Kinetik power cells

[HifiDon]

I have always read that any two batteries will always try to reach an equilibirum between each other and if one battery is stronger than the other, it will slowly drain the weaker battery. The isolator didn't allow that to happen. It is very easy to install, I would recommend it just for peace of mind.

This is VERY true. This is the case if you use two different kinds of batteries. 99% of the time it will not be a problem, as this will take several weeks without running the car to happen. I would recommend the same TYPE of battery upfront & in the back for best performance. So a smaller stinger upfront & a larger one in the back.

[HifiDon]

Another tip about using Kinetik or Stinger batteries.... Use ALOT of smaller ones instead of ONE large one They tend to respond faster & seems to present a smaller load on the charging system

[Phoenixcolt]

It really comes down to the quality of isolator & the quality of installation. If the isolator works like it should, then it can be a useful tool in your system. One way to insure it is working correctly is add a remote voltage gauge upfront so you can monitor the voltage AFTER the isolator.

Yeah I used to have an RMD hooked up all the time, I will definitely be doing another RMD when I get the Xenons in.

I may revisit the Stingers if you were really blown away, I have heard good things about the Kinetiks as well but never used them, the Stinger SPV I had in the "Phoenixcolt" was very impressive.

[HifiDon]

I've personally used Kinteik, Optima Yellow/red, batcap & stinger... I didn't like the Optimas much, they are better than stock but didn't help much, Kinetik was good but it didn't seem to do what is was rated for..little sluggish.. The stinger was a beast & I still swear by it. Wouldn't use anything else! I guess that's why they have been in business for 20 years

[Phoenixcolt]

I've personally used Kinteik, Optima Yellow/red, batcap & stinger... I didn't like the Optimas much, they are better than stock but didn't help much, Kinetik was good but it didn't seem to do what is was rated for..little sluggish.. The stinger was a beast & I still swear by it. Wouldn't use anything else! I guess that's why they have been in business for 20 years

If I were to plan on 2000 watts max, you think two smaller Stingers and no cap would be right on, or you think a cap is still a good idea?

[HifiDon]

Biggest Stinger battery upfront (Measure & make sure you account for terminal posts...those + hood ) & another in the back.. I wouldn't use a Cap, just the batteries..

[oldschoolfan]

Isolators work well doing what they are supposed to but there is a price. Because they use diodes to limit the direction of power flow they do eat up a little bit of voltage. That is why they are formed into heat sinks. Yes, they use a bit of that charging energy that you want so badly going to your system. Count on losing 1/4 to 1/2 of a volt from one side to the other.

[gridracer]

I have sold/used BOTH Kinetik & Stinger batteries for years.

I was sold on Kinetik for years & rarely had any faliures... Performance was good but not great.
After we picked up the Stinger batteries they blew me away. Performance was 5x better!!

Here is the INDEPENDENT studies for Stinger vs Kinetik:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... _SPV20.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... _SPV44.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... _SPV70.pdf

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... br_k60.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... br_k80.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... r_k140.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... r_k180.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... r_k200.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... r_k240.pdf


Also regarding a Isolator:
These sound like a good idea & they have a purpose. I would NOT recommend them for daily use. Here's why:

Let's say you have a battery up front (starting/car) & one in the back.
Let's say that the battery in the back goes bad, ground disconnects or ground becomes loose.
Your voltage in the back will drop below 9v & your amps could possibly fry due to lack of voltage/amperage.
The problem with a isolator is you won't know something is wrong until it's too late.. Car & upfront electronics will work fine.

Also I've seen isolators go bad & the ground to the isolator disconnect (yes, poor installation) but it ruined the back batteries & ruined one amplifier. He was riding around for weeks (not too smart) but the 4ch amp still would play but the sub amp cuts on/off..

Added: It really comes down to the quality of isolator & the quality of installation. If the isolator works like it should, then it can be a useful tool in your system. One way to insure it is working correctly is add a remote voltage gauge upfront so you can monitor the voltage AFTER the isolator.

