need help installing JL 1000/1 and JL w7 12

vipka9 · Post by **vipka9** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 9:38 pm

hey guys i moved down from my phoenix outlaw and now running a jl setup but after i took out my phoenix gold using 4g wires i connected my Jl 1000/1 and it says LOW V and was wondering how can i fix this its making me angry i was running the w7 with the outlaw and it ran it like a runner. how can i fix this LOW V

Post by **Bfowler** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 10:12 pm

did you change the ground?

the 1000.1 shouldnt need more then 4g. can you elaborate on your install

what are you running your interior speakers with now?

vipka9 · Post by **vipka9** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 11:16 pm

my install is a 4 g power 4 gauge ground straight to the body 1 farad cap, interior is bose stock and a stock headunit and it runs great i didnt feel i needed to change anything and a remote wire running to my stock bose amp fuse and a pac rca adapter frm best buy.

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 11:25 pm

What is saying "LOW V"? I didn't know there was a LCD readout on the 1000/1... Are you using a RMD? More details on your install would really help to narrow down what might be wrong. Sounds like you have a RMD, and its now not working once you installed the 1000/2, but I am not sure...

Is your amp actually working? If not, what exactly is it doing or not doing as the case may be?

vipka9 · Post by **vipka9** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 12:01 am

my amp is working it turns on There are four lights on the 1000/1 v1 its not LED readout its just four little lights on the top POWER(green) THERMAL(red) LOW OHM(yellow) AND LOW V(blue) the power would be on then it would hit really hard for a little bit then it would switch over to LOW V then cut off then switch back on the POWER, RMD?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2158/251 ... c20d29.jpg

its on the left side it switches back and fourth i looked all over the infornet and all the solutions say get a farad cap. and i have one! and is hooked up also . ground is a 4 gauge only about 2 feet in length close to the amp power has a fuse and all wires secure!

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 1:15 am

A RMD is a remote voltage monitor that PG made, and it can say LOW V as well, or something to that affect. That's why I thought maybe you had one of those installed with your outlaw.

Well, I will give you my experience when working with this amp. I should say my buddies experience.

He has an older subaru with a whopping 55amp alt

and he decided that he was going to throw a 1000/1 and a 12w7 into it, just like you. Well, the first time he cranked it, the car immediately died (I don't know if his amp as the voltage protection on it, I don't know enough about JL amps to say...). He started it, tired again, same thing. This is with a fully charged optima yellow top as well. The charging system literally could not handle the 100 amp dram that the 1000/1 will pull at full tilt. What he ended up doing was buying a 18 farad cap, and once that was installed, the car would run when the 1000/1 was running at full tilt.

To me it just sounds like your charging system can't give the amp the required current that it needs.

The first thing I would do is try to find an alt that is larger than 100amps for your car. At least then it might stand a fighting chance against the 1000/1. I don't think that 1 farad cap is going to do the trick with the 1000/1. That amp is a beast, and requires GOBS of power to run it.

Post by **smgreen20** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 7:58 am

Eulogious is on the right track. The cars electrical system can't keep up w/what the amp needs. You need to upgrade the cars electrical system, try the "big 3" and see if that helps, if not a bigger alt and battery might be required.

The amp draws so much current that the voltage drops, it continues to drop to the point that the amp can't operate.

Post by **kg1961** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 8:16 am

also you should not have the gain turn very high on that amp its have more power than your sub needs go to jl web site they even show your were you should have it set for the best power to that sub
its in the older v1 manuel.
and yes you car might not be able to handle the larger power draw
do the big 3 fix your gains if not your going to have to change your alt.
with this being said make sure your amp is fine

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 8:42 am

are you sayting the green power light is not on or that the low ohms(impedence) light is on?

vipka9 · Post by **vipka9** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:46 pm

its on it would go steady for a good 5 or 10 minutes then switch over to low V then switch back and do the same thing. it happens more often when i turn it up and right now it is at the settings of the JL website and the bass is turned down to 4+ out of the 16+ i can go to and it isstill happening

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:58 pm

what do you mean low voltage? Is low impedence light comming on of some other series fo flashes?

