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Sub enclosure terminal recommendations
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 7:18 pm
by JayGold
Can anyone point me to some high end, nice gold plated banana plug style sub enclosure terminal cups/mounts/etc.?
Or am I stuck with these:
http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Banana-S ... d_sxp_f_pt
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 7:48 pm
by gridracer
I use GM battery terminals on my boxes that way its always a good connection and easy to rewire for trouble shooting or whatever. Have to use the long bolt for diesels applications though.

Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 7:53 pm
by JayGold
^^^^^^How do you install and wire these correctly through 3/4" MDF?
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 7:57 pm
by gridracer
Drill a hole just a little smaller than the bolt and hammer them in,on the inside you use a nut to connect the wire with a ring terminal from the speaker and the outside is just like you would have at the battery connection.
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 7:59 pm
by tonym
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:03 pm
by JayGold
gridracer, thanks for the info.
This is the part which I was looking for (drill type install) since I have a beautiful mahogany 1 cu/ft enclosure which I'm attempting to not cut into any more than I have to...thanks!
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:04 pm
by gridracer
One reason I use those battery bolts besides conveniance is I get them for $1 each.
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:19 pm
by JayGold
gridracer wrote:One reason I use those battery bolts besides conveniance is I get them for $1 each.
Almost free

Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 9:40 pm
by AAMP217
JayGold wrote:gridracer wrote:One reason I use those battery bolts besides conveniance is I get them for $1 each.
Almost free

PM me your address bro, i think i got something for ya.
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 9:47 pm
by KHPower
Those are what I use in my boxes. Those big square terminals just add weekness and air holes in the enclosures. With these daytonas you can solder your wire on em and have minmal resistance and still have a solid box IMO
Remember terminals have a lot to do with the sub boxes performance and cant be overlooked. IN some boxes a drilled hole and some mighty puty works to if your a resistance freak lol
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 9:49 pm
by Bfowler
i dig that one too, i use those almost exclusively now
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:14 pm
by gridracer
AAMP217 wrote:JayGold wrote:gridracer wrote:One reason I use those battery bolts besides conveniance is I get them for $1 each.
Almost free

PM me your address bro, i think i got something for ya.
Me or jaygold?
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:31 pm
by KHPower
Bfowler wrote:
i dig that one too, i use those almost exclusively now
They are great in my opinion and they also take to solder well

Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:56 pm
by eulogious
x2 I got 2 sets of them. I have installed one set and I love'm. Really clean looking, and easy to install. Fairly cheap as well. Good stuff!
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:14 am
by ttocs
I would prefer the gm terminals personally. The idea of a ring terminal screwed on and being more secure is what I like.
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:35 am
by eulogious
The dayton ones actually come with a ring terminal that you solder the wire to. You don't actually solder the wire to the post it's self...
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 6:28 am
by ttocs
no, on the outside....
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 6:44 am
by eulogious
ttocs wrote:no, on the outside....
Gotcha. That makes sense, and could be useful...
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:13 am
by AAMP217
Wouldn't the GM terminals leave a large unexposed area that could short the amplifier outputs or cuase fire? Unless there is a way to cover them
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:17 am
by KHPower
ttocs wrote:I would prefer the gm terminals personally. The idea of a ring terminal screwed on and being more secure is what I like.
Well the dayton ones are. They are bolted from the inside. and the outside you can screw them as hard as need be. but both terms should work well
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:18 am
by KHPower
AAMP217 wrote:Wouldn't the GM terminals leave a large unexposed area that could short the amplifier outputs or cuase fire? Unless there is a way to cover them
Guess it depends on how you insulate the speaker leads. or just spray em down with spray electrical tape

Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 9:44 am
by ttocs
they are both uninsulated. The gm is larger, yes.
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 11:49 am
by KHPower
ttocs wrote:they are both uninsulated. The gm is larger, yes.
The GM one doesnt even have a terminal clip or a soldering joint so why would ya wanna section 8 it like that? Pay the extra 3 and get a professional post and leave the GM where it belongs , the battery just my 2 cents
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:16 pm
by ttocs
you can use an regular ring-terminal on both side and it is is just as solid and still cheaper. you can solder the ring if you really want to solder.
Heck I have never even used the gm termial I just run wire out the box but I can see the simplicity and $$$ savings.
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:41 pm
by tonym
KHPower wrote:ttocs wrote:they are both uninsulated. The gm is larger, yes.
The GM one doesnt even have a terminal clip or a soldering joint so why would ya wanna section 8 it like that? Pay the extra 3 and get a professional post and leave the GM where it belongs , the battery just my 2 cents
LOL @ section 8
not everyone will know what you mean....