Thanks for posting the links.

[Phoenixcolt]

I wanted to revisit this since it feels like I am going to need a new battery soon...some of my morning starts have been a little slower than usual.

I wanted to go with a Stinger SPP1500D, but my car takes a D35 and there is not a lot of room so I don't think I can fit the 1500 in there. I am installing a 160A alternator, but also want to replace my battery with something that is good enough for every day starting and can take a little beating on the stereo front.

I can go with the Stinger SPV35 but the CCA and Cranking Amps are lower than an Optima Yellow. If I can't go Stinger Red, and I want to avoid Optimas and Stinger Yellows, I think I need to go with a different brand .

Would Kinetic be the next best choice after Stinger in your opinions?

[Pillow]

Just for reference: http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/foru ... ideos.html

[Stryker]

If you need a good brand that is decent find a Deka dealer and get a 9A34 which is a nice size and should fit under your hood.
Excellent alternative to the name brands as they cost a ton for a sticker with a name on it.
up to you. Why so against Optima's? I have had no issues with mine at all. plus you can return them to any store if you have an issue for a free replacement. Last week i had my system running for at least 2.5 hours at a normal type volume with no voltage drop at all, while i cleaned it for a show. I was surprised at that as i expected some sag....but nothin at all.

[Pillow]

I would like to see the XS take on the Deka! Hopefully soon.

[Phoenixcolt]

If you need a good brand that is decent find a Deka dealer and get a 9A34 which is a nice size and should fit under your hood.
Excellent alternative to the name brands as they cost a ton for a sticker with a name on it.
up to you. Why so against Optima's? I have had no issues with mine at all. plus you can return them to any store if you have an issue for a free replacement. Last week i had my system running for at least 2.5 hours at a normal type volume with no voltage drop at all, while i cleaned it for a show. I was surprised at that as i expected some sag....but nothin at all.

I am not necessarilly against them, I have just had better luck with the couple Stingers I have owned vs. the couple Optima Yellows I have owned in terms of longevity and reliability.

Which Optima do you use?

A lot of folks say to go with the red if it will be my only battery. The Red CA and CCA ratings are really great compared to the Yellow ratings...but the Red isn't dubbed as a deep cycle battery, but I have read that you can deep cycle it a couple of times without issue. I don't plan to deep cycle whatever battery I end up with regularly, but I do like to have the stereo on sometimes with the car off if I am at a show or hanging around at a meet and I want to make sure the car still starts after that...which didn't really work out for me with my stock battery at a show in March .

[Stryker]

yellow up front ,2 blue in the back. all group 31's

[ttocs]

If you need a good brand that is decent find a Deka dealer and get a 9A34 which is a nice size and should fit under your hood.
Excellent alternative to the name brands as they cost a ton for a sticker with a name on it.
up to you. Why so against Optima's? I have had no issues with mine at all. plus you can return them to any store if you have an issue for a free replacement. Last week i had my system running for at least 2.5 hours at a normal type volume with no voltage drop at all, while i cleaned it for a show. I was surprised at that as i expected some sag....but nothin at all.

I am not necessarilly against them, I have just had better luck with the couple Stingers I have owned vs. the couple Optima Yellows I have owned in terms of longevity and reliability.

Which Optima do you use?

A lot of folks say to go with the red if it will be my only battery. The Red CA and CCA ratings are really great compared to the Yellow ratings...but the Red isn't dubbed as a deep cycle battery, but I have read that you can deep cycle it a couple of times without issue. I don't plan to deep cycle whatever battery I end up with regularly, but I do like to have the stereo on sometimes with the car off if I am at a show or hanging around at a meet and I want to make sure the car still starts after that...which didn't really work out for me with my stock battery at a show in March .

This is why I am adding the 2nd battery and the isolator. The only real advantage to the deep cycle is they do not suffer from being completely drained like standard batts do. While they tend to have a little more power it will not stop you from having a dead car at a show.