AAMP217 · Post by **AAMP217** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 5:18 pm

Do you have a voltmeter (DMM)? If so hook it up at the amplifiers power and ground terminals and watch what the voltage readout on the meter does while it's playing. If it drops below 10.5 volts then the charging system is your issue, if not then the install or amp is the suspect. I suggest starting there.

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 5:38 pm

I would start simple and check your grounds and powe wires. Make sure that the fuse is in tight and all the cables are tightened down. Give a good pull on the wiring both power and ground and make sure that nothing is loose.

What is your gain set at

vipka9 · Post by **vipka9** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 9:56 pm

no low impedence light or anything just low v i checked my wires and did a pull and check on yhe wires no buildup cleaned out terminals and even changed out the farad cap for just a splitter it doesnt occur often i drove from seattle to portland and its doing okay but i want to push it to atleast 75% but cant even do that

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 9:59 pm

so it dies as soon as you have it over 3/4 full volume or does it take some time to heat up first? Any chance it is still under warrenty or is that why you are asking here?

What speakers is it driving? Maybe try a different set of speakers or if you have it bridged to a pair see what would happen if it is only playing one speaker.

davewaibel · Post by **davewaibel** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 7:58 am

I have several of these amplifiers running off of a stock alternator- (lots of kinetiks), you have to have a crappy connection on your power wire, or your battery is dying, diodes,regulator, blah,blah- go have your charging system checked at the local parts store, and take a look at your main power wire running to the amp- hey ttocs- no bridging, its a jl1000/1- I will cut you some slack since your in the hospital.... the low voltage light comes on around 10 volts- so you definitely have a charging issue- how old is the battery?

vipka9 · Post by **vipka9** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:26 pm

ill def. check the power wires again.. maybe take apart the whole wiring and just start over and see where its failing. i know its not the sub because when i was running a phoenix gold outlaw it ran perfectly and when i put the jl on its acting silly so i need to def. check that out. if not im going to trade it for a friends audison amp. im really looking towards of trying to get a audison or mcintosh amp but having a hard time finding it. i seen someone with a pq20 i think ads. amp and i hit him up asking for a trade but well see how it goess. maybe i should just check in with cartoys and ask them to help me out im getting tired of not being able to run it. i ran the phoenix g. outlaw for 8 hours on and off on a car trip and it would only shut off once or so this Jl is a piece of poo head

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:31 pm

what kind of car is this in? I wonder if it isn't just choking your electrical system. Do the lights dim much? What is the amp rating of your alt?

vipka9 · Post by **vipka9** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:45 pm

2000 acura rl!!!! no dimming? my dash doesnt even dim amp on the alt i would not know other then its the stock alt. i only worked on my exterior ahah

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:58 pm

the only other thing I can thnk of is a longshot. have you upgraded your factory power/ground wires? That jl can pull some current and I am willing to bet your factory grounds are 8 awg or less and it could be choking your system.

Try the amp with a different sub, and if it still does it then try it in a different car?

vipka9 · Post by **vipka9** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 4:13 pm

im actually using a 4 gauge wire tryed the sub with a different amp. i have not tryed the amp with a different sub willing to try thatt let me see if i have timee today and ill get to that thanks guys doe all the answwers and suggestions

vipka9 · Post by **vipka9** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 4:14 pm

oh factory wire let me check it out today misread the post

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 5:08 pm

yes the wires that go from the battery to the chassis, the chassis to the block an the power wire from the alt to the battery. Check out how big those are and then compair it to your 4 awg you ran. You can run double 0/1 awg if you wanted but with an 8 awg wire supplying them it doesn't do much good...

Try both a diferent sub as well as if you can bench test the amp or put it in another car. This will help us narrow down if it is the car, the amp, or the sub.

vipka9 · Post by **vipka9** » Mon Jul 26, 2010 12:24 pm

okay so upgrading the ground in my engine bay today wish me luck i cant find the ground to the engine to chassis

oldschoolfan · Post by **oldschoolfan** » Mon Jul 26, 2010 2:06 pm

It is very possible the ground cable from the battery has two leads right from the terminal. One to the chassis and the other to the engine, often where the engine meets the transmission. Honda is funny because their engines sit backwards from everyone else's front wheel drives.