Phoenix Gold Phorum

Everthing has been ordered and its on the way....two rsdc124 and a planet audio tq1601d with a sony gt740ui head unit. What I need now is box plans if anyone has some...I want to focus more on bump but not completely sacrifice my sql. I'm guessing I'd go ported then? If anyone has some box plans for two rsdc12's I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks for all the help choosing my system guys!

I apologize, I dont need an actual box plans...just the recommended cubic feet for a sealed or ported enclosure (for the rsdc's) and what size the vent should be on a ported. Ported sounds best for lows correct?

Try here...

http://download.phoenixphorum.com/Manua ... manual.pdf

Ok I'm just curious...it says .79 for spl vented enclosure with a 9.3 long vent at 3 inches wide. So if I had two I know I'd double the total cubic feet to about 2.0 .cu but how big would I make the vent?

basically you could keep the vent the same size and use 2 vents or you could make the vent twice as large (6" wide).

9.3 inches long, by 3 inches wide, x 2.

Ok thanks...I'll make the vent 6" wide and just do one vent in the middle of the box. Now how should the insides look? I made a crude drawing of 3 different ideas (all 3 are the same box build, just different internals) do you know which way would work better or does it even really matter? I've heard you need to have walls inside the box then i've heard other people say you don't...If ya'll don't mind take a look at my drawing and let me know which way would be the best.

Thanks for all the help guys! Soon as I figure out a box build I'll have it installed monday and uploading some pics here


Left column is the different top views, right is the front view. Whichever one I choose will look all the same from the outside. Yes, those ice cream cone looking things are supposed to be subwoofers. Be amazed at my paint skills.


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ports essentially work based on their internal volume (like the box itself).
as long as your port is 6" wide by 9.3" long, you should be ok but you don't mention the height of the port. If you are using a slot port, keep the height the same dimension. So, depending on the geometry of your enclosure one of the top 2 drawings is what your design should look like.

Ohhh ok i think i understand now...when I was told to make it 6 inches by 9.3 I was thinking the 9.3 was the height of the port. So when you say make it 9.3 inches you mean how far the port goes into the box correct? And the just make it 9.3 inches tall as well?



I was planning on making the box 14" tall 34" long and 10" deep which makes my box 2.75 cubic feet. Do I make my port 14 inches tall and still do 6 inches wide by 9.3 deep, or should I make it a little skinnier since its gonna be taller than 9.3"?

actually 9.3" is could be the hieght, but if this is the case we still need the length of the port. If someone gave you only 2 dimensions for a port, they are likely talking about a 6" round port that is 9.3" long.

Ok sounds good....so how would i go about converting those measurements to determine a slot port? Sorry about all the noob questions...

Bumpizzle

there are some good online calculators for this. i take it you are not at all interested in using round ports?

Truthfully its not that I'm not interested I just don't know how to go about making a round port. I figured it would be easier to build a slot port....I'm fairly new to this

round port = pvc pipe
if you are not that interested neither are we.

tell ya what. build a 2 cu ft box and put 2 pvc 6" ports in it that are 9.3" long, take some pics, ask whatever questions you need to ask and i think you will be pleasantly surprised. i built my first enclosure, a 6cu fot sealed enclosure for two rf punch 15s when i was 14 years old and installed them in my mothers ride. did all of it with a jigsaw and a sheet of 3/4" decking grade plywood. i asked lots of questions at the local stereo shop and my dad taught me the mathematical formulas and conversions i needed for simple sealed enclosures. you can do this if you want to. if ya really aren't that interested in trying something new or learning as much as you can, then i will have to second ttocs.

good luck. take some pics and let us know how it goes.

ttocs wrote:round port = pvc pipe
if you are not that interested neither are we.

Gah guys you read my post wrong...I AM interested I just didn't know how to build a round port. I used a double negative, read it again and you'll see... . Believe me I am interested in learning as much as I can, otherwise I would've just slapped together a rinky-dink box and called it a day. This is my second system install (last one was about 5 years ago) so I just wanted to make sure I had all my measurements right.


Just out of curiousity, you said two 6"x9.3" ports. Wouldn't I just need one?

^gotcha

no worries. please feel free to ask questions.
also feel free to share your progress.

