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So annoyed, amp won't stay on after install.....
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 4:14 pm
by 1Quik7
Ok so I spent the ENTIRE day installing this "system", 1200.1 + Ti12D + 2 farad cap(I know I've heard they don't work, just wanted to try one) and I got it all wired up, the amp won't stay on.
My Cadillac has very limited choices on remote wires, supposedly there are none, but some owners have reported differently.
So the cap is reading good voltage so the juice is on, I turn the key and the amp lights up for a second then shuts off. So I'm wondering, remote wire, bad ground? Any ideas?
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 4:21 pm
by stipud
Which 1200.1 is it? Phoenix Gold has quite a few of them.
Where did you buy it?
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 4:31 pm
by Bfowler
Does the amp stay on with nothing connected to the speaker outs (no load)
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 5:02 pm
by Thumper88
Simple check...jumper wire from batt+ input to remote input on amp....if the amp stays on you know it's the remote wire.
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:57 pm
by 1Quik7
Bfowler wrote:Does the amp stay on with nothing connected to the speaker outs (no load)
I have the amp up and running now, I re-grounded it and it works, however it drains my battery quickly and the sub isn't seeing any power
Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 5:10 am
by tonym
1Quik7 wrote:Bfowler wrote:Does the amp stay on with nothing connected to the speaker outs (no load)
I have the amp up and running now, I re-grounded it and it works, however it drains my battery quickly and the sub isn't seeing any power
drains the battery? how so?
is the car not running? take a mulitimeter and see what your charging at..
Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:59 am
by kg1961
I had a amp years ago that for some reason stayed on even with out a remote wire installed? I also had my 69 beetle with my sony cdxc 90 deck m44 and alpine mrvt1501 amp and when the power got lower the deck would act up I sent it in and found out it was my crappy battery
check your wires,battery and alt to make sure they are all working
Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 8:07 am
by 1Quik7
tonym wrote:1Quik7 wrote:Bfowler wrote:Does the amp stay on with nothing connected to the speaker outs (no load)
I have the amp up and running now, I re-grounded it and it works, however it drains my battery quickly and the sub isn't seeing any power
drains the battery? how so?
is the car not running? take a mulitimeter and see what your charging at..
No, the car wasn't running. This was drunk electronics 101 last night after I got home from a Halloween party. So the amp is up and running and the remote turns on and off with the car so that's good, I need to find out why the sub isn't seeing any power. I've tried 2 sets of speaker cables.
I had a local shop build a custom box and install the sub, could it be they wired it wrong? They asked if it was dual voice coil and I said, no it's quad...they looked at me funny, that might not be good.
Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 9:12 am
by 1Quik7
Just pulled the box out and brought it inside, no power on the home theatre system either
Looks like I'm pulling it.
This was a NIB sub from woofersetc.com I'd imagine it'd not be DoA, hopefully it's just a wiring issue.
EDIT: Switched polarity from the home stereo, out came sound, but no LED's. God, this is ridiculous!
Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 9:15 am
by Bfowler
do you have a mulitmeter? you can test the speaker outs on the amp to see if they are even putting out power. if they arent, you can test the rca's and seeing if they have any voltage.
Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 1:55 pm
by gbody805
1Quik7 wrote: They asked if it was dual voice coil and I said, no it's quad...they looked at me funny, that might not be good.
Are you talking about an Ti 12D elite sub?
They are DVC with a third set of terminals for the leds.
Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 2:58 pm
by Stryker
wire it up for a 2ohm load to the amp and wire up the remote to the leds yourself. there is quad coils, but this sub is not that. this is easy. the sub is most likely fine, prolly wired inside the box to 8ohm. Now go get after it.
Posted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 11:32 am
by 1Quik7
Stryker wrote:wire it up for a 2ohm load to the amp and wire up the remote to the leds yourself. there is quad coils, but this sub is not that. this is easy. the sub is most likely fine, prolly wired inside the box to 8ohm. Now go get after it.
It's up and running.
Thank you everyone for the advice.
I ran into the problem of needing grounded RCA's for the amp input, never woulda guessed that. I also think I need more powah, the sub is struggling on the low end.
It's loud, but not like I remember my old Xmax setup. I read a review on this sub and the guy says the car and everything else is shaking and moving, but you. It's pretty weird, the air in the cabin doesn't vibrate at all.
Posted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 12:05 pm
by Stryker
1Quik7 wrote:Stryker wrote:wire it up for a 2ohm load to the amp and wire up the remote to the leds yourself. there is quad coils, but this sub is not that. this is easy. the sub is most likely fine, prolly wired inside the box to 8ohm. Now go get after it.
It's up and running.
Thank you everyone for the advice.
I ran into the problem of needing grounded RCA's for the amp input, never woulda guessed that. I also think I need more powah, the sub is struggling on the low end.
It's loud, but not like I remember my old Xmax setup. I read a review on this sub and the guy says the car and everything else is shaking and moving, but you. It's pretty weird, the air in the cabin doesn't vibrate at all.
What kind of box are you running? Size, ported (I hope) or sealed, this kind of setup should yield decent results with the right box. I do think this sub could handle 2k easy and more if you want to burp it. let us know the box volume. Any pic's?
Posted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 12:38 pm
by 1Quik7
Stryker wrote:1Quik7 wrote:Stryker wrote:wire it up for a 2ohm load to the amp and wire up the remote to the leds yourself. there is quad coils, but this sub is not that. this is easy. the sub is most likely fine, prolly wired inside the box to 8ohm. Now go get after it.
It's up and running.
Thank you everyone for the advice.
I ran into the problem of needing grounded RCA's for the amp input, never woulda guessed that. I also think I need more powah, the sub is struggling on the low end.
It's loud, but not like I remember my old Xmax setup. I read a review on this sub and the guy says the car and everything else is shaking and moving, but you. It's pretty weird, the air in the cabin doesn't vibrate at all.
What kind of box are you running? Size, ported (I hope) or sealed, this kind of setup should yield decent results with the right box. I do think this sub could handle 2k easy and more if you want to burp it. let us know the box volume. Any pic's?
No pics yet, it's just installed, haven't gone to the task of mounting everything yet. I also haven't played around with all the tuning yet, I turned up a few knobs on the amp and almost wanted to puke with my head in the trunk with the sub on. I also know the line-out converter has some adjustments on it as well.
The box is 1.25 sealed, so it is very small. I don't have a space issue but I just didn't want a huge ported box in my trunk, it's a grocery getter.