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RSdC124 Box Size and Line Driver Question

Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:22 am
by eulogious
Hello All!

So I am finally getting a RSdC124 sub to put into my car :hurr: So I was thinking about the box that this guy needs to go in and then I decided to look at the design of the box that I built for my fosgate p3.

Here's the plans for that box:

Image

I really like the size of this box. It fits really nice in the back of my car. So I was curious if I could just build another box according to the same specs, and just throw the RSdC124 into that and be good. I would have to change the mounting hole and little things like that, but it's the cu.ft that I really care about. Here's the numbers and differences between my box and the manual specs.

Box size from the manual:

For SQ 1.17 cu ft, for SPL 0.72 cu ft, woofer displacement 0.13 cu ft

My box specs adjusted for the RSdC124:

Total cu ft 1.158, with RSdC124 installed 1.028 cu ft.

So my box's airspace ends up being about .142 cuf t smaller than the recommended size for SQ (I am going for SQ BTW). But I really don't think that it will matter that much because my box falls in-between the two recommended box sizes, so it should be ok, I just might lose some SQ, but I am ok with that.

I am correct on this? I am going to be building another box just like this as well for my buddy, so I want to make sure that I don't kill 2 woofers by doing this ;)

On to the line driver... I will be getting a TLD44 here shortly, and I am curious on not how it works, but how my amps will handle the boosted input voltage. Mainly because I "daisy chain" my amps together. I have the aux out of my zx450 going into my ti400.2. The line driver will be powering the inputs of the zx450.

I am making a guess, but I think that the zx450 should just forward the voltage that it receives, so therefore my ti400.2 (soon to be zx500) will be getting around 8v as well as the zx450.

Is my thinking correct in this as well?

I just like to know that I am doing things correctly, so if these questions seem dumb, they probably are, but I just like to double check, since I am fairly new to all of this :D

Thanks all!

Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:20 am
by stipud
The box size will be fine. Add 1lb of polyfill to it if you want, which helps "embiggen" the box ;)

As for the linedriver voltage, the amps just forward the input voltage right out the aux-out. Volts in = volts out.

Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:28 am
by eulogious
stipud wrote:The box size will be fine. Add 1lb of polyfill to it if you want, which helps "embiggen" the box ;)

As for the linedriver voltage, the amps just forward the input voltage right out the aux-out. Volts in = volts out.
Thanks for confirming for me man! I figured that's what the amps did, but I just wanted confirmation :D

Where's the best place to get polyfill? I will grab 2 lbs of it, 1 lbs for me, the other for my buddy. Can I get that stuff at my local hardware store (Loew's, Homedepot)?

Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:36 am
by ttocs
craft stores and I think sometimes even walmart carries polyfill, its just pillow stuffing.

Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:58 am
by eulogious
ttocs wrote:craft stores and I think sometimes even walmart carries polyfill, its just pillow stuffing.
Sweet, I am on my way to wally world right now, so I will check them out! Thanks man!

Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 6:57 pm
by eulogious
So I got back from wally world and they had poly fill in the craft section :) It was $3 for 16oz (1lbs) so it was perfect! I grabbed 2 bags just to have it on hand for my buddies install. The subs were delivered today, so now I am getting excited :D Thanks for confirming all this and pointing my ignorant ass to where to poly fill is :D

Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 7:17 pm
by ttocs
glad to help dude. I am going to be making that same trip here shortly as I going to cramp my rsdc104s into my box my 4 8's currently house.

Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 2:34 am
by eulogious
Ok, so I updated my diagram to reflect the new sub:

Image

Hopefully this weekend I can just all the wood I need and get this box built :)

Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 5:26 am
by ttocs
personally I like the face that the sub mounts to, to be as big as possible to help make it stronger and keep from stripping screws as easy in the thin section. I would make the board with the hole in it 16 x 13.5 and then design the cuts from there.

Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 5:37 am
by eulogious
ttocs wrote:personally I like the face that the sub mounts to, to be as big as possible to help make it stronger and keep from stripping screws as easy in the thin section. I would make the board with the hole in it 16 x 13.5 and then design the cuts from there.
Now that you mention it, I think that is what I actually ended up doing with the box I have now... I will have to check that when I get home from work. But I do agree that would be the better way to go. :hmm:

Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:18 am
by Bfowler
good call^

when you put the screws through to hold the box together, it would potentially poke through the whole you made to mount the sub too.

Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 4:19 am
by eulogious
eulogious wrote:Now that you mention it, I think that is what I actually ended up doing with the box I have now... I will have to check that when I get home from work. But I do agree that would be the better way to go. :hmm:
Image

I think that answers that question :)

Thanks all for the tips on the box and the poly fill. I got it all screwed and glued up, and it sounds great! The poly fill makes a difference I think, it seems louder. But that could be the sub as well. But anyways, thanks all!

Now I just need to get around to installing my line driver...

Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 4:22 am
by str3atwarrior
polyfill does indead makes a huge difference!

Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 4:30 am
by ttocs
you also want to try and avoid throwing screws into the corners like that as the wood likes to chip. I normally space them out 2-3" from the corner to prevent chipping.

Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 4:32 am
by eulogious
ttocs wrote:you also want to try and avoid throwing screws into the corners like that as the wood likes to chip. I normally space them out 2-3" from the corner to prevent chipping.
For sure. I was lucky and it didn't crack. My pilot holes were good enough to avoid that. But I think when I put my buddies box together i will space it farther from the corners, just in case. And it's good practice...

Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 6:15 am
by ttocs
I normally do a really technical method of measuring and give it the width of 3 fingers in each direction. Spacing the screws evenly also gives a much more professional look to it.

How does it sound. I am trying to finish up some details on my rear seat delete as the eq mounting wasn't as good as I would like it so I am re-doing it now. I look forward to modifying my box for my rsdc104s that I am installing next and can't wait to hear the difference from my 8s.

Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 6:28 am
by eulogious
I don't really care about screw placement as this box will get carpeted at some point here in the future so you won't be able to see the screws. If I wasn't going to carpet it, I would actually use a filler and fill in the screws and paint it black or something. But carpet is easier and works just as good...

I really haven't listened to it that much, I installed it at 11:30pm last night, and have only had a chance to listen to it on breaks at work, but I like it alot more than my fosgate so far. There's a lot more definition to the bass, and it seems to hit lower. I will have to listen more, but I think it's hitting lower notes than before. I also have had to turn down my basscube on songs where I didn't have to do that before because it gets louder. So I think the combination of the better sub and the poly fill really makes a big difference. So far I really like the sub. I don't think you will be disappointed :)

Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 7:56 am
by oldskoolmseriesfan
the width of 3 fingers in each direction. quoted ttocs

Is this how you like your women too????? :P