What do you guy's use for 1/0 gauge ring connectors

smokeyand thebandit · Sat Oct 30, 2010 12:56 pm

I heard that welding stores sell copper connector's for 1/0 gauge cheap. I want to upgrade big three and have the wire but no connector's. Just wondering what you think about this.

wooferdog · Post by **wooferdog** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 1:00 pm

you can get good connectors at the welding supply store but you need the big crimper that you hammer on to install the big ends on the wire

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 1:13 pm

My worry with these copper connectors is corrosion. I have heard of adding die electric grease between the mating surfaces. Also I will be mounting some of them to aluminum surfaces of the engine block.

Post by **Bfowler** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 3:06 pm

i use these: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetai ... RT1/0516BK

i have a big farm crimper for them, but you can get a cheap hammer crimp

http://www.amazon.com/Z-EZRB790C-Hammer ... 877&sr=8-1

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 3:17 pm

I have a 1/0 pg ring power lug that is meant to attach the power wire to your alt. They are not cheap at $12 each but they do look nice. I have an extra if you want it. This uses a compression fiting so you would not need the extra crimper.

gridracer · Post by **gridracer** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 5:47 pm

I go to the local airport and use their crimpers and lugs when I need 1/0 crimps for other people on my own stuff I use expensive compression style terminals or ones with set screws like the QRT1's I still have about 5 of them new around here somewhere.

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smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 7:35 pm

I tried to order the knuconcept black connectors but they only have one in stock but they do have blue and red

. Do you guys think raptor brand is crap, I seen a twenty pack for 14.99 + 22 bucks shipping on ebay. works out to about the same price

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 7:45 pm

also I was going to crimp them with a pair of pliers then solder the connections.

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 7:54 pm

I use to be a fan of soldering all power connections till earlier this year. My mustang had been having issues intermittenly and I decided to check the power wires. I was horrified to see that the point I soldered had become weak from vibrations, and eventually corroded its way through the entire connection. I am now running nothing but compressoin terminals and plan on doing nothing else until something better comes out.

Thumper88 · Post by **Thumper88** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 7:57 pm

Pliers??

I use one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-701010-Elec ... 388&sr=8-2

Load it up in the vise, does a good job.

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 9:09 pm

I use a bench vise to crimp the large gauge connectors. Has worked like a charm so far.

Yes, they come out semi flat

gridracer · Post by **gridracer** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 9:12 pm

http://cableorganizer.com/klein-tools/s ... iewer.html
These are the kind I use for crimping copper lugs and big stuff they crimp from 6 AWG-4/0AWG no chance they come apart.

smokeyand thebandit · Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:06 am

Thanks for the info... I will try to track down a crimping tool or if not use a vice. So would you still solder the connection or just leave it crimped?I am going to buy some stuff from knuconcepts that comes with compression fittings ( Battery terminals, fused distribution, and ring connectors). Thanks for the link to their site.

HAPPYHALLOWEEN

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Oct 31, 2010 11:03 am

like I said I was a fan of soldering until this year after what I found in my own vehicle. Since then I have gone specifically to compression terminals for my own vehicles. The set screws are not bad but after a while they will start to pull out of the connector as I have been watching it happen on my truck for the last year where I used knuconept terminals there. I have one more pg power lug that uses a compression terminal to attach a 1/0 wire to the alt. I paid $12 for it and can include a good thick piece of clear heatshrink to go over it and protect it.

Thumper88 · Post by **Thumper88** » Sun Oct 31, 2010 4:12 pm

FYI the Konfused Battery Terminals are cheap as hell...in price and quality.

Crimp and solder on all my lugs.

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Oct 31, 2010 4:30 pm

like I said after what I learned this year if you do solder, secure the wire well to prevent it from wiggling and causing the stress cracks that did mine in. I have never seen that before but I also have not had many stereos that I installed and then monitor for a few years like I did mine. I like to build my stuff so I know I will not have to mess with it later and thought I did that time too....

Post by **smgreen20** » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:04 pm

gridracer wrote:

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I use these too. Also not all 1 gauge terminals for welding are crimp, they also use ones as pictured above.

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:12 pm

If konfused sucks what do you recommend for Battery terminals? I can see now this is going to be a little costly. I need a new high amp alternator, battery, and connectors for the big three. what type of battery kinetic or optima? what brand of alternator would you choose. I also will need a fused distro block.

gridracer · Post by **gridracer** » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:14 pm

I am gonna be using stinger batteries. I don`t like the results of the stinger vs. kinetic test

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:27 pm

pg makes, or rather made the best batter/power connections. They can still be found here/there. The terminals I got came in the akit1 and are just super solid and I don't know that I could go with a cheaper terminal now. I think I still have one more compression terminal for the alt connection with heat shrink is $12 if you want it.

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:41 pm

ttocs wrote:pg makes, or rather made the best batter/power connections. They can still be found here/there. The terminals I got came in the akit1 and are just super solid and I don't know that I could go with a cheaper terminal now. I think I still have one more compression terminal for the alt connection with heat shrink is $12 if you want it.

So this terminal doesn't use an Allen key like the one in gridracers pic. I give you twelve bucks and you mail it to me?

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Oct 31, 2010 8:08 pm

I tried to find a link to show how it works but can't. a compression terminal is different then most. You will strip about teh last 1/4" of insulation from the wire. You unscrew the bottom of the terminal(by hand) and then insert the now stripped wire through the ring, and then take stripped wire and pull it outside the ring on top, basically just mess it up. Now when you insert the wire, with the ring on the end of it into the end of the compression terminal and start to tighten it. You will need a wrench when you tighten it completely because as you do, it will force the messed up wires on the end of the ring to compress aginst the rest of the terminal. This is supposed to give a better connection then the set screws both electrically and in how long it will hold. I have the knuconcept terminals on my truck with set screws and they are pulling out from the terminal where these will not have that problem years from now.

You would need to pay for shipping but I am in the midwest(southern indiana) so it should not be too much to put it in a bubble envelope and sent it off. I can include some thick clear heat shrink to protect the connection as well if you want. $12 sounds like alot until you hold it in your hand and then you will understand. This is a solid piece of audio jewelry that will not wear out in a couple of years or fail later until the car fails......

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Sun Oct 31, 2010 8:26 pm

show me a pic I gotta see it

smokeyand thebandit · Post by **smokeyand thebandit** » Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:53 pm

does it have a 1/4" hole?

Post by **ttocs** » Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:57 pm

damn camera is on the fritz. I think the model number is zrt1 or zrt01. The hole is 3/8" and like I said it fit in the stock alternator spot.