So what do you guys recommend?
Sound deadening... taking the plunge
Sound deadening... taking the plunge
I seriously need to sound deaden my doors at the very least, but i've never done it and i'm scared...
So what do you guys recommend?
So what do you guys recommend?
Last edited by stipud on Fri May 14, 2010 8:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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rscecil007
- Posts: 562
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 7:38 pm
- Location: Seattle
I have to say I'm kinda surprised myself..... I thought that would have been the first ing you did.......
Those tender little burgers with them little, itty-bitty grilled onions that just explode in ya mouth like flavor crystals every time you bite into one.. just makes me want to burn this muthafuka down.... Come on, Pookie, let's burn this muthafuka down!!!
Well shit............
Buy some fatmat and have it sent to Brian's for dabor.... We'll pull yer car apart and line ya up.......
Buy some fatmat and have it sent to Brian's for dabor.... We'll pull yer car apart and line ya up.......
Those tender little burgers with them little, itty-bitty grilled onions that just explode in ya mouth like flavor crystals every time you bite into one.. just makes me want to burn this muthafuka down.... Come on, Pookie, let's burn this muthafuka down!!!
..............uuuuuuuummmmmmmm yeah....(said in a valley girl voice)
Lets fukin dooeet man!!!!!! I can strip a door in no time..... Just got a new roller I needs to break in.....
I'm down if yer down......
Lets fukin dooeet man!!!!!! I can strip a door in no time..... Just got a new roller I needs to break in.....
I'm down if yer down......
Those tender little burgers with them little, itty-bitty grilled onions that just explode in ya mouth like flavor crystals every time you bite into one.. just makes me want to burn this muthafuka down.... Come on, Pookie, let's burn this muthafuka down!!!
Fly me out and I'm game.FuzzyHoNutz wrote:..............uuuuuuuummmmmmmm yeah....(said in a valley girl voice)
Lets fukin dooeet man!!!!!! I can strip a door in no time..... Just got a new roller I needs to break in.....
I'm down if yer down......
"ZPA's will have the same sound essentially as you get from the MS, they just feature a bigger shinier set of balls."
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
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rscecil007
- Posts: 562
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 7:38 pm
- Location: Seattle
I know.FuzzyHoNutz wrote:I have to say I'm kinda surprised myself..... I thought that would have been the first ing you did.......
Stipud, "Who taught you this, who showed you how to do this?!?!"
To Fuzzy: "You alright! I learned it by watching you!!!!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-Elr5K2Vuo
"Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity."
Okiedokie... let's get this show on the road! How much do I need to order? 100sqft will cover the whole car? 200sqft? I've got a budget of $150-250 for this so we can get some fancier crap if need be.
Edit: sounds like this guy disagrees with layering the car in vibration dampener, and instead suggests using sound blocker instead...
http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Edit: sounds like this guy disagrees with layering the car in vibration dampener, and instead suggests using sound blocker instead...
http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
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rscecil007
- Posts: 562
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 7:38 pm
- Location: Seattle
Yeah, I wish i had read that before I did mine, I might have did it a little differently. From what I read it kinda breaks down like this.stipud wrote:Okiedokie... let's get this show on the road! How much do I need to order? 100sqft will cover the whole car? 200sqft? I've got a budget of $150-250 for this so we can get some fancier crap if need be.
Edit: sounds like this guy disagrees with layering the car in vibration dampener, and instead suggests using sound blocker instead...
http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
dampner - kills vibrations
mlv- helps blocks road noise/all noise but the high freq stuff
CCF/ensolite - helps block higher freq noise (like wind noise etc) and also helps to float or isolate the mlv from the floor/dampner so you get the most out of the mlv
i may at some point go back and put the mlv on the floor and back wall of my truck nad maybe the doors. if i can bring myself to rip almost the whole interior out again.
"Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity."
It's really up to you Tom..... I think the $129 100^ roll is the way to go myself..... Check out fatmat.com and see what ya wanna go with...
We could just do the doors and trunk lid....... We could strip the trunk aswell..... Pull the seats and carpet...... Whatever yer into....
I'm just hoping for good weather..... But Bri has access to acouple pop-up canopies so that's an option aswell......
