Phoenix Gold Phorum

Im thinking about buying 100ft of fatmat megamat for my car. I dont see many reviews for it online. I checked out the regular fatmat ...I think it was the regular fatmat? that stipud put in his saab and that stuff was sticky as hell

But since i live in california and spend alot of time out in palm springs in the desert i dont want a asphalt based product in my car.

The butyl based matts i have checked out are

second skin damplifier pro for $300 for 80ft which is 80 mil thick with 6.5 mil aluminum backing

dynamat xtreme for $272 for 72 ft which is 67 mil thick with 4 mil aluminum backing

fatmat mega mat for $240 for 100ft which is 70 mil thick with ? mil aluminum backing

It seems to me the fatmat is the best value by a long shot unless im missing something?

I plan on putting a layer of closed cell foam and a layer of mass loaded vinl on top of the deadener as well

Has anyone here used the fatmat mega mat?

I used it ....worked great....Nice stuff there for the price...

Let me tell you....this SHIT sticks

i used fatmat mega and loved it. key is to clean really well before u start applying it

The heat might be the only problem......
If the car spends lots of time at well above 95* you might get some asphalt smell........

I used it in my car and Tom used it in his...... Great results. But we only see 95-100* but maybe 2 or 3 times a year.

You might also look into the Second Skin spray-on deadner........

I had no problems with my second skin after 2 phoenix summers and you are right you have no idea how hot it can get. Driving with oven mits is needed if you park anywhere in the sun in the summer. I have seen people that have had their garage door openers melt because they had a dark car in the sun and it was next to the roof on the visor.

ttocs wrote:I had no problems with my second skin after 2 phoenix summers and you are right you have no idea how hot it can get. Driving with oven mits is needed if you park anywhere in the sun in the summer. I have seen people that have had their garage door openers melt because they had a dark car in the sun and it was next to the roof on the visor.

lol@ oven mitts

either that or you have the ferris bueler methode of licking your palms but with the dry heat it cooks the liquid right off in just a few minutes.

Ttocs u did the liquid deadner?

would that work on your hands? never thought about it


no I used damplifier pro and some of the luxery liner.

I used the Fatmat in my car, on the inside it works great still sticking for the most part. Not so good on the trunk lid as it has started to peel off around the edges. the smell was not a problem as it faded away quite quickly. It's a good deal at the price. I would probably spend a few more bucks and try something else if i ever do it again, which i highly doubt. I did the bare metal quite well. Not too sure if this regular Fatmat is comparable to the one your looking at.

I noticed it was all in the prep. If there was even a bit of dust on the surface you could pull it off. I cleaned every surface TWICE and let it dry before applying, and it was impossible to peel off after that (pulling on it rips the mat itself, not the adhesive side!

I know I was suprised when I talked to ant at second skin he said that you didn't need to go crazy cleaning the surface, actually don't really need to do much more then get the big stuff out. He said they tested it spraying a sheet of metal with wd40, and then while it was wet applied the second skin and it was still no problem. He said the rubber would absorbe the oil no problem and it would still stick.

Ant just sold the biz, if you want an experts opinion that is no longer associated with the industry I could ask if he could swing through and lend us his expertise. He is a nice enough guy that I would be suprised if he said no.........

For $1.35 less a square foot i dont mind doing a little cleaning

Sounds like most of you used the asphalt based fatmat.

Curently they offer
(asphalt base) fatmat, I think this is what stipud and rold gold are using?

(asphalt butyl mix) rattle trap, not sure if anyone here is using it?

(butyl base) megamat, which is what dontlookatme has in his truck. Im going to try and check it out in the next few days, he says its been in there for a few years and is holding up well (in the la heat)

The only thing that worries me at the moment about the megamat is i dont know how thick the aluminum is, and from the little bit of research ive done the thicker the better because it sandwiches the butyl and makes the butyl disapate vibration better

The second skin damp. pro seems like a better product than the dynamat xtreme and the fatmat megamat, im just not convinced that its worth paying a third more for it

I know skin is better then extreme. If you were to hold pieces of each in your hand the differences would be immediatly appearant.... I have not done a similar A-B test with fatmat and skin but I am willing to bet that again the differences would be able to be noticed.

I was impressed by the foil in damplifier just because it is the first mat I have used where no matter what corner I worked it into that the foil didn't rip or tear. If you get this stuff you will not wonder later if you had been better off with the better stuff and this is one of the times where you get what you pay for IMO.

Don't forget that the little bit of the odor that you are willing to live with from the asphalt based is a carcinogin and there are msds papers to go with it. Now also remember that you will be putting this inside an enclosed area that you and your kids will be breathing in as well. Sure it will eventually disappate, as far as you know anyway ...........

