Phoenix Gold Phorum

Anyone use these? The alternative for those who don't want to use a traditional cap for whatever reason. The owner at the local shop is all about these. I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on one for an install. Cost about the same as a cap.
http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/default.asp

pg 1f caps are on amazon for like $30...

but...i was under the impression they were more like a battery.
imo the best use for a cap is its ability to smooth out ac ripples...so i would find out if kinetics do that well, becasue it seems like normal batterys dont

I have the 800,1800,2000,3800- excellent power solutions-

I figure good sound should start with dedicated pure power. It seems my system deserves it's "own" uninterrupted power source. small footprint....It's worth a try........yep, I'm goin' for it.

These are much more then a common battery, I have 2 of them and I swear by them.

Shinju wrote:These are much more then a common battery, I have 2 of them and I swear by them.

^^^^DITTO , have used these for years and the KHC800 I'm currently using as my 2nd source is equal to 200fd and you can get it on the Bay for like $142.00 shipped from Audio Savings with the metal battery sleeve.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KINETIK-KHC800-POWE ... 5197c5980c

dvnt88 wrote:

Shinju wrote:These are much more then a common battery, I have 2 of them and I swear by them.

^^^^DITTO , have used these for years and the KHC800 I'm currently using as my 2nd source is equal to 200fd and you can get it on the Bay for like $142.00 shipped from Audio Savings with the metal battery sleeve.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KINETIK-KHC800-POWE ... 5197c5980c

So, no need for caps when you're running these things?

no need for caps with out them... But they are great batts....

Bchester6 wrote:

dvnt88 wrote:

Shinju wrote:These are much more then a common battery, I have 2 of them and I swear by them.

^^^^DITTO , have used these for years and the KHC800 I'm currently using as my 2nd source is equal to 200fd and you can get it on the Bay for like $142.00 shipped from Audio Savings with the metal battery sleeve.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KINETIK-KHC800-POWE ... 5197c5980c

So, no need for caps when you're running these things?

Nope - I'm running a KHC800 to a Power Core 15 (just for looks and had to have it in my TI install) to a TIBB12 to my TI 500.4 and TI 1000.2 and have never had a problem with the lights dimming and such, but make sure to do the big 3. AND I'm still using the factory 140amp alt under the hood.

I plan to run 2 of the 800's in my install............But I'm running an isolator in my setup.

I sold a few here in New Zealand for a while, they are fantastic. I have even used the baby 600 in my corvette as the only battery without any issues. I've passed that one on to my friend for his jetski and now use the 800 in the vette.
I just went to move the vette the other day as I hadn't driven it for a while, I realised I had made a monumental mistake by leaving the charger hooked up to the battery but no plugged in and obviously there is a small drain back through it, as such the battery was resting at 4.5v. I thought it was screwed as it took no current but as soon as a power supply was on it the voltage would go to whatever was set on the supply. I tried giving it bursts of 52v but still wouldn't do a thing, I left my supply on it for almost a week at 15.2v and it eventually came up to a rest of just under 10v, still woulnd't draw any current on the charger.
I then put a big load on it to try to do something, it worked enough that I could then get a charge going into it again, I now got my new desulfator on it and it's already almost back to full capacity.
So what I'm saying is, they kick ass!!!!!

This is good news. it just makes sense.

I also use a HC800 on my amp bench!

Check out the Stinger batteries too. They are very competitive against the Kinetiks!

Yes, indeed.

I have been curious about stinger vs kinetic myself and have conisdered one of them for the GT when it is done.

Odyssey should be in the Mix as well.

if you read the independant study done on them the stinger beats the kinetics in every way and the kinetics don't do as advertised.

no links?

When running an extra battery, do you need an isolator inline with it? Or can you just hook up the extra battery without any issues? I was thinking if I ran another battery, I would use a switch to prevent draining from my main battery. Idk if battery drain happens or not.

ttocs wrote:no links?

One of the guys fromm AAMP posted a link to it on here a while ago, I'll find it later if I am not feeling like crap.

lukeman269 wrote:When running an extra battery, do you need an isolator inline with it? Or can you just hook up the extra battery without any issues? I was thinking if I ran another battery, I would use a switch to prevent draining from my main battery. Idk if battery drain happens or not.

I used to use an isolator between an Optima Yellow and a Stinger Red, I believe it was the SPV1500, it was a few years ago so I am not positive which model it was. I really liked the isolator.

I have always read that any two batteries will always try to reach an equilibirum between each other and if one battery is stronger than the other, it will slowly drain the weaker battery. The isolator didn't allow that to happen. It is very easy to install, I would recommend it just for peace of mind.

dvnt88 wrote:

Shinju wrote:
So, no need for caps when you're running these things?

Nope - I'm running a KHC800 to a Power Core 15 (just for looks and had to have it in my TI install) to a TIBB12 to my TI 500.4 and TI 1000.2 and have never had a problem with the lights dimming and such, but make sure to do the big 3. AND I'm still using the factory 140amp alt under the hood.

I was thinking about running my two Xenons in the spring with a Kinetik HC2000 and a 50 Farad Stinger cap that I found for a good price, but if I can get away without spending the money on a cap, I would rather sink the money into the battery since it is pretty pricey.

Even with an isolator, could the powerful HC2000 negatively affect the stock battery I plan to leave under the hood?

Maybe I should just replace the stock battery with a Kinetik 2000 and still use a cap if the stock battery will still suffer.

Phoenixcolt wrote:

lukeman269 wrote:When running an extra battery, do you need an isolator inline with it? Or can you just hook up the extra battery without any issues? I was thinking if I ran another battery, I would use a switch to prevent draining from my main battery. Idk if battery drain happens or not.

I used to use an isolator between an Optima Yellow and a Stinger Red, I believe it was the SPV1500, it was a few years ago so I am not positive which model it was. I really liked the isolator.

I have always read that any two batteries will always try to reach an equilibirum between each other and if one battery is stronger than the other, it will slowly drain the weaker battery. The isolator didn't allow that to happen. It is very easy to install, I would recommend it just for peace of mind.

Thanks for clearing that up!

I have sold/used BOTH Kinetik & Stinger batteries for years.

I was sold on Kinetik for years & rarely had any faliures... Performance was good but not great.
After we picked up the Stinger batteries they blew me away. Performance was 5x better!!

Here is the INDEPENDENT studies for Stinger vs Kinetik:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... _SPV20.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... _SPV44.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... _SPV70.pdf

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... br_k60.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... br_k80.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... r_k140.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... r_k180.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... r_k200.pdf
http://www.stingerelectronics.com/thetr ... r_k240.pdf


Also regarding a Isolator:
These sound like a good idea & they have a purpose. I would NOT recommend them for daily use. Here's why:

Let's say you have a battery up front (starting/car) & one in the back.
Let's say that the battery in the back goes bad, ground disconnects or ground becomes loose.
Your voltage in the back will drop below 9v & your amps could possibly fry due to lack of voltage/amperage.
The problem with a isolator is you won't know something is wrong until it's too late.. Car & upfront electronics will work fine.

Also I've seen isolators go bad & the ground to the isolator disconnect (yes, poor installation) but it ruined the back batteries & ruined one amplifier. He was riding around for weeks (not too smart) but the 4ch amp still would play but the sub amp cuts on/off..

Added: It really comes down to the quality of isolator & the quality of installation. If the isolator works like it should, then it can be a useful tool in your system. One way to insure it is working correctly is add a remote voltage gauge upfront so you can monitor the voltage AFTER the isolator.