Phoenix Gold Phorum

I just got a DD10 that is going to go to use in the stang. While of course it looks cool as heck, I would like to keep it that way and know how bad the Ti series will rust once it starts in one spot. I am considering putting another good clearcoat on it just to ensure that it doesn't start and then get worse. Anyone done this before, any recomendations? I almost think a glossy clear would look better.....

I put dri-packs by my amps to get any moisture that they can pick up...like the ones that come with new hard drives......not sure if its a huge dif...

being in the midwest I would probabyl need to replace them 2 times a week for them to continue to be functional.

I think if you wiped it down really well with something like RM 900 automotive reducer to make sure it is clean of all grease and oils then sprayed it with an adhesion promoter(because you can't scuff it) and then cleared it that it should work out pretty good.I would want to try it on an older already damaged TI piece first to make sure it doesn't yellow or flake or something weird.

that is what I was thinkin. This piece has not been handled much so it would seem that a good cleaning and adhesion promoter and a couple of light coats followed by a heavy coat of clear seems like it would not hurt. I do not have any old Ti gear so I might have to try it on the back or something. Wonder if a clear powder would be better, but I am sure hyde will chime in there.....

I would stick with spraying the clear I am not sure how the silk screening would hold up in the oven if powder coating of course matt might know that also.

I think you're plan sounds spot on.

Obviously in an ideal world you'd scuff it, but since that isn't possible a good adhesion promoter should be adequate. I believe Bulldog is a popular one over there.

Definitely go with a couple of light coats first before your heavy one. We call it the grip and rip technique. If you go too heavy too soon you run the risk of dissolving and flowing the silk screening, but the light initial coats will prevent this happening.

I have learned the lesson about the two light coats the hard way....

Ok good to know it can work then. I think I am going to go with a glossy clear as I think it will look better.

so did the adhesion promoter and everything as we had discussed and it went on fairly well. I think it will look really good after a light wet-sand/polish. How long should I wait to do that? Pics will follow, just put the last coat on a few mins ago... Where Yat paintguy?

at least 24 hours before you wet sand it.

I would love to prop it up in a window to collect some uv rays and bake it but it is too cloudy/rainy to think about it. Not sure if I could bake it lightly in the oven to help or not. I have put them on top of the airvents for the house which will blow warm(not hot) air on them all day.

Man I think they look soo much better glossy. The Ti finish pops now and I think when I put the windows in it will only help it look better. The brushed finish really comes out with the gloss, once it is polished it should really pop.

Yeah, I'd give it 24hrs if you can wait that long

A bit of time in the oven certainly won't harm them though. I bake cars at around 80°C (~176°F) air temp, so a low setting on the oven should be fine. Just don't let the missus catch you!

I am in no rush and would rather wait what ever would be best for all of it. MAybe late tonight or else tomorrow I will polish it up and snap some pics. I don't think I have ever seen anyone else do this but I think after I post some pics I could see others doing it. Besides looking better (IMO) it should help them last a couple more years as well.

I have thought about clearing over my white ZX amps for the same reason, but not done anything about it yet.

I'll wait and see how yours look before deciding...

I am sure with your experience they would come out fine, and the added depth that the clear would give to the white would be interesting for sure.

Three of them are in very good shape, but I've recently bought a fourth that's a bit beat up, so could do with a splash of paint here and there anyway. Might experiment on that one before attacking my good ones.

I'm currently field testing a new clear for DeBeer, which is a development of a House Of Kolors one and the best I've ever used for gloss & clarity, so it should work a treat.

paintguy wrote:Three of them are in very good shape, but I've recently bought a fourth that's a bit beat up, so could do with a splash of paint here and there anyway. Might experiment on that one before attacking my good ones.

I'm currently field testing a new clear for DeBeer, which is a development of a House Of Kolors one and the best I've ever used for gloss & clarity, so it should work a treat.

ive used valspar clear and its awsome they own the house of kolor line it may not be as good as hok klear but it spray's like glass trough my iwata w400. i think the DeBeer is the new water base line up from valspar it's suppose to be voc compliant or something like that.

I am just using duplicolor.....

The Golden One wrote: ive used valspar clear and its awsome they own the house of kolor line it may not be as good as hok klear but it spray's like glass trough my iwata w400. i think the DeBeer is the new water base line up from valspar it's suppose to be voc compliant or something like that.

Yep, that's the sort of thing.

Valspar are the parent company, and have DeBeer, HOK & Octorol under their wing. I use DeBeer water borne at work, with their scratch resistant clear.

Nice to see another Iwata user on here. I have a W400, W400 WBX, and my clear gun is the WS400

Now, where are those pictures?

as for iwata's i have the lph100 the lph400 and the w400 i also have two iwata airbrushes that are fun to work with. one thing ive noticed with the iwatas is if you go a little non compliant with the air pressure you can get it to lay down just about better than anything out there. one thing i wonder about tough is can you thin that water bourn paint out with just plain old water, just curious as ive never worked with it before.

I think we're starting to drag this a bit too far off topic

But technically yes you can, however most manufacturers supply their own thinner/reducer which tends to be very pure water mixed with alcohol to speed up drying times.

not a problem fellas. I like listening to people that know more then me as I am at the point in it that I need to learn almost everything.

But I know how to get it back on topic!



So, 3 light coats of adhesion promotor, 2 light coats of clear, 2 medium wet coats on both sides. Wetsanded with 1500 and 2000 grit with a sanding block, buffed with a scratch/swirl eliminator. The grain of the Ti finish really shines nicely now besides being protected better. I like this 100x better then the flat finish, but if you did like the flat finish I had that after sanding with the 2000 grit as well as had it perfectly flat. So if you like the flat look and stil want to protect it this would work as well. Here I am just showing the DD10 but I also covered both x-overs I am using as well as the R-link.

ttocs wrote: I am at the point in it that I need to learn almost everything.

Not judging by that picture! Very nice indeed

Adding to your comment that some may prefer the original flat finish; there's always the option of using a flat/matt clearcoat instead, but I really like that gloss look.

more pics please! are you going to re-do the ground block also?

Thanks for the compliments. Here are all the pieces I painted and then put back together, not the scratched plexi is buggin me so I might have to buff it. You can see how the grain pops now like I said, as well as if you close on the DD10 you can see some small swirl/scratches in it. They are small but I would love to pic the brains of the experts as how to take care of. Take those out and the small ones in the plexi and they will look better then normal and hopefully good for another 10+yrs.....


As for the ground block, I am thinking about trying to recreat the Ti finish on it(its black now). I think it is just a heavily brushed steel with a silver/aluminum paint on it.