[KHPower]

If I May this is my 02.

Ive sold Stingers batts and Now Ive been a Factory auhtorized retailer of Kinetik. Im not going to down any company but certain "tests" that were claimed by Stinger vs Kinetik were not exactly true real world tests. Most of the results from the Stinger batts were at dead short or at abnormal real world using.

When I sold Stinger , I had many problems with batts bulging ,leaking and failing and thats just my experience with them , that being said Iv e had many in vehichles that did just fine and sold many that did not have this problem. Since I changed my lineup in my shop and in my competition vehichles to Kinetik I have not had one cell go bad or be returned under normal use or experienced and installed properly use.

The kinetik 600 is sold to be a cap but is actually a small powercell. Its capable of 100 farads worth of cap but can also be used as a nice little juice grade for a add to any system. I currently use in my daily driver a Kinetik 3800 , (2) 1200s and (3) 600s on my Sundown 4500. 1 single 600 can start my competition van cranking a 500 amp Ohio Generator alternator and to me that a damn good power cell.

Now yellow tops , Very good battery about 3 years ago. They were then bought by interstate and the quality has diminished. They had a run of batteries that hit the market awhile ago that had the positive and the negative posts backwards and in essence Tore up alot of folks systems.

Now I know I may be being Bias to a brand I sell and being a team member but I dont sell any products I dont stand by 100% thats why my line of car audio is very small and thats why I used to sell Phoenix gold and I still Love PG

In closing buying a Kinetik from a reputable dealer who is willing to install your Kinetik for free and recommend only what your car and or alternator can handle is the best place to go. Also Keep a close eye on batteries being bought online and in some stereo shops. Kinetik and myself included have found that folks have counterfeited Kinetiks (basically buying the cases and filling them with cheaper low quality cells that are junk) So buyer please beware. I see enough of these here in Nebraska and I cant imagine how bad it can be elsewhere. Im looking out for PG ethusiasts like myself and to the staff at AAMP I mean no disrespect on your tests just think you could of added a few more batt companies to the tests as well and I find it kinda low to bash another company to sell your batts. The truth should be in the performance and the last time I checked 80% of the 180 db club are using Kinetik

Holla At yo boy

KHPower

[ttocs]

I already have a 200A alt and the isolator as well as most of the wire, just need to nail down some batteries. While the kinetics are the best I am not sure my current financial situation(disabled hoping to get on disability) will allow for that at the moment but If it meant I had to save for another month I would wait.

Is kinetic wanting to sponsor anyone else? I am retiring my car for show use only and going a little crazy on the stereo because of it. I have a decal cutter to where I could make some logos to show in key areas if they wanted....... Just wishing really

[KHPower]

Let me see what I can do. What power cell or cells from Kinetik are you looking for ? PM me AND we can discuss this more

[ttocs]

not sure which one would best its hard to compair them to standard batts.

[KHPower]

Well , Everything over the 1200 is about 1000 cranking amps and keep going up as the numbers do. Here in Nebraksa I sell about 40% of my power cells just for folks for there cars , suvs or trucks..get alot of business from independent firefighters to help run there lights , strobes ect.... The cells of a Kinetik are plates that can charge very fast and discharge very quickly(when getting huge draws of current from car audio amps) Also there alot safer than your regular Battery and you can mount them any which way possible.

[ttocs]

I was thinking about two 1400's just to have a little extra, wonder what two of those would cost shipped out?

[KHPower]

Where are you abouts?

[ttocs]

47630 southern indiana

[Earhead]

I have used Kinetik's for 4 years in my SQ vehicle. The 1st HC1800 died after 3 years because my old caps kept draining it. They sold me another 1800 but this one only lasted 11 months. Also to note that Kinetik would not warranty the 2nd battery. After speaking with them and filling out a RA form, they failed to call me back when they said they would plus would not answer my many emails. I am replacing it with a Stinger 1500.

[KHPower]

Wow thats not like them.sorry to hear that