Phoenix Gold Phorum

I've been reading around and figured I should ask the jedi's here:
I'm about to get this amp fixed, and figured i should refinish it before I send it off (to reduce the probability of me screwing something up during assembly).

Is Tal-strip II ok to use to strip an MPS-2500? Someone painted it with automotive paint, and I want to get that and the white powder underneath it off.

TIA!

Refinish after it is fixed, so you don't have to worry about shipping damage.

I have 2 2125s I've been stripping slowly. I wish I sent it to Mhyde71 to do it. I'm not big into paint/finish work, so what should take Matt an hour or so has taken me quite a few weekends and am still not done.....

Eric, I had contemplated that, I'm anxious to get it done, but I guess I'll show some restraint, and wait till I get it back.

But is tal-strip II ok to use, or will it eat the metal?

I have had some great luck stripping stuff with a simple citrus cleaner called citristrip or something. Doesn't give off bad fumes either, I use it in the base ment and it smells like oranges but have not had a problem with it yet.

But as he said get it fixed first or its basically like putting down hardwood flooring before the walls or ceiling is finished and painted. Sure you can do it but.....

yeah, i'm a contractor by trade so A)know what you mean and B)I've learned that some of the non industrial "home owner" supplies aren't bad. I didn't think the citris stuff would work for this application (But I know it does a hell of good job on wood with urethane, latex, and oil paints!)

Has anyone here done a thermal paint, like Eclipse from Alsacorp? I really want to do black/white eclipse with a candy orange/manderin overtop. Looks black when cool, and changes to white(candy orange) when it gets warm/hot! check'm out at alsacorp.com. they actually have a ton of cool custom paints.

Anyway, food for thought.

saw that paint used on some tv show but didn't pay much attention to it. I wonder how long the paint lasts or if they held up as long as the hypercolor shirts of the early 90s

soak it in pure acetone, it will come off..

to remove the powder under the auto paint... you really need strong stripper like dimethyl-clorine (B17)
or aircraft stripper.... getting into those fins w/o doing some kind of paste or dip you will be at it for weeks. powder is tough... and dont believe that you'll just get powder off with just anything. I strip (and shoot) powder coating for living and i have found the best quickest is something called B17 (benco sales) (distributor: columbiacoatings.com) 5 gal's for like $130 shipped, thats what i normally get, but thinking about going for the 30 gal here pretty soon, as they offer free shipping on the 30 gal jug.

SAY, If i go for the 30 Gal, would you like me to put 5 gal in a jug and ship it out to you...? in theory you could replace back into jug and ship back to me when youre done... but were having to cover the "haz-mat" fees to/fro.... but i do have the 5 gal jugs that the last 6 orders i have gotten have come in... so in theory i could ship it, and safely too.

Otherwise, if you try sandblasting youll struggle with the powder and risk compromising the sink. and if you use this B17 or any other chemical that is designed to strip powder coating- BE CAREFULL not to leave the aluminum in it (or under it) for more than 15-20 min... that stuff will eat aluminum for breakfast.

or mail it to me and i will strip and sand blast and make it perfectly ready for paint that you want to use.... prolly wouldnt be more than 40$ to strip and blast it (40/hr). prolly could get it up to snuff for painting in about an hour.

m