacing anything I want to see if I can get this working easily/cheaply otherwise Im going to try and get my money back. This was supposed to be in good working condition and was supposedly bench tested just before it was sold.
I don't mind putting the work into fixing it as long as it isn't going to cost me an arm and a leg. I already spent a good amount for it.
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 2:56 pm
by yeddy
Aren't those jumpers to make your inputs grounded or floating depending on what you use for inputs? Grounded for RCA or floating for the rj45? Your amp is clearly grounded for RCA inputs. Correct me if I'm wrong guys, I'm just kinda guessing, but it looks right to me...
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 4:16 pm
by jbob0124
Well I managed to get both channels working, but I have to turn one channel all the way up to match the output of the other channel which is turned all the way down. Still only one fan running, I think im giving up for tonight and will probably mess with it more tomorrow.
Posted: Sat May 08, 2010 8:11 am
by jbob0124
Well I managed to get both channels working correctly, apparently the crossover chip wasn't sitting just right. Eventually I will replace that with the zpaxo. Now I just have the fan to figure out. Hopefully its just a bad fan.
Also, what are the four yellow adjustable knobs for? I've never really messed with those and have been curious...
Posted: Sat May 08, 2010 8:31 am
by shawn k
If you get a ZPAXO I will buy your blank chip. Let me know!
Posted: Sat May 08, 2010 8:35 am
by jbob0124
Sounds good to me. I will let you know.
Posted: Sat May 08, 2010 9:42 am
by Eric D
Your jumpers are melted because they were hand soldered in there. They are so small, no matter what you do the iron gets them too hot and the insulation will melt. No big deal.
Your caps are bad, real bad. The amp will catch fire soon, without warning.
There looks to be some damage on the power supply section. Maybe a FET or two was replaced. If so, all 8 need to be replaced for load balancing or the supply will fail later.
Two of the yellow pots are for bias control. The other two are for DC offset control. This is one of the few PG amps with DC offset control, and it is a very nice feature. If they are set right, you should never touch any of them.
Hope this helps.
Posted: Sat May 08, 2010 9:57 am
by jbob0124
Thanks, I will look into getting new caps and new fets for it. I know I can get the parts from digikey.com, but im assuming the caps are aluminum, then its just a matter of matching up the numbers on the cap. Would it make any difference in getting a higher rated cap, or just stick with the same?
As far as the bias setting, how can I ensure it is set right, or get it set right?
Sorry I know im asking alot of question, this is all new to me, so Im still learning.
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 11:28 am
by jbob0124
Anyone have any input on cap size for replacements? Does it make a difference by upgrading to a higher capacitance?
I've read a few post's through out, but nothing definite on it. I don't mind spending the extra money for a higher rated cap if it makes a difference, but if it doesn't then I will simply replace them for what they are.
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 12:22 pm
by shawn k
It's best to replace them with values that are the same as the originals. Really no need change. PG amps, as well as most quality amplifiers, are engineered well and unless you feel you need to challenge the design of an intelligent, or a team of intelligent, engineers then...... well you get the picture

Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 1:19 pm
by jbob0124
Just wanted to make sure there wasn't a benefit to upgrading before I buy them. I've got 4 zpa's that im going to replace caps on, so I want to make sure I'm getting the right caps before I spend the money.
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 1:27 pm
by shawn k
Nice man! I need to pick up a fourth myself sometime. What are your plans for your system?.. deck, speaks, subs?
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 1:36 pm
by southfloridaPGlover
its been switch over to ver .2
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 1:38 pm
by southfloridaPGlover
jbob0124 wrote:The caps themselves look pretty clean, the board under it looks a little on the dirty side, but not bad.
I've got another pic of the board near the balance connection and R channel connection. I noticed two pieces that look like they have melted. (not sure if they are or not)
there used to be a switch there when they upgrade the zpa to ver .2 they took out the switch
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:40 pm
by jbob0124
shawn k wrote:Nice man! I need to pick up a fourth myself sometime. What are your plans for your system?.. deck, speaks, subs?
Not 100% sure, its still in the works...I've got an old Alpine HU that I plan on upgrading at some point. The fronts, I've got a set of 6.5 elite comps. The subs I've got 2 xmax 12's. I don't have any real fill at the moment, but I've got a tx6.0 comp set that I might run off the HU for that. Im running zpa's for the power, two .3's and two .5's.
Its still going to be a while before I actually get my hands into installing...
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:43 pm
by jbob0124
southfloridaPGlover wrote:jbob0124 wrote:The caps themselves look pretty clean, the board under it looks a little on the dirty side, but not bad.
I've got another pic of the board near the balance connection and R channel connection. I noticed two pieces that look like they have melted. (not sure if they are or not)
there used to be a switch there when they upgrade the zpa to ver .2 they took out the switch
I thought when they were ver.2 they noted it on the white tag inside the amp?
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 6:37 pm
by Eric D
I would use 5,600uF caps, as they did not exist when the ZPA was made, but do now, and offer more storage.
Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 7:03 am
by southfloridaPGlover
jbob0124 wrote:southfloridaPGlover wrote:jbob0124 wrote:The caps themselves look pretty clean, the board under it looks a little on the dirty side, but not bad.
I've got another pic of the board near the balance connection and R channel connection. I noticed two pieces that look like they have melted. (not sure if they are or not)
there used to be a switch there when they upgrade the zpa to ver .2 they took out the switch
I thought when they were ver.2 they noted it on the white tag inside the amp?
not on ver.1 that where send in to be upgrade to ver.2