Phoenix Gold Phorum

ok...

First - The Camaro is in the garage and I am trying to decide whether I work on the system now, save a little more cash and do it later or save even more and buy a set of wheels and just wait on the system.

So, there is the first set of questions.

Second - If I do the system now, I am looking at OEM integration now and adding an aftermarket head unit later...

Here is the wiring diagram for OEM integration:


the question comes in - knowing that eventually I will put in a new aftermarket head unit - do I bother putting in the system now with a LOC or the MX2 that I have (and somehow figure out how to turn on the amps) or do I just continue to sit on everything and wait?

as for gear:
Roadster66
PPI 356cs splits
RSDc 10's
(MX2 if I decide to use it instead of a LOC)

lay it on me.

To answer your first question, I would throw the stereo in instead of the rims. A brand new Camaro is eye candy already, no real need to add to it, yet I would make it sound better inside, then worry about upgrading the already good looking outside. IMHO of course

And for number 2, if you got the gear already, I would just throw it in! If you don't have to buy anything to be able to do the OEM integration, just do it now. Then take out that gear once you get an aftermarket HU. No use just sitting on gear, especially if you already plan to use it! I mean all you are going to do is make it sound better with every piece you add, so just add stuff as you get it.

That's what I have been doing, and it's cool! You can really tell the improvements you make when you add things to it after listening to it without said new piece. It's kinda neat That's what I would do

pass on the rims now. as for turning on the amps look for a spot in the fuse box that is switched and is hot when the key is turned.

You could always put in a switch. I know, I know, it is manual but some of us like them. Kind of like a race car with all the switches and levers to operate everything. In my car I did it because I needed to be able to remove my sub box for extra storage when I needed it. Easy way to turn off the amp and crossover. My switch runs my MX2 and Punch 150 together and I have no turn on noise or anything with it. Seamless. Plus if I am just listening to talk radio I can kill the sub.

I did a small sub install in my room mates car and he did not want a switch and it drives me crazy knowing that when the key is on so is the amp and crossover. It bothers me because he often drives without the radio on and that hardware is just sitting there idling.

PS. Stereo not Daytons, at least for now.

just for reference - here are the wheels:

get those wheels and you will spend the money enjoying the look when you walk to the car, and sweating when you make sharp corners around curbs while getting use to the new car.

Get a stereo and you get to enjoy it everytime you drive the car.

They are sweet wheels but do you spend more time walk to or just stairing at your car or do you spend more time driving it?

ttocs wrote:get those wheels and you will spend the money enjoying the look when you walk to the car, and sweating when you make sharp corners around curbs while getting use to the new car.

Get a stereo and you get to enjoy it everytime you drive the car.

They are sweet wheels but do you spend more time walk to or just stairing at your car or do you spend more time driving it?

Thats exactly the same thought I was having last night...

Whats sad is I spend about the same amount of time doing either! I work 6 miles from home - about 10 minutes. I park the car outside my office window and stare at it all day.

mostly I was hoping to get the wheels to show off (yes, I said it) some at Rod Run this year.

I have had the car for a couple of months and it only has 1090 miles on it... and thats rounded UP.

there is really only a couple of reasons we trade wheels and it generally isn't for performance. I love my wheels on my stang and get alot of compliments from them, but my stereo makes me grind evertime I am in it.

On the other hand you could put those wheels on and be perfectly happy with them for years, where as with the stereo we all know we will upgrade them later...

Idunno man do what makes you happy and we will give you shit if you get the wheels

ttocs wrote:... and we will give you shit if you get the wheels

If I can find a switched Aux on the fuse panel, I might just see if I can build an enclosure instead of buying one of the custom-fit ones ($150.00) and get the subs/amp/MX2 mounted/wired. I am a little worried about on/off pop from going that route though.

I have plenty of wood to do it... and since I will be mounting the amp to the sub box - and making sure I use drywall screws to do it - I will double-up the rear panel to reduce vibrations into the amp.

which reminds me, I need to get a circle jig, the piece of wood I am using now sucks.

Also, if I steal signal from the rear speakers, since they would be the easiest to steal from (something I have never done) am I going to lose a bunch of sound? I dont know how much sound is front/rear faded versus left/right balanced - I am sure someone can educate me on this point.

I also would probably fire the subs into the cab instead of into the trunk. that will keep them slightly more protected and will allow me to show-off the Roadster in the trunk under a trim-panel.

I always recomended hitting your signal for any kind of loc from the front right behind the radio. Hitting the signal at the back by the speaker is the dirtiest plae to get the signal from, like getting your water at the end of the mississippi when it has collected all it mud/dirt/noise in the signal.

This way you do not send a dirty signal to be amplified and when you swap out decks you can just plug it in.

ttocs wrote:I always recomended hitting your signal for any kind of loc from the front right behind the radio. Hitting the signal at the back by the speaker is the dirtiest plae to get the signal from, like getting your water at the end of the mississippi when it has collected all it mud/dirt/noise in the signal.

This way you do not send a dirty signal to be amplified and when you swap out decks you can just plug it in.

Dood... I am trying to be lazy here... your not helping.

NewOldStock wrote:

ttocs wrote:I always recomended hitting your signal for any kind of loc from the front right behind the radio. Hitting the signal at the back by the speaker is the dirtiest plae to get the signal from, like getting your water at the end of the mississippi when it has collected all it mud/dirt/noise in the signal.

This way you do not send a dirty signal to be amplified and when you swap out decks you can just plug it in.

Dood... I am trying to be lazy here... your not helping.

but he is right. factory wires or rca cables to carry the signal the trunk.

no you are saving time. by doing it now you will get the cable cheaper then it would be next year when you upgrade decks and would have to run the cables then. There would also be an opportunity cost of your labor in a year from now as I hope your hourly rate you are worth does not go down. It saved time in the end as far as I am concerned as you run less of a chance of getting noise and starting that whole atlernator noise troubleshooting we all love to do.

Jim(back before he became james) said it best, do it right do it once.

my brother just shit himself and I cant focus......air....cant.................breath it smells like dead puppies!!!

i swapped stereos many times. do it right the first time and always plan for the upgrades so if ur going to run cables get cables that are good and full length if ur going to get speakers get ur dream speakers even if it means getting 1 set at a time. because there really isnt a point of buying and selling and buying and ect... dont get me wrong i love all the gear i have bought. but it was a couple thousand dollars down the road that i learned how much money i would of saved if i didnt buy all the middle stuff