Phoenix Gold Phorum

I've heard about the PC 15/20, but haven't seen much about the Tantrum 10f grid. Does this have the same issues as the PC?

the 10 or just as bad as the 20f same thing just smaller(less caps)
i think they were the first to have problems than the 20f so they were replaced with the 15f

Alright, thanks. I figured that would be the answer.

I hate to muddy up the thread with non-PG cap's but Stinger offers 5, 10 and 50 that do not have the problems that the older Powercore caps are having (of course because they are new). Take a look at the 3 here:

can we custom order them with phoenix gold instead of stinger on them?

todd217 wrote:can we custom order them with phoenix gold instead of stinger on them?

The only way that would happen I imagine would be to order 500 of them. I am pretty sure the Stinger badge is removable but as of now we do not have any PG badges.

Those caps look like they match the newer line of PG amps?! I like the look.

What will the price be on those?

Im probably going to end up getting one of those. I like the thought of having one big cap which also acts as a distro block. It would be hard to install though with it being the only thing that is not PG.

I really will never understand why you guys do not put the money that you are spending on caps towards fixing the real problem and upgrading your alt/batt?

I will also spend the time/money to upgrade alt/bat & big 3...

Its because salesmen at audio shops sell them to unknowing people as much needed equipment and make money selling them whereas if they tell the truth and suggest upgrading a charging system properly the store and them make no money as most shops don't sell alternators or batteries.

ttocs wrote:I really will never understand why you guys do not put the money that you are spending on caps towards fixing the real problem and upgrading your alt/batt?

I know what we charge for a truly custom built 220 amp alternator (not a rewound fire hazard) and it is considerably cheaper to go the cap/hybrid cap route. Yes it is not the answer but when you have $200 in your wallet and new gear costs:

Car Audio Battery - $150+
Alternator - $600+
Cap - $200+

It is an easier step for most guys to get a cap and take care of most of the problem with one piece of gear. A lot of guys on this board are not rocking amps that are drawing 100+ amps so a decent starting battery and factory alternator in good condition will be fine as long as a capacitor is installed to give the amplifier the "burst" of power the system needs when the amplifier demands it. Hell I would love it for everyone to start at the battery and work their way back but that is just not reality nor is it even necessary.

Hey guys,
well I've been reading tons on this whole Battery vs capicitor and seems to me that this thread has gone sideways anyway ..... anyhoo I'm gonna be steppin up and running almost 3K daily and yes i know i will need a new alt. and possibly a battery in back which will be coming soon. I've had this stinger cap for the last year and used it as a combo distro block and cap obviously. Most hardcore bassheads think a cap puts more strain on the alt. and does not charge as fast as it discharges hereby you will lose amp power and wear down your alt eventually causing death eventually. their arguments are convincing for sure and i'm thinking about doing away with the 35 farad cap what to do.
also Zak wondering how old this unit is? i bought it locally last year seems to work as it should.

nice

yup everything out yesterday... except the back speakers off the deck.
wow my trunk is huge
I'm gonna start building the new box as soon as i get the blueprint from PWK, that way it's ready to haul as soon as i get home hopefully. July 10 leaving.

AAMP217 wrote:

ttocs wrote:I really will never understand why you guys do not put the money that you are spending on caps towards fixing the real problem and upgrading your alt/batt?

I know what we charge for a truly custom built 220 amp alternator (not a rewound fire hazard) and it is considerably cheaper to go the cap/hybrid cap route. Yes it is not the answer but when you have $200 in your wallet and new gear costs:

Car Audio Battery - $150+
Alternator - $600+
Cap - $200+

It is an easier step for most guys to get a cap and take care of most of the problem with one piece of gear. A lot of guys on this board are not rocking amps that are drawing 100+ amps so a decent starting battery and factory alternator in good condition will be fine as long as a capacitor is installed to give the amplifier the "burst" of power the system needs when the amplifier demands it. Hell I would love it for everyone to start at the battery and work their way back but that is just not reality nor is it even necessary.

I was taught that caps are voltage storage devices, while our amps are current dependant systems. Bigger caps add a little bit of current but are still just bling to fill the pockets of the manf IMO. Sure you can half ass yer way outta almost anything but I think most of us have learned you get what you pay for. When we are buying amps of this quality that can demand the current they can I see no reason half ass it.

I will say once again that in my own vehicles I have never had a problem that required a cap, and never had to repair a problem cause by a cap. YEs I do know how much a true HO alt costs, do it right, do it once and you save time and money PERIOD