Phoenix Gold Phorum

I'm going to install the 15f c.a.p. into my 06 is350 and have a quick question . I went to the site and got the wire diagram off of it and on the large relay (stinger SGP32)is says it requires a 5ohm 5w resistor from the battery side terminal to one of the smaller studs . Ok no prob but I cant find one anywhere . I'm assuming I have to make one ,but before I did I wanted some feedback . Who has more experience with this ? Is it needed ? Can i use something else? Options?

just charge it using a test light. connect the neg. wire to the neg terminal, run a probe from the test light to the positive terminal and the other probe from the test light goes into the pos. wire, wait until the light is very dim then your done. Plug it into the pos. terminal and tighten it up.

I highly recommend against bypassing the resistor in your install and using a test light. Doing so could damage both your cap and your car.

I have an older Alumapro 5 farad cap and if its anything like mine this type of cap is installed in a way that its charge dissipates after a short amount of time every time the power to your system is cut. These are not like standard caps that only need to be charged once and are then wired to have constant power fed to them for the remainder of the install life..., a relay is put in place to cut power and keep the cap from draining your battery after the car is turned off, and therefore must be completely recharged after sustained periods of downtime, hence the necessity of a resistor to avoid a large shock to your system / relay / cap. A one time charge using a test light will only help in the very first power up in this case..

A surplus store or custom install shop should have what you need available, and if not there's always Google. Best of luck!

I thought I recalled something about that but didn't want to speak up when I was not sure.

To make things easier,
toss the paper weight in the garbage(which is the cap) and drop a batt in the back along with the big 3 in done 0ga.
this is a better choice IMO.

3.00 at any surplus can get you a resistor- might have to run a couple together, but it works

this one could be a little harder to find because of the wattage but the shack might have it.

I have several of these caps- it hard to find a single resistor, and alumapro wont sell it to you, but you can twist a couple together and get what you need- radio shack has almost nothing any more, but most places have radio electronics shops still

Stryker wrote:To make things easier,
toss the paper weight in the garbage(which is the cap) and drop a batt in the back along with the big 3 in done 0ga.
this is a better choice IMO.

This advice is presumptuous and doesn't help to answer any of the OP's questions. The only thing this interruption "accomplishes" is to help perpetuate misinformation on a complex topic. Please stop!

The PG 15 farad powercore had the relay and resistor circuit inside the case. I never used the Alumapro version, but had always assumed it was the same. As has been recommended, DO NOT use a test light for your intended purpose. At best, that is a shade tree approach to charging a typical electrolytic capacitor! The C.A.P. is a different beast altogether and is intended to be charged and discharged every time it is used. That's why the resistor is used as part of the relayed circuit.

There isn't anything wrong with charging the cap via a test-light or a resistor. It isn't meant for a permanent install and would be to lower the instant amperage drain of charging such a large power storage.

As for the resistor, I have almost always found some at radio shack or fry's electronics. If you are crazy into the Honda mod scene, the injector resistor pack out of the older Hondas or the 4th gen prelude is @ 10ohms and 20watts x4.

dedly is right, it does charge, and discharge everytime it powers up, the 5farad caps do not need the resistor, but the 15's are dealing with a lot of energy, and not have 3$ worth of resistors, is just ridiculous-

Thanks Guys ! My issue wasn't too much as initial charge but with the permanant install . From the diagram off of thier website showed the reststor off of the postive from the batt to the 12v side of the relay's activation . It was wired to be a negative trigger off of another relay . It just confused me cause I have never seen an application like that . I have considered adding another battery but i figure this would save on space . I'm running a Zx1200.1 as of now but eventually will put in my Ms2125 to my focal k2 power 3ways and my mps2500 to my 2 L7 12s . Any feedback will be well taken ! Thanks again !

Stryker wrote:To make things easier,
toss the paper weight in the garbage(which is the cap) and drop a batt in the back along with the big 3 in done 0ga.
this is a better choice IMO.

I laughed out loud when I read that!

Probably not the kindest thing to say, but it is a great suggestion.

As said, no need to pre-charge it with a test light if you wire it up correctly.
Resistors are plentiful and easy to find...partsexpress.com, mouser.com, digikey.com, even ebay...
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vis ... zaPixB0%3d