Phoenix Gold Phorum

I've been looking on which connector to use for my fiberglass enclosure, and came across theses. They are mainly used in high end sound system from my understanding. They seems pretty small, and look pretty stealth. Did someone already used them before? Are they any good?

Thanks in advance!

I've mainly seen them used with stage audio speakers.
P.A. systems and such.

Most of the better known companies like Peavey, JBL have them on their concert stack systems along with 1/4 plugs.

What would you recommand for fiberglass enclosure? I was thinking at first to pass wires across it and seal them, but then decided to do this right with connectors.

I would have to say wait for one of the glass gurus to answer that.

I've only dealt with MDF enclosures.
The Speakons are not a bad choice, just not sure how they would fit in fiberglass material.

If it was me, I would just go through the fiberglass and seal it from both sides with some type of sealant, but that is just me.

You could use any type of connection as long as its sealed.

they work great. you would want to glass a piece of wood to act as a solid mounting flat surface.

also, you need to fill the back of the female end of the speakon with hot glue or silicon as it leaks air.

but the quick disconnect is so handy

Another option, binding post terminal which I believe accepts banana plugs as well.

Speakons are awesome. Use them.

I'm going to KGE and MasterVox tomorrow (both are electronic warehouse) so i'm gonna check the different connectors they have, might as well buy 3-4 different ones to check which one would be the best!

Thanks for the suggestions!

Speakons are great products.

Why do you want terminals? If the box is permanent, just hard wire it by drilling some holes in the box and sealing the wire in them.

Eric D wrote:Why do you want terminals? If the box is permanent, just hard wire it by drilling some holes in the box and sealing the wire in them.

I don't have any real reasons, but just want to do things clean i guess. I want a nice and clean look, might make some custom enclosure for customers and friend, so i want mine to look as professional as possible...

I saw some really nice sealed terminal with binding posts, but they take too much space. I'd like to install the terminal on the back of the mold, invisible to the eye, and passes wires behind the trunk's carpet.

Neutrik connections are great just make sure you have enough space for it to stick out from the box. I use to make custom lengths and it was a hell of a lot cheaper.

Well, I don't know if maybe I am just nuts or what, but honestly I think no terminal is way more professional than a terminal.

Terminal = prefab cheap box

No terminal = custom made enclosure

Now, yes, I would not have the wires hanging out in an exposed way, but if you put them on the bottom or back of the box where they won't be seen, you don't need a terminal. Terminals are one more connection, which can corrode, break, come loose, etc.

I only put terminals in boxes for people who want to be able to remove the box, like in the back of an SUV for example. They may need to pull the box for more storage space. All other installations I have done the box is physically bolted into the car (both for safety, and because a loose box is ghetto) and the wires are non-stop from the speaker terminals right to the amp channels, hidden and sealed in.

If you must have a terminal, consider these or something like them...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... r=091-1247

Those are REAL terminals. All you do is drill a hole to just fit and install them. They won't leak air, and you can put enough torque on them to keep the wires from coming loose. If you space them correctly, you can use banana dual jacks.

Eric D wrote:Well, I don't know if maybe I am just nuts or what, but honestly I think no terminal is way more professional than a terminal.

Terminal = prefab cheap box

No terminal = custom made enclosure

Hey now I just built a custom made enclosure ............and it has a terminal

but then I routed out the mounting area so the cup would be flush with the carpet. It has 5 way binding post and the back was sealed.......... so no air leak.



BTW it's in an SUV



The Dayton 5-ways are nice I have used them before.





Eric I am guessing you got the 500 by now

Eric D wrote:Well, I don't know if maybe I am just nuts or what, but honestly I think no terminal is way more professional than a terminal.

Terminal = prefab cheap box

No terminal = custom made enclosure

Now, yes, I would not have the wires hanging out in an exposed way, but if you put them on the bottom or back of the box where they won't be seen, you don't need a terminal. Terminals are one more connection, which can corrode, break, come loose, etc.

I only put terminals in boxes for people who want to be able to remove the box, like in the back of an SUV for example. They may need to pull the box for more storage space. All other installations I have done the box is physically bolted into the car (both for safety, and because a loose box is ghetto) and the wires are non-stop from the speaker terminals right to the amp channels, hidden and sealed in.

If you must have a terminal, consider these or something like them...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... r=091-1247

Those are REAL terminals. All you do is drill a hole to just fit and install them. They won't leak air, and you can put enough torque on them to keep the wires from coming loose. If you space them correctly, you can use banana dual jacks.

Wow thoses are exactly what i was looking for! Thanks a bunch!

Audiophiliac wrote:Speakons are awesome. Use them.

They even make a four contact speakon terminal with would give you positive and negative for the entire box or each sub if they're DVC





They are on Parts Express

Yep, got the 500, forgot to write. Acquiring needed parts for it now. Looks good, should be nice when done.

i am quite a fan of them. one thing to consider, is most models only accept 16awg in, (which, honestly isnt a big deal over a short run with normal amounts of power

That's a fact, and i'm running 12ga for the subs, but the ones Eric linked takes up to 8ga wires so no big deal!

I ordered those exact, well gold instead, binding posts and they should be here tomorrow for my box. I will post some pics here for you to actually see them in action. They look great from what I can tell, but tomorrow I will have them in my hand so I will give you my verdict!

eulogious wrote:I ordered those exact, well gold instead, binding posts and they should be here tomorrow for my box. I will post some pics here for you to actually see them in action. They look great from what I can tell, but tomorrow I will have them in my hand so I will give you my verdict!

That'd be great!
Thanks!

I got them right now in my hand. The mail man didn't come until 4pm my time, and I was sound asleep

I will be installing them into my box here at work (might as well get paid for it right? ), and I will take pics and post them here in a few...

Alrighty then. I like these alot! They look awesome and professional

Pics!

Here's what's in the package:



Here it is before hammering it down:



In:





This is my one gripe I have about these. Since these binding posts accept up to 8awg wire, you would think that the soldering tabs would also except 8awg wire as well, because if you are running 8awg to the box, you will also want 8awg to the speaker as well. But the tabs don't accpet 8awg! Maybe 16awg, but not even the 12awg that I am using! Kinda stupid if you ask me. So I had to use lots of flux and solder to make sure the connection was good, so it worked out, but you would think the solder tabs would accept up to 8awg wire, not a maximum of 16awg



One all soldered up:



Both all soldered up w/heatshrink for good measure:



In the box!



Finished product:



So I will be using these again for sure! Probably for every box I build. The solder tab isn't that big of a deal, just more of a WTF thing. I like the idea of a solder tab as well. That way I know that the connection will always be good in the box. It's soldered!

I really like these and would recommend them to anyone building a box!

Looking great! I'll probably order 3-4 sets just in case, then will decide if i install them or not

I found these in a parts bin at the office. They were used for military communications equipment installed in vehicles that required 12 or 24 VDC.

To mount, I drilled a pilot hole and then countersunk the insulating washers - for physical security, complete air sealing and they look better. They will hold up to 8ga and have spiked terminals to ensure a good bite.