Phoenix Gold Phorum

i recently bought an m44 and a mps2240......cosmetically,they are on the rough side,so i removed all the sheetmetal and stripped and primed for paint......i noticed the smaller black caps were leaking in both amps......the big ones look dry,should i replace them all

HELL YES.............

if you have metal out/isolated/removed.... i do powder coating and can do custom or OEM color matching with these pg amps... just check out my fb link in sig for some past works.

just lettying you know... powder > paint!

are there a preferred set of caps.....or can i get em anywhere

So long as they spec out to oem or better, and fit under chassis...you should be good...do search, i think there are links for or thread for all caps to specific amps in here somewhere...
Maybe even have direct links to digikey, mouser, etc in the thread even...odk...been a while since i looked/saw it.

M

where is our cap expert now?

i found the link for digi key for the black caps.....not having much luck with the blue ones.....10000uf

The big blue caps are not prone to leaking. It's best to leave them alone, unless you are skilled and experienced in changing them. There's a real chance of damaging the board if you try to change them, because they are snap-on type of caps.

that would be the first time I think I have ever seen anyone on here not get a recomendation to NOT replace the caps....

ttocs wrote:that would be the first time I think I have ever seen anyone on here not get a recomendation to NOT replace the caps....

I have been trying desperately for a long time to try and convince people NOT to replace their rail caps.

I have fixed MANY amps in which people tried to replace the rail caps and ended up damaging their amplifiers.

Replacing the rail caps is very difficult compared to the input supply caps.

I did not know that........

I´m rebuilding a M44 or should I say resurrect. I just need to confirm the value and location of the smaller caps.

C25/28=47uF
C104/204/304/404/15=33uF
C506=1uF
C502/508/512/513//31/32/4/3/10/16=10uF
C35=100uF

?

IsakAlexander wrote:I´m rebuilding a M44 or should I say resurrect. I just need to confirm the value and location of the smaller caps.

C25/28=47uF
C104/204/304/404/15=33uF
C506=1uF
C502/508/512/513//31/32/4/3/10/16=10uF
C35=100uF

?

Unless they are obviously damaged, you don't need to replace those caps. Only the 16V 2,200uF caps are the problem.

I have currently 6 M44's and another 2 route 66 amps in my collection....

So that makes 8 M44 boards.... on none of them i replaced the big rail caps.....

just replace the 4 ps caps, and the two resitors of 91 ohm by a 5w model and place

them 1/2 inch away from the board..... replace also the little caps that have the isolation

shrinked......

please check conductivity of the via's before you solder the new(ps) caps in......very important....

35mm will fit under the cover board.... 40mm will be too high anyway.....


good luck and Eric will help you further with this........

conductivity of the via's ? Yes I check the resistance between upper board trace and leg on each after soldering. Only had one tracelift close to the resistor area.

I´ve recapped and restoring vintage amplifiers for a quite a while now so I´m giving this the usual treatment.
Already changed all of them for nichicon fg except for the two 10 000uf.
I need to know the value/locations are correct is because previous owner had done all sorts of damage and "repair" to it.

Can anyone confirm?

IsakAlexander wrote:conductivity of the via's ? Yes I check the resistance between upper board trace and leg on each after soldering. Only had one tracelift close to the resistor area.

I´ve recapped and restoring vintage amplifiers for a quite a while now so I´m giving this the usual treatment.
Already changed all of them for nichicon fg except for the two 10 000uf.
I need to know the value/locations are correct is because previous owner had done all sorts of damage and "repair" to it.

Can anyone confirm?

yes, conductivity of the via's..... it is better to check that before soldering in new caps.... if nescessairy, you can repair a damaged via

with for example a piece of desolder wick.....

I should open a M44 to check with the values of those components......

Much appreciated if you could.

I also have a SA 3.0x. Did change the four 1000uF caps but a small ceramic capacitor is damaged, C33, anyone who knows the value?

C33 is the same as c32, 35 and 39.


Those 4 caps you replaced where the rail caps...you need to replace the b+ caps as well (they will show leakage once you remove them.

Are you sure, they are different from the type that usually leaks. The paper underneath show no sign of fluid.

IsakAlexander,

i will try to take a look tomorrow to answer you're questions.....

IsakAlexander wrote:Much appreciated if you could.

I also have a SA 3.0x. Did change the four 1000uF caps but a small ceramic capacitor is damaged, C33, anyone who knows the value?

i have one sa 3.0x, white version, REV B board.........

so, it should be the same value as C32... both ceramic caps are between the rail caps and the biggest torroid, correct ???

there is written "104" on both(C32 and C33).....

so this should be 100000 pF, or 100nF..... this i'm not 100%sure......

other members please correct if it's not wright.........

C32 is a 0.1uF / MFD 100nF 100000pF (100v?), as for the b+ capacitors...they do leak or they have at one point. Mine didn't show any leakage but once i removed them the signs where there.

I stated a thread here on restoring a sx3.0, i already finished it up and forgot to add recent pics. Will do so later tonight.

IsakAlexander wrote:I´m rebuilding a M44 or should I say resurrect. I just need to confirm the value and location of the smaller caps.

C25/28=47uF
C104/204/304/404/15=33uF
C506=1uF
C502/508/512/513//31/32/4/3/10/16=10uF
C35=100uF

?

i will confirm the values....

so,

C25/28 are 47mF/16V

C104/204/304/404/15 are 33mF/16V

C506 is 1mF/50V

C502/508/512/513/31/32/4/3/10/16 are 10mF/35V

C35 is 100mF/25V

C29/C30 are the big blue railcaps , 15000mF/35V/105°C, 35mm high

C1/C1A/C2/C2A are the ps caps 2200mF/16V/105°C, 32mm high

R33/R34 are the 15V drop down resistors.....

hope to help you with this info, as promised......

personally i only replaced the 4 ps caps, and both resistors R33/R34 by a 5W model, 1/2inch distance

from the board....i only replaced the little caps where the isolation was shrinked, mostly by the heat

of both R33/R34 (so in most cases C31/C32, and C25/C28, only if nescessairy......)


Every other component what is fine, you replace will not give you a better sound, only an extra possibility

to damage the board or a via..... in other words, just leave them alone !!!!!!!


If you wanna work on you're soldering skills, get some where a broken board from a TV or something and

go ahead on that, not on you're amps...........

Several of the smaller caps were dry and measured below spec. I think it will be quite noticeable if the caps in the crossover section change value thus changing the crossover point.

I wouldn't call myself a "beginner" when it comes to soldering. A rookie on car stereo sort of but been slinging the iron for 20years or so. And the nichicon fine gold caps looks very nice with the circuit board.

Thank you for confirmed placement.

IsakAlexander wrote:Several of the smaller caps were dry and measured below spec. I think it will be quite noticeable if the caps in the crossover section change value thus changing the crossover point.

I wouldn't call myself a "beginner" when it comes to soldering. A rookie on car stereo sort of but been slinging the iron for 20years or so. And the nichicon fine gold caps looks very nice with the circuit board.

Thank you for confirmed placement.

i never called you a "beginner". even how fine i work with my soldering and desoldering station of Weller, sometimes i still rip a little trace witch

i have to repair......the point is, the less components you have to replace, the better......

like i said before, i have currently 8 M44 boards.... i never had to replace all those caps, unless the isolation was shrinked....

Decide you're self what to do with you're own amps.... my opinion, the most important are, the 4 ps caps and the drop down resistors......