Phoenix Gold Phorum

Hello all.
I am in the middle of an installation of my first system(even though i'm 38) of any kind.
The car is a 2002 Subaru WRX. I am looking to install a modest system with decent SQ.
So here is what I have so far:
Head unit is a JVC KWAVX740 DVD/Touch screen
Jensen Power760 4ch amp 75w rms x 4 @4ohms
Jensen Power1050 Mono amp 325w rms @ 4ohms
PG RSD6.5CS 6.5 for the front doors
PG RSD525 for the rear doors
10" Obcon sub with sub enclosure ported through the ski pass in rear seat
I have used ramaat, ensolite on the floor, doors and sides
I have ran all new 14awg wiring to the doors, RCAs for front, rear and sub
I am going to be running 4awg power wire for the amps to a fused marine distribution box that will also power
the relays for the amp remotes and two fans(distro box has 3 aux ATC fused power leads)
All the power and ground wire for the amps will be 4awg.

So, first do any of you see anything I should look at or change? Keep in mind that all this is already purchased so I am not looking to spend alot more money unless it is critical. I am also not here to get validation for the purchases I already made. If something has to be replaced, I am more than willing to replace it with something else.
Also I have been reading alot on the Basic Car Audio Electronics(BCAE?) website trying to get a handle on all this.

Second, I was wondering if it was possible to only run the mid bass of the rear component system off the passive xover and not the tweets? I keep reading that I should or I shouldn't, just looking for a definitive answer. I really just don't want or need tweets in the rear. I am only installing the rear mids for when my son watches movies other wise it will mostly be off or turned down.

Lastly, I know my amps and sub are of less than stellar quality but this is just the beginning and I want to see if I even want to spend more later for better quality subs/amps.

I welcome any advice you all could give me and I would like to say I went with PG speakers as I had some 5.25s back in the 90's that were absolutely amazing and I am hoping these new ones will be the same!
Thanks

the first thing i noticed, was the 6.5's...they will wont fit behind the factory grill. if you want to cut it out, they will be fine. if you want to have a factory grill, you will have to find the rsd6's (and even then you will want to grind down the extra plastic on the inside of the panel

other then that, everything should work fine!

you can use the passive crossover like that. in fact, i would run the front set active (if you have a way to crossover the tweeters) and just run the rear 5.25's on deck power

Ahh thanks! Hmm I thought the 6.5s would work since I got the Iaperformance 6.5 adapters for my subaru, they better fit since they market them as fitting with the factory door panels! Here is what I have: http://www.iaperformance.com/product_in ... cts_id=243 We'll see I guess.
If I have to shave some plastic off so be it I guess.

As for the running the rear off the HU, would that mean just the front rca outputs would be used and not the rear on my 4ch amp? I am not sure on the active crossover? My amp has high and low pass filter dials on it, would that be what I need? Also I looked at my speakers and they are RDS6.5CS and RDS5cs. If I control the rears with the HU will the 5cs be ok, sound wise, with out being on a crossover?
What ever you think would make the best sound I am willing to give it a shot. I am just not sure on setting up all the dials.

the ring kit you bought will make the mounting diameter fine, but it will move the speaker out about a quarter inch, which will make the cone hit the inside of the door panel. what most people do for that, is cut the subaru grill out of the door panel, and retrofit their own. (if i happen to be wrong...sweet! but i dont think i am )

in the "active" scenario you would only use the front rca outs.

the dvd player has built in highpass crossover that you would run for the rear 5.25's (still use the passive crossovers) you would want to set it higher (like 100hz or higher) since they would be getting limited power. this allows them to make better use of the power they do have.

for the fronts, to run active you would need a active crossover that can go into the 4000-8000 range for the tweeters. (this could be via your deck, amp, or a external crossover unit)

or you could just run it like a 4 channel amp like a normal person and not worry about any of that!

you should get good sound either way!

Well I really appreciate the help Bfowler!
I hope you are wrong on the speakers not fitting since I am not down with cutting up my door panels! With my luck you will be right.

I am unsure what I should do, I have already run all the wiring for the speakers and all the RCAs. I am just wondering if the SQ will be better doing it the way
you recommended ? Will my amp actually push both sets good enough or would it be better your way with my amp bridged to 2x190 @ 4ohms pushing the fronts?
I need to make a decision soon as I have to get this car back together by the 9th of sept. I kinda like the fact that I can turn off the internal amp on the HU though.

