Phoenix Gold Phorum

Has anyone measured the real world outputs of the 2250 TA into stereo 4 ohms?

Also I wish to swap the small caps of course (I'll ignore the large ones this time as they're always perfect). Can someone recommend some really tasty caps please? I seem to recall Wima have a great reputation. Something black would blend in well. Links to specific models available online will be highly appreciated...

Thanks

think they measure about 230wrms per channel.

i would leave the caps alone in a TA, they should be ok..

Really? They are still pretty old now

i asked eric a couple of months ago about changing mine and he told me they dont need to be changed.

If your MS2250TA has shorter input caps, I highly doubt they need to be changed. The shorter ones are significantly newer, and should use better technology in their construction.

The only real reason I can see for changing them is so they look better (taller ones seem to look better IMO). Increasing the uF of them has no real world benefit. The only reason I use 5,600uF caps when I swap these is because the 5,600uF caps are the same height as the old 2,200uF ones being replaced.

My MS2250TA had enough NO LOAD voltage to do 225W a channel into 4 ohms. Real world output will be less. If you run the amp beyond 225W it will be clipping. For these reasons, the MS2250TA is begging to be run at 2 ohms mono or 1 ohm stereo. Under these conditions you will get a lot of power out of it, with a huge increase in heat though. I have never tested it, but I am confident a MS2250TA at 2 ohm mono will beat a MS2250 (original) at 4 ohm mono.

i would love to see that show down!! ms2250 v ms2250ta

Interesting, thanks a lot. Nico - any idea if these are the tall or shorter caps?

Anything north of around 200 rms will be surplus in my system anyway I guess. But Amp Guts has different figures...

Phoenix Gold MS-2250
2 x 250W @ 4 ohms (12.5V - <0.05% THD)
2 x 340W @ 4 ohms (13.8V)
2 x 517W @ 2 ohms (13.8V)
1 x 1060W @ 4 ohms bridged (13.8V)
Manufactured in 1992-1995
Credits: Dr. Fosgate from www.SoundBuggy.com forum

http://ampguts.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=1346

KUB3 wrote:Interesting, thanks a lot. Nico - any idea if these are the tall or shorter caps?

Anything north of around 200 rms will be surplus in my system anyway I guess. But Amp Guts has different figures...

Phoenix Gold MS-2250
2 x 250W @ 4 ohms (12.5V - <0.05% THD)
2 x 340W @ 4 ohms (13.8V)
2 x 517W @ 2 ohms (13.8V)
1 x 1060W @ 4 ohms bridged (13.8V)
Manufactured in 1992-1995
Credits: Dr. Fosgate from www.SoundBuggy.com forum

http://ampguts.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=1346

thats not for the ta that is the original one.

2 different beasts..

So the TA does 225w compared to 340w per channel. Why is it so much less?

check this out http://www.soundbuggy.com/Eric/Car%20Au ... index.html

That's interesting. As I say I don't need the extra power but just wondered why they reduced the outputs that much. Thinking about it, I guess the lack of three cooling fans meant heat was the issue so maybe they had to keep the power lower

By reducing it they made it more reliable. MS2250s are not the most reliable (considering average users, not people who think things through).

If you only need 200W, then the MS2250TA is perfect for you as it will do it all day long without breaking a sweat, and will sound the best running so optimally.

i agree with eric if the ms2125ta were ms500 than i would think the ms2250ta would or cold be a great great amp for what you need

subscribing

Thanks for the explanations. I guess it will be lasting a long time then!

Eric D wrote:If your MS2250TA has shorter input caps, I highly doubt they need to be changed. The shorter ones are significantly newer, and should use better technology in their construction.

The only real reason I can see for changing them is so they look better (taller ones seem to look better IMO). Increasing the uF of them has no real world benefit. The only reason I use 5,600uF caps when I swap these is because the 5,600uF caps are the same height as the old 2,200uF ones being replaced.

sorry for the thread hyjack
my old none ta has leaking caps what brand/ type do you use ?i would prefer to keep the tall look as it does sit better

also would you bother with the big blue caps? these dont look like there leaking but suppose might as well do them all?

Your amp needs caps bad. You risk it catching fire if you power it on.

I would not do the blue caps. They seldom leak.

Here is some info on the caps to use...

http://phoenixphorum.com/digikey-caps-s ... 14379.html

With regard to my caps in the 2250 TA Nico said they are the regular size tall ones.

KUB3 wrote:With regard to my caps in the 2250 TA Nico said they are the regular size tall ones.

Replace them then, before they blow up.

Ok then, so is there anything superior to the panasonic I've used in the past. I don't mind spending a little more as this is a keeper Black would be ideal to blend in, but other than that ideas / links welcome...

I don't use Panasonic, I use Nichicon. But, I don't know what one is superior. I only use Nichicon as they are what most of the amps came with originally.

Ok, the only other brand someone mentioned was Rubycon. I will have to search for specs and data soon...

KUB3 wrote:I don't mind spending a little more as this is a keeper

that'll be a 1st

digikey seams useless for us in the UK, they want a fortune for shipping i just get them off ebay.com, cheap enough

Cheeky monkey!

Farnell, RS, CPC get a few mentions around so I may look there. Maplins as well I guess. So that's enough places already but I wanted some top cap brands to try and narrow it down...