The megamat is not a asphalt product, its butyl

If you are going to buy the expensive butyl deadeners, buy less of it, and put it only on key surfaces (ones that will rattle). Concentrate on sound blockers like closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl, which will do a lot more for you in blocking road noise and improving SQ. The combined foam/vinyl sold by Fatmat was pretty tough to use, especially on the doors. For the floor or big open flat surfaces, it is great stuff though. I would probably recommend using separated layers instead for any harder surfaces.

stipud wrote:I noticed it was all in the prep. If there was even a bit of dust on the surface you could pull it off. I cleaned every surface TWICE and let it dry before applying, and it was impossible to peel off after that (pulling on it rips the mat itself, not the adhesive side!

I didnt clean at all....was like gorrilla stick glue.....I have had the panels off just the other day also...shit is still stuck like a magnet on there

for doors I like to put a complete sheet across it to cover all the holes. With these covered you help to isolate the front/back and keep out the road noise, and of course with that much there should be no rattles. Use a couple small pieces on the outside door skin while you are in there.

I havent got a response from fatmat on there foil thickness, and ive been selling a bunch of crap on ebay.

Im really tempted to pull the trigger on 80ft of ss damplifier pro ...$326 with shipping is alot though

For some reason the fatmat just makes me feel nervous

...off to measure my car

Like I said I have worked with just about every brand over the years from the original dynamat to this. If you had a piece of dynamat extreme and a piece of damplifier pro, you would not question the price at all. When I had both in my hand I was amazed at the difference as it is immediatly noticable....

I could actually use some of the MLV, maybe there are a few others and we could get some kind of group order together. I have the time to try and organize it if there is enough interest.

I dont know how shipping would work on a group buy, 1pound a square foot adds up fast.

i would be interested if it proves feasible...

well we would need the interest before I would check it out. Anyone interested?

If you are talking just the mass loaded vinyl without any foam backing im thinking of buying from here http://www.yahoosoundproofing.com/malovi.html

And if i was going to get it with the foam i was thinking this http://www.yahoosoundproofing.com/compositevinyl.html


As far as i can tell, 1pound per square foot mlv is all the same? If not, what would the diff be?

If we get a group buy going on something that ends up being cheaper than that im deff interested. Im going to end up needing at least 100ft

You know guys I have seen so many different vehicles come through and different guys bragging about how their brand X of deadener is better than someone elses brand X and really all I can say is its all marketing and what the customer wants to believe. You can take a 1" square piece of stick on magnet sheet from staples and stick it to the side of a bell and it will deaden the bell just as much as any car audio deadener does.
Anything you stick on metal will deaden it it's not rocket surgery it's just adding mass.
You can buy DEI boom mat spray on deadener for about $6 a can or cascade spray on deadener for $15 a can and they will both acheive what the equivalent amount of mat will do at a way cheaper price. Obviously doing a door though your not gonna get the holes all covered like a mat will.
I went to a car audio shop years ago on a vacation when the cascade stuff just came out I was probably 16 just starting my install career and saw their little display of it and bought a can just to take back to our shop and check it out. Anyway their display was 2 pepsi cans one covered one left untouched and of course the one covered in it was dead and made a thud and the other one of course still had the tinny sound if you flicked it with your finger, again you can acheive the same thing if you tape a piece of rubber on the side of a can, So for your floor I would find whatever rubber mat you can find thats cheap and flexable (hallway runner mats) and spray glue it on once the carpets on it can't move anyway and it will do just fine to deaden a floor. Double it up if you have to still cheaper.
trimtex 847 is the best spray glue I have ever seen besides buying a 5 gallon pail of glue and using a gun to spray it. I am the only installer I know of that uses trimtex 847 and the only reason I found it is because my dad is a drywaller (so I stole a can from his shop) and it is used for sticking vinyl moldings onto drywall,and at $12 a can it's not crazy priced.
For a ceiling I would probably spray it with boom mat or use a good deadener that will stick very well. For everything else use whatever you can get cheaper. Back in the day before butyl got popular I hated putting asphalt crap in peoples cars they would stink like they were working on paving a highway and left their boots in the back,didn't mind selling it to them though used to be a pretty good markup on it then,probably still is.
All I can say is I would never use an asphalt based mat in anything I drive the smell doesn't "go away" your body just gets used to it and you don't notice it after a while. For me its cheap cheap cheap and if I have to buy it well then it will be butyl,and even then I would still go to home depot and buy 200 sq.feet of blueskin basment wrap for $150 its 60 mils and butyl and about as cheap as you can find a mat for and its blue no foil.