Phoenix Gold Phorum

Ok, so I went and grab a nice ti fuse block off of craigslist. The one thing that I didn't check was the wire in/out. This on is a 0awg in, and 0awg out So after I took it apart, I think that I am ok after a bit of work...









I was thinking that it was the 0awg in, and 2 4awg out. I didn't even know that they made such a thing! I even researched it a little bit and saw no mention of this configuration. When I picked up it, I was tired, and didn't even look until I got home Oh well, it was only $20!

So, does anyone have a ti fuse block that has 0wg in and 2 4awg out that they would like to trade Shot in the dark, but I can at least try!

So since I probably won't be able to trade this thing off, is there anyone that has the 2 4awg pieces I need to make this work the way I want?

What I think I am going to end up doing is tearing down my fuse/distro that I have now that has the pieces that I need, and I will just re-drill and re-tap them so that I can just screw them down where there supposed to be for now. I will have to make the 0awg hole a little bit bigger to accept 2 4awg wire, instead of 1 0awg wire, but I think it will work.

I will probably have to look for some other pieces (what are these called??) that are gold to fit in there at some point, and I think that I might take it and get it powder coated white to match my zx450 I am getting, since I am messing it up anyways. That way the rust will be gone as well

You think this will work? What do you all think?

Oh and you like my custom plexy in it? Thanks H!

hmmm...no d-block there. just a glorified 0 gauge fuse holder! There's a good chance it wasn't a production piece and just made specifically for someone.

dedlyjedly wrote:hmmm...no d-block there. just a glorified 0 gauge fuse holder! There's a good chance it wasn't a production piece and just made specifically for someone.

That's what it looks like. It seems these are modular, so you can just swap pieces out The only confusing thing is the case has only 1 opening, so that was at least manufactured by PG, or someone...

That´s a regular production piece from PG. I think i have the parts to convert it to a 1 in and 2 out unit. Have to look thru all my parts tonight! All u would have to do to get two wires out of the housing is making the hole oval

joerg wrote:That´s a regular production piece from PG. I think i have the parts to convert it to a 1 in and 2 out unit. Have to look thru all my parts tonight! All u would have to do to get two wires out of the housing is making the hole oval

Dude if you have those parts I would be soooo thankful!! LMK...

I grabbed two pieces of 4awg to test fit it, and I would just barely have to make it wider, but that's no big deal at all!

even if you swap out that end, does the metal case have openings for 2 wires rather then one?

not sure why someone would do that, not you them it is really strange.

not feelin the plexi personally.

ttocs wrote:even if you swap out that end, does the metal case have openings for 2 wires rather then one?

not sure why someone would do that, not you them it is really strange.

not feelin the plexi personally.

No, there's only one opening on the case, but all I have to do is take a dermel to it and make it bigger. It's bigger than 0awg for sure, but just barely too small for 2 4awg wire to go through. Once it's bigger, I'll throw a bigger grommet on it to make it look normaler...

The only reason I can think that someone would do this is for an amp that took 0awg in, and the amp itself wasn't fused. Say like the One (I believe it's not fused internally, I could be wrong...). Did the 1200.1 take 0awg in?

The dude I bought it from said that it came from someone on here, a corey something or other from the Federal Way area. He specifically mentioned the Phoenix Phorum, and he said the guy had all ti gear. So take that for what it's worth...

Ya, I am not too sure on the plexi either... I like it because it's rare, and if I powder coat it white, I think it will look good then. I still have the original plexi if I want to swap it out, but I am going to rock it for now!

It may be my peabrain speaking, but just using a crimp/solder connector would not be a vaild option perhaps?

Like this one as example:
http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/prod ... ont200.jpg

I know it would not make full contact out of the box, but inserting and fastening it in that fuse block will make it settle (flatter shape)
This gives more surface area to conduct power/current, then after it settled as much as it will go, take it out again and solder it permanently on there.
Most of all it would allow the fuse block to stay in it's original condition.

I do realise it's a bit of a hassle, and does not garantee optimum conductivity though.

If all else fails, I will borrow my buddies fuse block that I just gave him for his install, grab the pieces I need, take it up to a friend of mine in Bellingham, have him make a mold, and then use his foundry to make the proper pieces out of gold. Then use his milling machine to fix up anything that might need touched up. Shouldn't cost too much. Just time. This is a last resort though, but it is doable, since I have the pieces I can copy over at a friends house. I should have just kept the ti fuse block for myself. Meh.

