Phoenix Gold Phorum

How do I hook up the Kinetik HC 600? Would I hook it up just like a capacitor?

hook it up like a battery LOL

seriously put it as close to the amp as u can. like a cap

I would assume there would be some kind of charging process for it but I would read the manf instructions to find out.

they do say to check the charge state initially, but they first lot of kinetiks I bought in to the country sat round for 6 months before arriving, I tried the 600 out in my corvette and it fired it up no drama's without having to charge it, they hold a good charge for ages!!

gfunk_nz wrote:they do say to check the charge state initially, but they first lot of kinetiks I bought in to the country sat round for 6 months before arriving, I tried the 600 out in my corvette and it fired it up no drama's without having to charge it, they hold a good charge for ages!!

Ohh nice! That's what I am gonna buy then. Fuck a cap!

I thought it was just a big cap?

ttocs wrote:I thought it was just a big cap?

Well it can start an engine. Wouldn't that be considered as a battery?

I just glanced at it and saw the 100 farad on the bottom, I had to zoom in to see it is advertising it has more power then a 100 farad cap.

Are you putting this inplace of your stock battery, or in addition to your stock battery? What is your alt like?

ttocs wrote:I just glanced at it and saw the 100 farad on the bottom, I had to zoom in to see it is advertising it has more power then a 100 farad cap.

Are you putting this inplace of your stock battery, or in addition to your stock battery? What is your alt like?

Well I am using it as a power source for my amp, so in addition to my stock battery. my alternator is stock as well.

It's definately not a cap, I had another one in my Golf just near the amps, it worked really well when I had it cranked, it did a good job of keeping my voltage up. Also because of the really low internal resistance they are actually very easy on the alternator

did you have to replace it or your other battery either before or after?

ttocs wrote:did you have to replace it or your other battery either before or after?

I dont have the hc 600 yet. I was planning on buying it soon though. My lights dim like crazy with this 600 rms and I heard capacitors are pretty much hit or miss so I thought I would see how to install an extra battery(hc600) on here. I'm not too sure on what to do exactly. I dont know if I should just hook it up as is or if I should make a shut off switch from the main battery to the hc600?

I personally would use a relay isolator.

gridracer wrote:I personally would use a relay isolator.

I have seen those, what do they do exactly? Do they prevent feedback from the extra battery to the main?

Have you done the big three already?

What amp Alt is in your ride now?
If you have bad connections and a small Alt. adding a battery isn't really going to help that much.

I have 4 kinetiks, and there is no reason to run an isolator- for old school batteries or marine deep cycles, you maybe, but have had 0 issues

davewaibel wrote:I have 4 kinetiks, and there is no reason to run an isolator- for old school batteries or marine deep cycles, you maybe, but have had 0 issues

It's a good idea if you have mixed batteries though. If they are all the same, and installed in the same location, you can usually get away without one. Often with mismatched batteries, one will operate at a lower voltage and draw charge from the other batteries.

i am running the kinetik 1800 and 800 with no isolator and i have had no problems, and my alternator is 120 amps. I love the kinetiks

davewaibel wrote:I have 4 kinetiks, and there is no reason to run an isolator- for old school batteries or marine deep cycles, you maybe, but have had 0 issues

Dave knows his shit and have seen his set up and everything runs fine . I have an Optima Red Top for the starting battery and a KH800 in the rear running my TI1200.1 and ZX475 on the stock GM 140amp alternator and have never had a problem, even with the lights on, fogs, a/c on high, radio blaring and the alt / batteries never dropped below 13.8v . I still have to do the big 3 (next week, 1/0 Silver PG wire from Money-B) which should help quite a bit, but haven't had any issues on my end.

One big reason I would use a relay isolator is with one installed you will always have power to start your car if the rear battery dies playing your stereo the car will still start off the battery up front. If you never plan to play your stuff with the car not running then don't use one.

gridracer wrote:One big reason I would use a relay isolator is with one installed you will always have power to start your car if the rear battery dies playing your stereo the car will still start off the battery up front. If you never plan to play your stuff with the car not running then don't use one.

Oh yeah, I dont really play my stereo without driving somewhere. Thanks for help man.

ah ya know I do not know what to thing about the multiple battery questions anymore. Just do what you want, that is the fun of the internet...

you can wire the rear battery in series to the one under the hood and be GTG.
I know an installer in ATL that runs 8 ga wire to his personal amps using a rear battery with no problems! He has a multiple amp setup, 3way front and a single 12" that will rock many systems with 3x or 4x as many subs while maintaining excellent sq. might sound hard to believe but believe you me, it sounds really really good. 8 ga !

gridracer wrote:One big reason I would use a relay isolator is with one installed you will always have power to start your car if the rear battery dies playing your stereo the car will still start off the battery up front. If you never plan to play your stuff with the car not running then don't use one.

I listen to my system at regular type volumes for for my three breaks(1hr total) at work and have never ever had any problem or worry that my car would not start. it always does and i'm running alot of power. Isolators are old school and totally unnecessary. Now if you are playing your system at loud volumes for hours on end without your car running then ya ok but who parks and listens like that except if your in high school
Extra batterys are wired in parallel to provide reserve amperage and reduce voltage fluctuation.
To the OP here's a good write up from someone who knows
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-e ... l-why.html
most people run an extra battery or more to have the power on tap(like me) for massive bass hits. Even still my voltage has not dropped below 13.6v on a big hit, (it always sits at 14.2v) with my car at idle(800 RPM) with massive bass hits. So i guess i don't need them cause my Alt is able to keep up no problem. I like overkill

Stryker wrote:

gridracer wrote:One big reason I would use a relay isolator is with one installed you will always have power to start your car if the rear battery dies playing your stereo the car will still start off the battery up front. If you never plan to play your stuff with the car not running then don't use one.

I listen to my system at regular type volumes for for my three breaks(1hr total) at work and have never ever had any problem or worry that my car would not start. it always does and i'm running alot of power. Isolators are old school and totally unnecessary. Now if you are playing your system at loud volumes for hours on end without your car running then ya ok but who parks and listens like that except if your in high school
Extra batterys are wired in parallel to provide reserve amperage and reduce voltage fluctuation.

corey your car makes me sick. my wife was mad the last time you burped you set up with the new subs. this guy know what he is talking about and his gear is pg(amps) not ms or le and it kick f---- ass