Phoenix Gold Phorum

Sup everyone, I found a 160 amp direct swap alternator for my car which was sweet but I have a few questions before install it hopefully later this week.

I understand the big 3 to be:

1. Battery to Chassis (ground)
2. Chassis to Block (ground)
3. Alternator to Battery (power)

When I am doing the alternator to battery and the two grounds with 1/0, I can just add a length of 1/0 to what already exists from the factory, correct? I ask because I just noticed that my existing power off the alternator goes right into my fuse box and I don't want to have to play with that...I haven't looked for the grounds yet.

why would that scare you? My mustang is the same way, and I upgraded the wire going into the fuses and fused it appropriatly as well. Mine was just a rign terminal that got attaced to a screw.

ttocs wrote:why would that scare you? My mustang is the same way, and I upgraded the wire going into the fuses and fused it appropriatly as well. Mine was just a rign terminal that got attaced to a screw.

It scares me because I don't want to dig or remove any parts, I historically have terrible luck when I work on my cars even though I am extremely meticulous and careful.

I may look a little closer to see if it is an easy change but if I can avoid it, I will.

What scares me is your power wire sitting on the ground terminal. As for adding the run to the alternator, yeah, you just want to add a new wire, not replace the factory one.

stipud wrote:What scares me is your power wire sitting on the ground terminal. As for adding the run to the alternator, yeah, you just want to add a new wire, not replace the factory one.

Haha, the power wire is usually stuck to the fuse box, I moved it to get a clean picture : ), sorry for the scare!

I upgraded that wire to the fuse box also because it works as a perfect play to tap later for constant power with just a ring terminal.

leave ALL the factory wiring intact.
Run a 0ga wire for power from your alt+ to the battery+ and fuse it if you want and do the others you describe
with 0ga as well. done!!!
I do not run a fuse on the + wire, but others here like to fuse it.

the factory wire normally has a fusable link, why wouldn't you WANT to put a fuse in? Total cost savings would be maybe $10 but what could the damage add up to if that wire were to short out?

ttocs wrote:the factory wire normally has a fusable link, why wouldn't you WANT to put a fuse in? Total cost savings would be maybe $10 but what could the damage add up to if that wire were to short out?

I have read before that some people do not fuse it but Maniac Electric recommends fusing it anyway so I was planning on it...plus I already have an ANL fuseholder which won't cost anything extra : ).

Fuse it, if you don't want a car like my old cavalier...

as installer I have seen many examples of why you want to fuse a power wire from the black line that burned the carpet up and cut it in half from front to back, or under the hood when the battery shifted from a small front end tap that wasn't enough to set of the airbags but was enough to move the wire over to the headers....

What do you guys think, 200 amp ANL fuse from alternator to battery and battery to amps? It's a 160 amp alternator.

Phoenixcolt wrote:What do you guys think, 200 amp ANL fuse from alternator to battery and battery to amps? It's a 160 amp alternator.

don't know maybe peak`` sorry i have not played with your set up

what is the combined currents on the fuses for your amps? Take that and consider maybe another 30-40 amps for the stock accesories and you will have your number.

Thanks, I been out of the game for a while, I forgot that amp fuse rating was what I should go by, I was thinking about it from the alternator side.

I will be running an X1200.1 and an X200.4. The 200.4 will not be maxed out by any account but the 1200.1 will be set to about 1000 watts. The fuse ratings are 120A and 100A on those two amps. Should I go with a 250A fuse? Seems like a lot especially since the alternator would never be able to even put out that kind of current besides in a very negative situation : )...but if 250 is the way I should go, that's what I will do.

yes while your alt will probably never reach that output, you do not want to limit it by going to small. Using the 200 amp that you mentioned might mean if you have it cranked, and then turn on some lights that it could blow. The fuse is there to protect the cable, not the alt, it is internally regulated. 250 should be ok I would think.

Cool, thanks for everyone's input...I am getting closer to starting this dang install every day, just trying to get all my ducks in a row. Every couple days I realize something else I will need to pick up . I wanted to install the alternator Thursday or Friday but now I will have to wait until I get a couple things in the mail.

I can start some other things in the mean time but there isn't a whole lot that won't disable my music which I don't want to do until the last possible moment since this will probably take place over quite a few weekends.

the little details of any install can kill you. One thing I have enjoyed about needing to take soo much time on my install due to my health is that I am very complete on all my plans when I start them. The amp rack I just made was designed in my head and then other stuff was added as it was built and I thought about it more. It got held up a little when I started to realize the mq430 was alittle less power then I wanted but the 1200.1 will actually make it easier to mount so that is cool. The part that I hate about it is that I now have a bedroom full of parts for the install from 20+pairs of rca connectors, to banana plugs and tech flex and a big ole box of wire....

ttocs wrote:the little details of any install can kill you. One thing I have enjoyed about needing to take soo much time on my install due to my health is that I am very complete on all my plans when I start them. The amp rack I just made was designed in my head and then other stuff was added as it was built and I thought about it more. It got held up a little when I started to realize the mq430 was alittle less power then I wanted but the 1200.1 will actually make it easier to mount so that is cool. The part that I hate about it is that I now have a bedroom full of parts for the install from 20+pairs of rca connectors, to banana plugs and tech flex and a big ole box of wire....

Haha, I hear that.

You want 250 between the battery and amp, but 200 or lower is fine between the alternator and battery.

not sure I agree there. If the alt can't supply the current to the batt, how does it then supply it to the amp? His amps can draw 220A if he has it cranked, what do you think is accesories draw?

ttocs wrote:not sure I agree there. If the alt can't supply the current to the batt, how does it then supply it to the amp? His amps can draw 220A if he has it cranked, what do you think is accesories draw?

An alternator can only put out so much current. If the amps draw more amperage than the alternator can provide, then it is supplemented from the battery.

agreed but since he already upgraded the alt should be able to handle the extra need and should have an internal regulator to control it. But the way you suggested I am afriad will leave him replacing fuses at night when the current loads increase with the need for light if he turns it up. The fuse is there to protect the wire, not the alt and the alt has its own protection methods built in.

Now I have heard HO alt will not last as long as a regular one just because of its harder use, not sure if that is true or not but the old alt expert I went to in phoenix to rebuild/upgrade mine says he keeps really busy replacing the HO alts in all the police and ambulances.

Who else has an opinion?

I am working on the big 3 today, you guys think it will be a bad thing if I only do alternator to battery, and battery to chassis?

I can't get to the chassis to block tonight.

I ahve a few other questions but will need to sign back on later, thanks in advance.

it will not hurt anything, more is better of course but just 2/3 will not cause problems.