We could just do the doors and trunk lid....... We could strip the trunk aswell..... Pull the seats and carpet...... Whatever yer into....
I'm just hoping for good weather..... But Bri has access to acouple pop-up canopies so that's an option aswell......
Those tender little burgers with them little, itty-bitty grilled onions that just explode in ya mouth like flavor crystals every time you bite into one.. just makes me want to burn this muthafuka down.... Come on, Pookie, let's burn this muthafuka down!!!
Here's what I would like... the inside and outside of the doors, the floor, and the whole trunk deadened. Closed cell foam over the door panels, floor and the bottom of the trunk. And MAYBE mass loaded vinyl over the foam on the door panels (but that is getting a bit too expensive). You think we can do that in one weekend?
The $129 100sqft is definitely the best deal I have found so far for deadener, so I am pretty set on that. Just gotta figure out which foam to use, and how much of it I will need. Probably 100sqft mat, 50sqft foam will do the trick.
The $129 100sqft is definitely the best deal I have found so far for deadener, so I am pretty set on that. Just gotta figure out which foam to use, and how much of it I will need. Probably 100sqft mat, 50sqft foam will do the trick.
I can pull seats/carpet in under 30 mins usually..... Door panels aren't too hard to pull off either...... I think it could be done rather quikly with 3-4 people workin on it......
Those tender little burgers with them little, itty-bitty grilled onions that just explode in ya mouth like flavor crystals every time you bite into one.. just makes me want to burn this muthafuka down.... Come on, Pookie, let's burn this muthafuka down!!!
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rscecil007
- Posts: 562
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 7:38 pm
- Location: Seattle
Tom,
Rick at Rammaudio has some CCF that is self-adhesive, and let me tell you, it is WAY easier to use then the non stick stuff you have to spray with aerosol adhesive.
The cost is (or was) about a draw if you both the non stick stuff and the cans of adhesive, or just bought the sticky stuff.
Do yourself a big favor and order some of that and have it shipped to fuzzy's or whatever if you need to. You'll be glad you did.
Rick at Rammaudio has some CCF that is self-adhesive, and let me tell you, it is WAY easier to use then the non stick stuff you have to spray with aerosol adhesive.
The cost is (or was) about a draw if you both the non stick stuff and the cans of adhesive, or just bought the sticky stuff.
Do yourself a big favor and order some of that and have it shipped to fuzzy's or whatever if you need to. You'll be glad you did.
"Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity."
This stuff also sounds totally badass... mass loaded vinyl melted onto a closed cell foam, so you get both treatments in one layer:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/noise-ba ... er-Pro.php
Too many choices... one of the main reasons i've hesitated so long
Edit: the fatmat "floor liner" sounds like the same kind of product. Anyone heard about this stuff?
http://www.fatmat.com/liners/floor/liner.html
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/noise-ba ... er-Pro.php
Too many choices... one of the main reasons i've hesitated so long
Edit: the fatmat "floor liner" sounds like the same kind of product. Anyone heard about this stuff?
http://www.fatmat.com/liners/floor/liner.html
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rscecil007
- Posts: 562
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 7:38 pm
- Location: Seattle
Hmm, that luxury liner pro is interesting. I thought the whole reason for the ccf in b/w the damper and mlv was to enable the mlv to float and decouple it from the floor. seems like having them melted together might defeat that a bit? Dunno.stipud wrote:This stuff also sounds totally badass... mass loaded vinyl melted onto a closed cell foam, so you get both treatments in one layer:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/noise-ba ... er-Pro.php
Too many choices... one of the main reasons i've hesitated so long
Edit: the fatmat "floor liner" sounds like the same kind of product. Anyone heard about this stuff?
http://www.fatmat.com/liners/floor/liner.html
SSA stuff seems pretty well liked though, but it's a tad more $$$ I believe.
"Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity."
Not sure if this stuff is any good or not, but doesn't seem bad in price...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/100-Sq-F ... ccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/100-Sq-F ... ccessories
Fatmat Floor Liner $59.99 x 2 = $119.98
Fatmat 100 Sq Ft Bulk Pack $129.99
Total $249.97
Juuuust fits in my budget. I don't think I can find much better than this, but I am all ears!