It's all good, believe me I appreciate the help and knowledge you guys bring to the table.


I think i'm going to go with the round port then. Does it matter where I place it? Like facing the front with the subs or on the side etc.

The rest of my equipment is coming in thursday...I'm psyched, just bummed I've got to wait that long, lol.

I have heard different theories on port placement, and seen almost every type possible actually used and never really noticed a difference.

I prefer a good sealed box and like to add my gain according to where I want to via a basscube. This makes it easier to tune it to the vehicle and even individual songs, as well as gives the option to take it away when I want to or move it accordingly. Twisting two little knobs seems much easier then all the extra calculations, work/space for installation, ect. put that in yer smipe and poke it.......

.79cu with a 3" round port 9.3" long puts the tuning at 46hz!!
Please dont do that! It will be loud, but sound like shit. The RSDc's are very capable subs, and can play plenty loud even in a box designed for SQ.

2cuft with the 6" round & 9.3" long puts the tuning at almost 53hz, which is even worse.
That does not take into consideration the woofer displacement, and dont forget the space taken up by the port does NOT count toward the 2cuft volume. If the port itself displaces .5cuft (just an example) the box would need to be 2.5cuft inside just to get the 53hz, because if you just put that port into a 2cuft box the tuning would actually go up to 61hz which is horrible for a 12" (or any sub for that matter).

You also cannot just double the port size, its not a matter of volume it is a matter of airspeed within that volume.
A 2cuft box with 2 3" round ports 9.3" long will have a tuning freq of 41hz, 10hz LOWER than the box with a single 6"x9.3". That is a huge difference.
To run a 6" round port it needs to be 18.28" long just to reach the same tuning freq of 41hz.

There is a LOT of math involved in correctly designing a ported enclosure. You have to calculate internal volume, sub displacement, bracing displacement, calculate the port size for woofers & desired tuning freq, displacement of the port itself, & adjust the enclosure size to accommodate. If it is your very first I'd recommend you put a sealed box together first. Use that for a while & get a good feel on how the subs sound.
Ported boxes can be trial & error first starting out, and having a clear base to reference (the sealed boxes performance) will help you greatly in determining what you want out of the setup.

I can also design a box for ya, with detailed blueprints for a nominal fee.
Take all the guess work out of it, and puts it all into the hands of your wood working abilities.

ttocs wrote:I have heard different theories on port placement, and seen almost every type possible actually used and never really noticed a difference.

I prefer a good sealed box and like to add my gain according to where I want to via a basscube. This makes it easier to tune it to the vehicle and even individual songs, as well as gives the option to take it away when I want to or move it accordingly. Twisting two little knobs seems much easier then all the extra calculations, work/space for installation, ect. put that in yer smipe and poke it.......

Port placement results will vary based on vehicle, there are many variables.
Port(s) & sub(s) on the same face generally offers the greatest consistency between vehicles & setups.

& I prefer a good low tuned ported box, so my sub can really hit the low tones & get a good solid boost along the entire freq range it plays.

So you cant go wrong either way OP

My woodworking skills are pretty good (I used to design and build cabinets) so attention to detail is my forte.

Quick question, that tuning would sound bad why would PG have that port size for their recommendation?

Edit¦ just saw the post about low tuning. If you don't mind me asking audiophyle, what would be a well tuned hertz for the size box I'm building, and what size should the port be to obtain that? If youd rather not tell me directly you can point me to some calculators and ill try to figure it out.

Either way thanks for all the information guys. I start building my box tomorrow so I'm pumped!

The tuning freq is the note that the box/sub will play the absolute loudest, which 45hz is about right in the middle of a normal sub range.
Problem is the box wont play shit underneath the tuning freq, so you will have stupid loud bass down to 45hz, and almost no lower end bass.
Its listed for SPL for a reason, max output as the goal not SQ.

Tuning lower increases the output down to where you tune (I prefer 28~30hz) giving you a large spread of increased bass opposed to a huge peak in the middle. Which is good for all genres of music. Everything uses low freq notes, not just rap. Rap just uses nothing but low bass, lol

mmmmmmmmmm sealed always sounds good.

Now again you can always adjust the output of the box/speaker afterwards though the signal as long as you have a good box to go with from the start.