need help with wiring two capacitors

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 7:19 pm

I wired this system with monster 4 gauge to the 2 farad capacitor then I used db link 4 gauge to the amps. The stereo does start clipping when I turn it up really loud and my headlights are dimming so I decided to buy a 10 farad capacitor with 0/1 gauge wire to keep up. My question is should I run two capacitors 1 for each amp? how would you wire that up?. Or should I run a distribution block in front of the 10 farad capacitor to both amps? I read this statement and was wondering what you thought? You can run caps in a series if you have powerful amps requiring more than 1 cap.

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 7:20 pm

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 7:36 pm

str3atwarrior · Post by **str3atwarrior** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 7:57 pm

Welcome to the Phorum!

From where in Canada are you?

You can simply wire all your capacitors in serie. Ideally you could go like this : Battery - fuse - capacitors - distribution block - amps.

You should use 1/0 cable from battery to the back with such an install. Also upgrading your big 3 will surely help to avoid voltage drop. What car is this installed into? You might wanna consider installing an high output alternator to provide enough power to your system.

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 8:13 pm

With a ten farad capacitor do you think there is a need for the 2 farad? The big three is something I should look at. This is in a 2006 GMC SIERRA 1500 4X4 5.3 3.73

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 8:15 pm

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 8:18 pm

I AM ALSO ADDING A THIRD SUB

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 8:47 pm

how is that cap connected? I see the two +12v red wires that comes out and goes to the amps, but where is it connected to teh battery? By one of the black ground wires?

I normally recomend a HO alt and a second battery before a cap.

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 8:59 pm

It's all hidden under the carpet that's where the main positive and negative to the frame come in to the capacitor.

you can't see it but it is there

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 9:13 pm

both amps is just too much for for that cap

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 9:20 pm

I'm thinking of hooking up the 10 farad cap and then distribution block too both amps.

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 11:13 pm

caps are just band aids. You money would be better spent on a HO alt first.

gridracer · Post by **gridracer** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 12:06 am

You will probably yeild better results from upgrading the big 3 than you will with the 10 farad cap and cheaper too. Also for that truck you can buy a stock AD244 200 amp alternator for under $150
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-GMC- ... ccessories

tonym · Post by **tonym** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 7:04 am

ttocs wrote:caps are just band aids. You money would be better spent on a HO alt first.

How are you changing/fooling the computer controlled regulator??

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 9:32 am

I have been reading around in here and have noticed that alot of guys don't like the caps. I put too much faith in the cap myself and thought I could get away with 4 gauge wire through the cap to both amps. I have purchased a ten farad cap with 0/1 gauge wire but before i install it I'm going to do the big three. Is there any good write ups on the big three upgrade?

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 9:36 am

I am about to show pics on my mustang, just about to finish upgrading it to 1/0. I have one more connection to make and then I am going to show it hopefully tonight.

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 9:51 am

Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis.