Phoenix Gold Phorum

http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Produ ... ct=2701281

Just put that inline from the battery like an ANL?

That would work fine. Id get rid of the included 5amp fuse though and go with a 15 or 20 amp

you can go to best busy and buy a cheap fuse and just make your own inline one...then heat shrink it or tape it up. I did it for the power supply of my DRZ

I prefer blade fuses, since the glass fuse is becoming obsolete, getting harder to find.

Plus with teh blad fuse holder when the fuse is removed the connectors are no exposed like many glass fuse holders are or can be. reducing possibility of an accidental short.

^ - i agree.


the one you listed earlyer is ok, but a little chincy. see if you can find one like this -> http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=070-675

I think it has a internal fuse inside that unit I know my 22 has a little itty bitty green bodied fuse that looks like a solid green resistor near the power plug inside the unit.
I also think its rated like 3/4 ampere < but I need to check that number> PG never built anything that did not have safe guards inside it. EQ's Crossovers, line drivers etc...

1moreamp wrote:I think it has a internal fuse inside that unit I know my 22 has a little itty bitty green bodied fuse that looks like a solid green resistor near the power plug inside the unit.
I also think its rated like 3/4 ampere < but I need to check that number> PG never built anything that did not have safe guards inside it. EQ's Crossovers, line drivers etc...

lol, we already had a debate about that. the fuse you are thinking of is to protect it from putting the B+ into the B-

Bfowler wrote:

1moreamp wrote:I think it has a internal fuse inside that unit I know my 22 has a little itty bitty green bodied fuse that looks like a solid green resistor near the power plug inside the unit.
I also think its rated like 3/4 ampere < but I need to check that number> PG never built anything that did not have safe guards inside it. EQ's Crossovers, line drivers etc...

lol, we already had a debate about that. the fuse you are thinking of is to protect it from putting the B+ into the B-

OK, then someone please explain how that does not also protect from general over current also.
You see I understand that you see the fuse in circuit in what appears to be across the + and- terminals but then it would be a short in itself so it must be in circuit just like a fuse and provide in circuit protection just as if you added one outside.
You can't put a fuse across the power wires unless there is a diode in circuit to prevent a short unless polarity is reversed, but it would then blow and protect nothing, and the circuit would blow out as if there were no protection at al <cause there was none with that setup.

Trust me its in circuit as a fuse and provides RP protection as a secondary consideration. PG never did overlook much


PS I had to replace the fuse in my 22 so I have been inside and up close on these, as my buddy zapped my using it as a test driver in a car <i keep it on my test bench to increase drive levels without much hassle to setup. C

i understood 9 words in that first sentence.

.75amp fuse still doesnt seem right to me.....

Ok, thanks guys

so I found the other type of fuse you showed me, now how many amps to use?

Also, how the fuck do you set the gain on the TLDs? I opened it up and theres two knobs for each 2 channels.

Do i have to turn both of them?

And when i set them can i have the music playing while im adjusting? or do i need to turn it off adjust and then test.