Seem Normal?

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:49 pm

Hey folks, in my Colt the average voltage seems to be sticking closer to 14.2 as opposed to the 14.4 I am used to when the car is driving. Does it seem like a drop of .2 volts should be cause for concern?

I am thinking my Optima under the hood might be weakening the chain. It goes 200 amp alternator-optima yellow-relay-stinger sp1000-Powercore 15 Farad-amps.

When my relay is engaged, the sp1000 voltage drops so the Optima is clearly the weaker between the two and it is pulling voltage off to try to balance itself with the Stinger, when the relay is disengaged, the stinger sp1000 voltage goes back up a bit.

It seems like I am answering my own question but does anyone else have any other theories? Could the alt belt just be getting old and maybe allowing a little more slippage? I haven't heard any sqeaking while I was driving or anything...well I guess I did one night, but the next time I checked the belt didn't feel damaged...

I will check the resting optima voltage tomorrow before I start the car and may get my answer but other theories would be very appreciated.

If the Optima is dying, I am so done with Optima.

Post by **stipud** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:36 am

Why run two different batteries?

Pick your favorite, and run it on it's own.

tsonka · Post by **tsonka** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:18 am

I would not be concerned with .2 volt.

Persnally if it was my car as long as its 14v+ I wouldnt be concerned. Yea there may be an amp wattage increase from 14v-14.4v but if it is enough to make a difference in your set up you need a stronger amp in general. But from looking at your set up I dont think its gonne make enough difference to worry about.

444 FED · Post by **444 FED** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:56 am

People would kill to have thier system voltage atay even near 14V, let alone above 14V.

Post by **stipud** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:58 am

tsonka wrote:I would not be concerned with .2 volt.

Persnally if it was my car as long as its 14v+ I wouldnt be concerned. Yea there may be an amp wattage increase from 14v-14.4v but if it is enough to make a difference in your set up you need a stronger amp in general. But from looking at your set up I dont think its gonne make enough difference to worry about.

The only concern I have is that there is a relay between two different types of batteries. If the stinger operates at a higher voltage than the Optima, the Optima will constantly try to drain it, so in this case I think it may be better to just run the Stinger on it's own.

Anyone else have any suggestions? I have never done the whole multi-battery thing, but I hear it is a pain if they aren't the same type of battery, and situated right next to eachother.

Post by **Bfowler** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:08 am

i know PG made an isolator....that is all i know.

fordtough1 · Post by **fordtough1** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:13 am

There are 2 of those isolators on fleabay right now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PHOENIX-GOLD-AMP-BA ... dZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... &rd=1&rd=1

If you are interested.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:18 am

The reason I have the relay there is so the Optima can't drain the stinger. The relay acts as an isolator. It only lets the batteries see each other when my ignition is on. When the car is off, the 2 batteries can't battle each other for voltage. While the car is running and the relay is open, I suppose the Optima could be fighting the stinger though but then at least both batteries are constantly charging.

Thanks for your responses, I was a little worried because I am always paranoid and have had so many probs in the past.

I have thought about running the one battery but am not sure I should.

You guys think an SP1000 and a 15 Farad Powercore would be plenty of power? If I did this, would I just need to add a ditribution block where the battery under the hood currently lies? Or would I need to get the Stinger to the underhood location?

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:23 am

fordtough1 wrote:There are 2 of those isolators on fleabay right now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PHOENIX-GOLD-AMP-BA ... dZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... &rd=1&rd=1

If you are interested.

Interested yes but I am not sure how these isolators would work differently than the way my relay is currently set up. My relay is acting as an isolator when the car is off. While the car is on it is charging both batteries.

Also, is a 130 amp isolator safe if I am running a 200amp alternator?

Post by **stipud** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:33 am

The isolator is just a high current relay that keeps the batteries from draining each other. What kind of relay do you have in place? Is it suited for the current you are passing?

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:38 am

Yes it is a Stinger SR200 designed to take up to 200. So my relay is doing about the same thing an Isolator would do right?

Post by **stipud** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:17 am

Sounds like an isolator to me. It certainly does seem to be working if you are getting a voltage drop when the car is turned on.

Post by **VW337** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:54 am

Relay/solenoid > Isolator

An Isolator is a giant diode pack, and you will have a guaranteed voltage drop just using one do to the nature of diodes. The Solenoid/relay on the other hand is superior as there is little or no voltage loss inherent in the design it also handles far greater current demand in a far smaller package with a lower failure rate.

If you are having a voltage drop I suggest fully charging the yellowtop fully overnight with a 2amp trickle charger. See if that helps.

Phoenixcolt · Post by **Phoenixcolt** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 3:15 pm

VW337 wrote:Relay/solenoid > Isolator

An Isolator is a giant diode pack, and you will have a guaranteed voltage drop just using one do to the nature of diodes. The Solenoid/relay on the other hand is superior as there is little or no voltage loss inherent in the design it also handles far greater current demand in a far smaller package with a lower failure rate.

If you are having a voltage drop I suggest fully charging the yellowtop fully overnight with a 2amp trickle charger. See if that helps.

I think your right, I am guessing the optima needs a serious charge...when I had all these battery probs a while ago, the optima died so I am thinking it never fully recovered but should charge overnight well because the battery is only a few months old.

Post by **VW337** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:11 pm

An alternator will never fully charge a weakened battery, it will only level the voltage to what it should be, but in this matter it is never truly charged to it's potential.

brenzbmr@sb · Post by **brenzbmr@sb** » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:13 am

second thing to add is your also adding more load to the alternator
when you engage the relay

if that optima is low then yeah its gonna become a load.

my honest advise is to get two of the same batteries....

pick one and dump the other..

you have too many variables with mismatched batteries.

you should really try a kinetic audio battery........................

good lluck

also i agree with errin on the solenoid versus isolater...
rather use a solenoid to seperate the batteries.

Post by **AVICJR** » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:23 am

brenzbmr@sb wrote: my honest advise is to get two of the same batteries....

Exact same battery, or two alike brands? Ex. 2 Optima yellowtops or maybe a yellowtop and a cheaper Optima blue or red top? I need another battery that's why I'm asking.

dedlyjedly · Post by **dedlyjedly** » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:26 am

Exact same battery. Same model, same production batch.

Post by **stipud** » Thu Apr 26, 2007 6:34 am

Even then, if the batteries aren't located right next to each other, the power cable will offer enough resistance to cause a drain.