I 2nd everything Brain has said. While most people will say your amps are crappy I'd say as long as you're not trying to get more from them than what they can give they will sound like every other class A/B amp out there.

HAHA Yeah, I knew they weren't the top of the line or even middle of the line when I bought them. I just figured they may be plenty for me and if not I would replace them down the road. I mean they were less than $200 for both amps and I had spent a fortune on my car mechanical wise already. I have had crappy speakers and HU in all of my cars for so long, this will probably sound amazing to me. I am just looking for decent SQ in an all around decent package. My only other concern is the loudness as my car is extremely loud.

i might get blasted by audiophiles for saying this, but i think the install is WAY more important the gear used. even mid-fi can sound great if installed in a good environment.

deadening your doors and good high pass crossovers should go a long way toward making the most of everything.

since you already ran the wires, and your deck DOES have a internal amp switch, i would just run the amp in the 4 channel mode you originally planned. if after a few months of listening you want more front stage, you can always rewire and switch.


on last bit of advice on the wrx's, is the parcel shelf panel...if you didn't already work on it...i can almost guarantee that when your sub starts getting rowdy it will rattle.

i dug up some pics from one i did that might give you some pre-install insight. i put 6's (not 6.5's) in this car and still had to carve the back of the panels out.

some other tips...are you can re use the metal mounting tab from the factory tweeters and attach the rsd one to it. to my ears, the rsd tweeter is a little bright when its high in the door like that. so you might use the -2db switch in the crossover, or even use a hot glue gun, and cover the tweeter in some fleece.

Those were not the pics I was hoping for. LOL oh well guess I will be cutting on the dang panel. I just want it to look stock.
I will do that with the tweets although my wrx never had the tweets, so no brackets. I did buy some from that IAperformance place though.

I have already used Raamat and ensolite on the floor, doors and sides. I did completely forgot about the parcel shelf...damn one more to do!
I will just get it hooked up in 4ch. At least that way if I ever go a different way, all the cables are already ran.

Thanks for all the help and tips hopefully I can get this all sounding right!

maybe you could fabricate some kind of spacer for the panel to move it out instead of cutting it?

maybe...I am going to look for anyway besides cutting first. If no other options I will just cut it! I am not looking forward to using more raamat, my fingers are cut all to hell already. I can only imagine how much noise would be coming from that parcel shelf.

OrdnanceCorp wrote:maybe...I am going to look for anyway besides cutting first. If no other options I will just cut it! I am not looking forward to using more raamat, my fingers are cut all to hell already. I can only imagine how much noise would be coming from that parcel shelf.

I fucking hate rattles... thats the biggest pain in the as to get rid of

Maybe a spacer for the door panel would work? I really am only concerned with keeping it stock appearing. If I have to cut as you did, then that is no big deal as long as it looks stock.

Now, I just have to figure out how to get that damn parcel shelf out! I definitely don't want that making a bunch of noise once the woofer is firing below it.

my question is you said abover relayS for amp remotes and fans. how many relays are you planning on using. cutting the panel and makin look stock will be a challenge.

how are you cutting yourself on sound damping? Installed for over 10 yrs and I can think of all kinds of crap in the shop I hurt myself(and a couple time the other guy hurt me) but it never involved damping. If you don't have a roller just go get a towel and roll it up nice and tight into a tube and ten you can work that into the edges.

I was going to use 1 relay for the amp remote leads and 1 for both fans.
It seemed to just be my fingertips that were getting papercut type cuts. I didn't have a roller so maybe that would have helped.

well I thought I would update the speaker situation. I installed the 6.5s in the front doors with the adapter rings stacked. I didn't have to cut the panel since the previous owner had already cut the top half as in Bfowlers pics above. It ended up being a perfect fit. I had received extended plastic pins for the panel that would hold it out a little further so everything worked out. Unfortunately I still have to trim the raised ring on the rear doors but otherwise I am happy with the install kit as it had everything I needed and the doorpanels still look stock with the 6.5"s in there.
Now I just have to make a mount for the amps and wire them up.

nice! glad it worked out!