If that stuff is 80mil for $109 that is a steal, but I would prefer to deal with a reputable brand and pay a bit more money, just because I don't want to have any unforeseen issues come up.
Fatmat 100 Sq Ft Bulk Pack $129.99
Total $249.97
Juuuust fits in my budget. I don't think I can find much better than this, but I am all ears!
If that stuff is 80mil for $109 that is a steal, but I would prefer to deal with a reputable brand and pay a bit more money, just because I don't want to have any unforeseen issues come up.
It's only melted onto the surface, so it should still be decoupled by the foam in the middle. I don't think the melted bond is any less coupled than an adhered bond, though it's probably less thick to have the combined sheet than the two separate ones. I just prefer that there's one less adhesive barrier to worry about having the glue come apart in a few years.rscecil007 wrote:Hmm, that luxury liner pro is interesting. I thought the whole reason for the ccf in b/w the damper and mlv was to enable the mlv to float and decouple it from the floor. seems like having them melted together might defeat that a bit? Dunno.
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rscecil007
- Posts: 562
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 7:38 pm
- Location: Seattle
Someone posted a how-to install from Don over at sounddeadener showdown on the tacoma boards. I'll try to find it for you.stipud wrote:It's only melted onto the surface, so it should still be decoupled by the foam in the middle. I don't think the melted bond is any less coupled than an adhered bond, though it's probably less thick to have the combined sheet than the two separate ones. I just prefer that there's one less adhesive barrier to worry about having the glue come apart in a few years.rscecil007 wrote:Hmm, that luxury liner pro is interesting. I thought the whole reason for the ccf in b/w the damper and mlv was to enable the mlv to float and decouple it from the floor. seems like having them melted together might defeat that a bit? Dunno.
If I remember reading his instructions right, the ccf and mlv are not supposed to be bonded together, that's where my statement came from and thinking them being bonded together wasn't a good idea.
I could very well be wrong though.
"Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity."
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rscecil007
- Posts: 562
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 7:38 pm
- Location: Seattle
Here's the whole thread:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio- ... oject.html
But below is what Don had to say, that someone posted from an email:
I'm reluctant to cite percentages without proof, but the MLV and CCF
probably contribute something like 90% to making the truck quieter.
Vibration dampers like my CLD Tiles or Dynamat Xtreme control panel
resonance. Panel resonance destroys sound quality by reinforcing the
resonant frequency and harmonics if the RF of the vibrating part. It's
also an important mechanism for noise transmission through the vehicle.
Using a vibration damper alone is an option for an already quiet vehicle
with an aftermarket sound system that exceeds the OEM specs. For most of
us, using a vibration damper and barrier is the key to bringing noise
levels down and reducing vehicle induced distortion making the sound
system sound better and making the driving experience much more pleasant.
The floor is one of the least resonant areas of the vehicle. Between the
carpet and the seats, it's usually pretty solid. On the other hand, the
floor is the entry point for most of the problematic noise sources -
engine, exhaust and tire.
The roof is more a problem for resonance than airborne sound. It's a
huge area of sheet metal, right above your head. It can also be a
problem for air turbulence noise. Since there are very few noise sources
overhead, there's not much point to installing a barrier on the roof.
Vibration damper, definitely. It can also help to add a layer of 1/4"
CCF to deal with high frequency noise.
Lets' start with the doors.
Front Doors (each):
5 CLD Tiles, outer skin
2 CLD Tiles, cut into smaller pieces, each inner skin
Extruded Butyl Rope
6.14 ft² MLV
6.14 ft² 1/4" CCF
2.5 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
Rear Doors (each):
4 CLD Tiles, outer skin
2 CLD Tiles, cut into smaller pieces, each inner skin
Extruded Butyl Rope
5.45 ft² MLV
5.45 ft² 1/4" CCF
2.5 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
Start by pressing Extruded Butyl Rope (EBR) between the outer skin and
the side impact protection beams. Leave gaps every few inches to allow
water to drain. Cut some strips from a heavy plastic bag and press them
into the top surface of the EBR to protect it from dirt.
Apply half the CLD Tiles allocated to the outer skin above and half
below the side impact protection beam. Cut 2 more CLD Tiles into smaller
pieces and apply them to the inner door skin.