Just found a picture of my distro stash

Now i´m sure i have your parts!

Joerg, YGPM!

Nice stash dude!!

And just like that I solve my problems! I love the phorum!!

Joerg is going to send me my parts, and I will send him mine that I will not need, can't shake a stick at that!

Thanks Joerg, you rock man!

Always willing to help out Phoenix Gold addicts!

joerg wrote:Just found a picture of my distro stash

Now i´m sure i have your parts!

That single picture caused some excessive drooling over here...

Dagnabbit Joerg, you owe me a new keyboard buddy!

man you can probable even take the connectors out of teh cheaper clear plastic ones as I would be suprised if they are different other ten the packaging the come in.

For a small piece like that I would probably just paint and clear unless you plan on burying it somewhere that will expose it to damage and scratching.

ttocs wrote:man you can probable even take the connectors out of teh cheaper clear plastic ones as I would be suprised if they are different other ten the packaging the come in.

For a small piece like that I would probably just paint and clear unless you plan on burying it somewhere that will expose it to damage and scratching.

Ya, that's what my thought was too. I think my cheap plastic one has the same looking connector, and I was going to try those and see what happened, but since I found some PG pieces, might as well use those and keep it PG

You know, I was thinking that I should just rattle can it. Lot's cheaper to do that, AND it will match my white zx450 much better that way, and prevent rust! I will just buy some decent paint and not go cheap, and I think it will work out great! I am just mounting it next to my 450 once I get it, so it won't get beat up or anything, so I think just some rattle can paint and a coat of clear would be just fine. Thanks for the reminding me to use the K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid) principal

nice Joerg.

I think I have almost as many of those 1/0g compression blocks as you do the ring version.

isn't there a bunch of cheaper ones on the for sale section that people were buyin off of craigs list?

Ok, so I got to looking around the manual and stuff that I found on the phorum, but I don't think the manual is the same as mine. So I have a couple of questions on how this thing works.

So what is the smaller wire input for, the ground? Why would I want to ground this thing? There is an on/off switch, what is that for? Is there anything else I should know about it?

I heard that I don't want to ground it because it causes a constant power draw. Is that true? What's the power drain from?

I think that is all, for now! Thanks all!

ttocs wrote:isn't there a bunch of cheaper ones on the for sale section that people were buyin off of craigs list?

Ya, I am trying to get those, no luck so far

Pretty sure the toggle switch and the input wire have to do with the status LEDs that visually indicate whether the fuse is OK.

stipud wrote:Pretty sure the toggle switch and the input wire have to do with the status LEDs that visually indicate whether the fuse is OK.

Bingo. Congratulations you've won this fantastic living room furniture set.

These LED's are a tad different than the ti fused distro's with the kf fuses that you can plug a RMD directly into, but I cant' remember exactly what they are. I've had or have both kinds, but didn't ever get them hooked up to mess with this.

You can plug a RMD directly into this one, but it does not have KF fuse I believe…

If that's all it does, then who cares? It should have a remote wire for the switch to turn it on and off. You know, maybe I will just wire in a micro relay that kicks on with the remote turn on, and remove the switch. I guess I could keep the switch and have it both ways… There's lots of empty space to fit a micro relay in that case. That way it would only be on, when the stereo is on You think they would have done that already…. This is assuming that's what the switch is for.

Thanks for the info so far!

The kf fused ones that take the rmd have a ground and remote wire hookup for the LED's.

The one you have you can hook up a ZRDT3 into it, but not an RMD. RMD won't work, mhyde and Joerg tried it. You can however mod yours to work with an RMD.

ZRDT3 or whatever are status led's like the amps have (red, green, yellow), but not in a fancy box type package/presentation.

rscecil007 wrote:The kf fused ones that take the rmd have a ground and remote wire hookup for the LED's.

The one you have you can hook up a ZRDT3 into it, but not an RMD. RMD won't work, mhyde and Joerg tried it. You can however mod yours to work with an RMD.

ZRDT3 or whatever are status led's like the amps have (red, green, yellow), but not in a fancy box type package/presentation.

I was unaware of that, thanks for the heads up! How do you mod it to work with an RMD? I am interested in that...