Phoenix Gold Phorum

Previously I was running a pg ti600.2 to a single 4ohm dvc type r. running at bridged at 2 ohms worked but i generated a lot of heat and fuses kept blowing, couple times a month. that amp is technically 'stable' at 2ohms but is not supposed to be run bridged 2 ohms for a long time.

I then bought the type r 2ohm dvc and had it connected at 4ohms bridged. perfect. the amp never heated up, fuses were never blown. I had it running like this for a month. I've played it at near max volumes with gain plenty up. No problems whatsoever. Now today the amp just shutoff while music was being played. (very low btw and not even anything bass heavy). I checked and saw that the fuse was blown (80A). I just put in another one. Started up the system.. amp never turned on. I check the fuse and its blown.

huh ????

Amp is dead

Check for shorts along your power wire as well, or at the terminals of the amp.

yeah... amp is dead.

showed some guy at a shop and he said the power supply was gone on the amp and that cant get parts to fix it.

is there a way to fix it or should i just buy another amp

95% of the parts on that amp are readily available. Most are very cheap as well.

that amp can be fixed by a few ppl on the phorum here if its the power supply........its not a total loss

The guy who looked at it told me it was the power supply.

I'm taking it to a local technician.. whats the max I should pay to get it fixed?

I would guess not more than $100, but that depends on the exact damage, and how the place charges (flat fee, or hourly).

On the right window.. where the 4 cylinders are.. I see that theres some white/clr substance (looks like semen lmao) that has leaked out of one of the cylinders and oozed out.

What is that?

Im guessing its the capacitors leaking? Is that something I could replace mytself

Can you post a photo of what you are talking about?

godisanatheist wrote:Im guessing its the capacitors leaking? Is that something I could replace mytself

if your good with an iron and have some skills or
if your a firefighter @ your day job ....these things can make your car go to a ash pile FAST

Here are the pics.. notice the white glue-like substance. there was a bit oozing out already when i bought it but i thought it was just glue.. meh.

most shops here said they couldnt fix it because its difficult to get parts but a local electronic technician said he should be able to.

That's silicone

is there a way i can check that its not working for sure with a multimeter?

To start with, put your DMM in ohm mode and measure the B+ and B- terminal. Check one way, then swap the leads and check again. Let us know your results.

oh I did that already.. it works

Multimeter in Ohm mode:
the correct way.. it goes all the way (not digital), the opposite way it goes half way. same thing with the speaker output terminals.

I just dropped it off to a tech waiting for call/estimate tmrw.. *fingers crossed*

the shop wanted you to buy a new amp from them, the tech wanted your biz as well.

:S

then whats wrong.. everything was good. now when I put in a new fuse and turn on the head unit which tries to turn on the amp it never turns on but the fuse blows right away. I checked wiring and all that.

Your amp is broke. There is no need to keep trying to turn it on. It won't fix itself.

Sounds like one shorted output transistor to me.

I didn't try it again.. I just wanted to tell ttocs what was up.

Got the amp back from repair shop. He said the amp is working perfectly fine. So I connected it again, new fuse and boom, it started working like magic. :/

fckuck im such a moron. I just realized I have the power wire running parallel with my RCA's...

godisanatheist wrote:fckuck im such a moron. I just realized I have the power wire running parallel with my RCA's...

So? This isn't generally a problem with today's higher voltage pre-amp outputs.