Hang MLV on the inner door skin using Velcro Patches with pressure
sensitive adhesive on both sides. The patches are 2"X4" but you can cut
them in half for this application (most applications really). Start with
2 pieces in the top corners to hold the MLV in place while you trim it
to fit. You want it to be as large as it can be - just barely fitting
inside the trim panel when it is replaced. You will need to cut some
holes in the MLV to allow cables, rods, shafts, wires, clips and the
speakers to come through. You want these holes to be as small as
possible. Every place we use MLV we are building a barrier and a barrier
needs to be as large and contiguous as possible.
It helps during the fitting process to periodically remove the MLV from
the door and lay it in the trim panel to test fit it. The Velcro makes
this easy. When you first hang the MLV on the door, cut holes where the
trim panel clips go into the door. You can then use these holes to
orient the MLV inside the trim panel.
When you are satisfied with the MLV fit, add two more Velcro Patch
pieces to the bottom corners. It's generally a good idea to add a third
piece on top for added strength. Finally, use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to tack
a layer of closed cell foam (CCF) on the side of the MLV facing the trim
panel. When the trim panel is reinstalled, the CCF will compress
slightly, getting rid of rattles and buzzes in the trim panel itself and
between the trim panel and the inner door skin.
Doors (totals):
26 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
23.18 ft² MLV
23.18 ft² 1/4" CCF
10 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
Floor:
As I mentioned, the floor is the entry point for many of the most
objectionable noise sources we deal with.
22 CLD Tiles
37.92 ft² MLV
37.92 ft² 1/4" CCF
The floor is quite easy compared to the doors, except that you need to
remove the seats, the carpet and any trim that touches the carpet. Start
with CLD Tiles at 25% coverage. There's no good reason to apply CLD
Tiles on top of the stock deadener. In some cases the stock deadener is
loose and you can just pull it out. If it is in good shape, leave it in
place and apply the CLD Tiles to the bare metal areas. If you want to
remove the stock deadener anyway, you can often scrape it out with a
heat gun and a putty knife. A quicker option may be laying dry ice on
top of it for a few minutes and then hitting it with a rubber mallet.
With any luck the stock deadener will shatter and you can just pick up
the loose pieces and vacuum the residue.
Cut 1/4" CCF to fit the bottoms of the floor pans and up into the foot
wells and lay it in place. You really don't need any adhesive or other
attachment products for the floor. Gravity, the carpet and trim panels
will hold everything in place. Finally, lay MLV on top of the CCF,
extending up the center tunnel, sills and everywhere you can without
interfering with trim panel replacement. You will need to cut holes for
the seat bolt downs and seat belt anchors if they are on the floor.
Again, make these holes as small as possible. You are basically
upholstering the floor with MLV. MLV is quite flexible and will easily
follow a simple curve. Where it needs to be fitted to complex curves you
will need to do some cutting. Use HH-66 to seal the seams in the MLV as
you go.
Roof:
10 CLD Tiles
19 ft² 1/4" CCF
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 1 side
Apply the CLD Tiles to the pen areas of sheet metal. Cut the Velcro
Patches in half (2"X2") a and use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to bond the
non-adhesive side of the Velcro to the CCF. Peel off the release film
from the adhesive side of the Velcro and press into place.
Back Wall:
5 CLD Tiles
7.67 ft² MLV
7.67 ft² 1/8" CCF
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
The back wall doesn't usually have enough space for 1/4" CCF. That's why
I specified 1/8". I've attached a PDF that demonstrates how to hang CCF
and MLV in the least space possible.
General Notes
HH-66 is a contact adhesive. You need to coat both surfaces and let them
dry until just tacky, 3-5 minutes. Press the two parts together. The
bond is more than strong enough to work with immediately. It will
achieve its full strength after a few hours.
When working with the self-adhesive side(s) the Velcro Patches press the
entire assembly into place. It is a good idea to gently separate the
hook and loop sides and press them down by themselves to make sure the
bond is complete.
Totals:
63 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
68.77 ft² MLV
80.1 ft² 1/4" CCF
7.67 ft² 1/8" CCF
16 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 1 side
1 8 oz can HH-66
As an order:
63 CLD Tiles @ 2.25 = $141.75
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope @ 8.75 = 8.75
1 67.5 ft² roll MLV @ 121.50 = 121.50
6 sheets 1/4" CCF @ 25.65 = 153.90
1 sheet 1/8" CCF @ 13.85 = 13.85
1 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides, 10-pack @ 13.00 = 13.00
3 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides @ 3.25 = 9.75
3 Velcro Patches, adh. 1 side @ 2.65 = 7.95
1 8 oz can HH-66 @ 8.50 = 8.50
1 2" Maple Roller N/C
Sub Total: $478.95
A quick scan of that and I can't find where it said adhering the ccf and mlv isn't a good idea, but I swear I read that somewhere. Damn, maybe I am going crazy.
Maybe that's got some helpful tips for you at any rate.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio- ... oject.html
But below is what Don had to say, that someone posted from an email:
I'm reluctant to cite percentages without proof, but the MLV and CCF
probably contribute something like 90% to making the truck quieter.
Vibration dampers like my CLD Tiles or Dynamat Xtreme control panel
resonance. Panel resonance destroys sound quality by reinforcing the
resonant frequency and harmonics if the RF of the vibrating part. It's
also an important mechanism for noise transmission through the vehicle.
Using a vibration damper alone is an option for an already quiet vehicle
with an aftermarket sound system that exceeds the OEM specs. For most of
us, using a vibration damper and barrier is the key to bringing noise
levels down and reducing vehicle induced distortion making the sound
system sound better and making the driving experience much more pleasant.
The floor is one of the least resonant areas of the vehicle. Between the
carpet and the seats, it's usually pretty solid. On the other hand, the
floor is the entry point for most of the problematic noise sources -
engine, exhaust and tire.
The roof is more a problem for resonance than airborne sound. It's a
huge area of sheet metal, right above your head. It can also be a
problem for air turbulence noise. Since there are very few noise sources
overhead, there's not much point to installing a barrier on the roof.
Vibration damper, definitely. It can also help to add a layer of 1/4"
CCF to deal with high frequency noise.
Lets' start with the doors.
Front Doors (each):
5 CLD Tiles, outer skin
2 CLD Tiles, cut into smaller pieces, each inner skin
Extruded Butyl Rope
6.14 ft² MLV
6.14 ft² 1/4" CCF
2.5 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
Rear Doors (each):
4 CLD Tiles, outer skin
2 CLD Tiles, cut into smaller pieces, each inner skin
Extruded Butyl Rope
5.45 ft² MLV
5.45 ft² 1/4" CCF
2.5 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
Start by pressing Extruded Butyl Rope (EBR) between the outer skin and
the side impact protection beams. Leave gaps every few inches to allow
water to drain. Cut some strips from a heavy plastic bag and press them
into the top surface of the EBR to protect it from dirt.
Apply half the CLD Tiles allocated to the outer skin above and half
below the side impact protection beam. Cut 2 more CLD Tiles into smaller
pieces and apply them to the inner door skin.
Hang MLV on the inner door skin using Velcro Patches with pressure
sensitive adhesive on both sides. The patches are 2"X4" but you can cut
them in half for this application (most applications really). Start with
2 pieces in the top corners to hold the MLV in place while you trim it
to fit. You want it to be as large as it can be - just barely fitting
inside the trim panel when it is replaced. You will need to cut some
holes in the MLV to allow cables, rods, shafts, wires, clips and the
speakers to come through. You want these holes to be as small as
possible. Every place we use MLV we are building a barrier and a barrier
needs to be as large and contiguous as possible.
It helps during the fitting process to periodically remove the MLV from
the door and lay it in the trim panel to test fit it. The Velcro makes
this easy. When you first hang the MLV on the door, cut holes where the
trim panel clips go into the door. You can then use these holes to
orient the MLV inside the trim panel.
When you are satisfied with the MLV fit, add two more Velcro Patch
pieces to the bottom corners. It's generally a good idea to add a third
piece on top for added strength. Finally, use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to tack
a layer of closed cell foam (CCF) on the side of the MLV facing the trim
panel. When the trim panel is reinstalled, the CCF will compress
slightly, getting rid of rattles and buzzes in the trim panel itself and
between the trim panel and the inner door skin.
Doors (totals):
26 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
23.18 ft² MLV
23.18 ft² 1/4" CCF
10 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
Floor:
As I mentioned, the floor is the entry point for many of the most
objectionable noise sources we deal with.
22 CLD Tiles
37.92 ft² MLV
37.92 ft² 1/4" CCF
The floor is quite easy compared to the doors, except that you need to
remove the seats, the carpet and any trim that touches the carpet. Start
with CLD Tiles at 25% coverage. There's no good reason to apply CLD
Tiles on top of the stock deadener. In some cases the stock deadener is
loose and you can just pull it out. If it is in good shape, leave it in
place and apply the CLD Tiles to the bare metal areas. If you want to
remove the stock deadener anyway, you can often scrape it out with a
heat gun and a putty knife. A quicker option may be laying dry ice on
top of it for a few minutes and then hitting it with a rubber mallet.
With any luck the stock deadener will shatter and you can just pick up
the loose pieces and vacuum the residue.
Cut 1/4" CCF to fit the bottoms of the floor pans and up into the foot
wells and lay it in place. You really don't need any adhesive or other
attachment products for the floor. Gravity, the carpet and trim panels
will hold everything in place. Finally, lay MLV on top of the CCF,
extending up the center tunnel, sills and everywhere you can without
interfering with trim panel replacement. You will need to cut holes for
the seat bolt downs and seat belt anchors if they are on the floor.
Again, make these holes as small as possible. You are basically
upholstering the floor with MLV. MLV is quite flexible and will easily
follow a simple curve. Where it needs to be fitted to complex curves you
will need to do some cutting. Use HH-66 to seal the seams in the MLV as
you go.
Roof:
10 CLD Tiles
19 ft² 1/4" CCF
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 1 side
Apply the CLD Tiles to the pen areas of sheet metal. Cut the Velcro
Patches in half (2"X2") a and use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to bond the
non-adhesive side of the Velcro to the CCF. Peel off the release film
from the adhesive side of the Velcro and press into place.
Back Wall:
5 CLD Tiles
7.67 ft² MLV
7.67 ft² 1/8" CCF
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
The back wall doesn't usually have enough space for 1/4" CCF. That's why
I specified 1/8". I've attached a PDF that demonstrates how to hang CCF
and MLV in the least space possible.
General Notes
HH-66 is a contact adhesive. You need to coat both surfaces and let them
dry until just tacky, 3-5 minutes. Press the two parts together. The
bond is more than strong enough to work with immediately. It will
achieve its full strength after a few hours.
When working with the self-adhesive side(s) the Velcro Patches press the
entire assembly into place. It is a good idea to gently separate the
hook and loop sides and press them down by themselves to make sure the
bond is complete.
Totals:
63 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
68.77 ft² MLV
80.1 ft² 1/4" CCF
7.67 ft² 1/8" CCF
16 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 1 side
1 8 oz can HH-66
As an order:
63 CLD Tiles @ 2.25 = $141.75
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope @ 8.75 = 8.75
1 67.5 ft² roll MLV @ 121.50 = 121.50
6 sheets 1/4" CCF @ 25.65 = 153.90
1 sheet 1/8" CCF @ 13.85 = 13.85
1 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides, 10-pack @ 13.00 = 13.00
3 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides @ 3.25 = 9.75
3 Velcro Patches, adh. 1 side @ 2.65 = 7.95
1 8 oz can HH-66 @ 8.50 = 8.50
1 2" Maple Roller N/C
Sub Total: $478.95
A quick scan of that and I can't find where it said adhering the ccf and mlv isn't a good idea, but I swear I read that somewhere. Damn, maybe I am going crazy.
Maybe that's got some helpful tips for you at any rate.
"Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity."
I think the sound deadener showdown site was taken off after the guy that did it went into biz with his own stuff.
I use the luxery liner in my truck as well as the damplifier and if you had a piece of it and fatmat or extreme in your hands you would see the difference. The foil is thick enough that I it is able to be stretched into almost any crack and crevice and doesn't break.
I use the luxery liner in my truck as well as the damplifier and if you had a piece of it and fatmat or extreme in your hands you would see the difference. The foil is thick enough that I it is able to be stretched into almost any crack and crevice and doesn't break.
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.